Splitboard.com Forums

The World's first exclusive splitboard discussion forums






It is currently Sat Apr 19, 2014 12:38 am

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 9 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: tapering cut
PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2005 4:16 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2005 4:13 pm
Posts: 4
I have a wide board that I would like to split. Has anyone ever added taper to a board while cutting?
Figure a slight angle with two cuts meeting at the tip should do the trick? Am I overlooking any obvious problems? Sounds straight forward to me.

thanks


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2005 10:56 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2004 3:45 am
Posts: 124
Location: San Juan Islands, WA
I've been thinking of doing that on my next split,don't know why it wouldn't work.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2005 10:56 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2004 3:45 am
Posts: 124
Location: San Juan Islands, WA
I've been thinking of doing that on my next split,don't know why it wouldn't work.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2005 11:06 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2004 11:31 am
Posts: 220
Location: ak
I've been pondering this one since the trees got good this year. Adding taper to a DIY splitboard seems like an ideal way to get a split Fish/Khyber style board with the shape desired and the length required. Yeah, I figure to mark center then snap a line about 7mm to each side, skil saw to the tip, then the other side. Simple right? I've got a Palmer big light 174 that may be perfect...it's got one more resort trip to do, then sliceroo. Fiddled, I'm glad I'm not the only freak thinking about this crap, thanks for posting.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2005 11:08 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2004 11:31 am
Posts: 220
Location: ak
Damn Fiddled, you've started a movement here.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2005 2:43 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2004 10:10 pm
Posts: 24
Location: reno
i just did this w/ a BMC i just split. it was a 164 which was burton's wide version of that board. i didn't need the extra width so i removed the extra cm from the center and added a bit of taper. cutting out the middle cm let me dodge most of the center inserts in the 3 hole pattern which was nice. to add the taper i took the board to an edge sander at work. if you know what one is, it's the perfect tool for this job. it let me work the seam edge of the board while keeping it perpendicular to the base. this is especially important on the nose and tail. anything other than perpendicular makes the seam on the nose or tail either splay apart or vis versa. i imagine you could accomplish the same thing by cutting a taper in a board but you'd need to be very careful. it could easily turn into a hard to fix problem. as for the board, it rides great! i only have 2 days on it so far but i love the taper. i can feel the difference that it makes. especially in keeping me in line w/ my fall line.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2005 11:12 am 
Offline

Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2004 11:31 am
Posts: 220
Location: ak
The thing I've been wondering about is impact on the flex, especially twisting, torsional flex. What do you think, will the new, tapered, narrower split gain resistance to twisting because it's not so wide or will it lose resistance to flex because it's lost board material?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2005 1:57 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2004 10:10 pm
Posts: 24
Location: reno
i notice a slight change when i flex the board at home but can't feel any difference when i'm riding it. i have a 162 bmc for a resort board and really like its light weight and stiff flex. it has a carbon "i-beam" down the center of the board to put it on the stiff side of the spectrum. i bought another bmc to split (164 wide) because it seemed like a good light weight candidate. i didn't like the "wide" aspect so i cut that out of the middle in addition to adding taper, like i had said. all this mess'n around took out quite a bit of material yet had negligible impact on the flex, linear or torsional, when i compare it to my resort ride. especially when this board relies on that "i-beam" right down the middle. if you were to split a normal wood core board i can't imagine adding taper would have much if any additional impact on the flex pattern. although, i guess that depends on how crazy you get w/ the taper. i'd say go for it! i had fun doing it and now i have another good board in my quiver. i guess the down side of it is that it's hard to have the same kind of foresight to what you'll end up with like you do when your simply splitting a board.

btw- for those who might wonder, the "i-beam" isn't really an i-beam. it's just a strip of carbon fiber down the middle of the board on the top and bottom of the core. i was worried that it was a true i-beam and that i might end up removing something crucial.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 11:21 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2004 11:31 am
Posts: 220
Location: ak
:D Thanks Brett, I like the way you think. :twisted:


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 9 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  








Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group