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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 6:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2006 10:00 pm
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Location: Portlandia, Orygun...
Mooses wrote:
Lots of good info in here. I agree with: dripping wax on the board, ironing it in well, scraping A LOT to the point of almost no noticeable surface or "extra" wax, brushing it out and then corking it. I think it's kinda relaxing....startup some tunes, crack a beer and heat up the iron!!



It's a Zen... I take my time and enjoy it.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 7:29 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2007 1:12 am
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Location: PNW Hood Canal
Here are some of the tools I use for waxing, although I have a bunch of different scrapers, waxes and some burr stones and cork blocks that I did not photograph.
Metal scraper (be careful not to dig into your base), plastic scraper and bastard file (note the tape wrap around the short handle, I use this as a file guide when I do my base edge)
<a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh192/Mumbles24/?action=view¤t=DSCF1359.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh192/Mumbles24/DSCF1359.jpg" border="0" alt="scrapers and bastard file"></a>
Edging tool (I use this for the sidewall edge) and buffing pad
<a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh192/Mumbles24/?action=view¤t=DSCF1360.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh192/Mumbles24/DSCF1360.jpg" border="0" alt="buffing pad and edge tool"></a>
I have an old clothing iron and a hole less waxing iron. I have several types of wax and numerous other metal and plastic scrapers of varying lengths and flexibilities.

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Mojo 171 / ST 178 / C-Split 165 / DIY Johan 162
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 Post subject: SO... if there is wax on the base...?
PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:38 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 2:43 am
Posts: 35
Location: Mt. Baker
if i do leave wax on the base... say, thicker than 'just in the pores', are my skins gonna tear off the wax and be screwed up because they're covered in wax and not adhesive anymore?

whenever i wax my boards, i always leave a bit more on then 'just in the pores'... is that so wrong? or is it wrong for splitting/skinning...

thanks


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 Post subject: Waxing
PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:00 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2007 1:12 am
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Location: PNW Hood Canal
BakerShredda, I'm not sure what the benefit of having more wax on the base of your board other than storing it in the off season. If that is how you like to ride your board then that is fine, personal preference. The extra wax on your base other than protectively in the pores will be uneven and thereby alter the interaction between the base and the snow. I guess this could be minimal or significant depenging on the wax job.

For over 20 years I have been waxing and riding solid boards. This is my first year on a split. I do not think that the excess wax, unless it is a layer with cracks, gaps or holes, would be pulled off by skins adhesive. I have two splits, one with voile skins one with burton skins, neither are that adherent to the board to make me think it would pull your wax off. That being said, I don't have any experience with a thick wax job.

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 Post subject: Re: SO... if there is wax on the base...?
PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2004 7:22 am
Posts: 255
Location: The Kootenays
BakerShredda wrote:
if i do leave wax on the base... say, thicker than 'just in the pores', are my skins gonna tear off the wax and be screwed up because they're covered in wax and not adhesive anymore?

whenever i wax my boards, i always leave a bit more on then 'just in the pores'... is that so wrong? or is it wrong for splitting/skinning...

thanks

last time i left a bit o' wax on the board, it pulled off with the skins...and i had to use a hairdryer to get the wax off my skins...better off to scrape yer board down to the ptex.

cheers,
gary

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:03 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 1:43 pm
Posts: 439
Location: Western Washington
Here is an axium to wax by; Thin wins, thick sticks. This applies to board to snow, and wax to skins.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:00 pm
Posts: 28
I know this is not the accepted norm but for years, I apply a thin, but complete hot wax on both skis and now splitboard, no scrape, and give 'er.

No glue/skin issues so far.

No mess on the garage floor.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:37 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:14 am
Posts: 36
Location: AK
"Speaking of clean, if the base is any way dirty, clean it first with a good base cleaner (environmentally safe citrus, or mild soap and water) the dry completely".

Base cleaner removes dirt and grime but also any preexisting wax. Boards and ski bases become "seasoned" with multiple waxings. This built up wax makes your board faster over time. Wipe with a dry rag, and then to really clean your base and not remove any old wax try waxing your board and scraping it while it is still warm, then rewax with the finish wax.


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 Post subject: Waxing tools.
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 12:38 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:59 am
Posts: 13
Location: San Diego
I did a little waxing this weekend before the game. Here are the tools I use.

Image

I found that an older iron from a thrift shop works best if you are not up for spending $30 US for a wax specific iron. The auto shutoff feature on newer irons is a pain. Look for one with as few holes as possible. The black scraper is a small piece of lexan like material you can pick up at a hardware stores. All together everything including all temp wax cost about $28.



Also If you are new to waxing, there is a great tutorial on youtube here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDRoKCAFtX8[/img]


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 Post subject: Re: Waxing boards and skin performance?
PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 11:04 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 10:06 pm
Posts: 2
Location: Jay Peak/Upstate NY
DISCLAIMER: This is how I do it; there may be other methods this is what i've picked up.

always make sure your board is room temp. before waxing, you need to let the pores in the base open up.

the biggest thing I've seen is people apply too much wax when they drip the wax onto the board. You only need about 3 passes at a constant drip the length of the board.

Once this is done take a slow pass over each "trail" of dots, letting the dots fully melt underneath the heating element (key to this is to pass slow enough that the wax spreads the entire length of the element; though not so slow that you're melting the base p-tex; and if thats happening you're moving wwaayyy too slow). There should be about an inch trail behind the iron of melting wax that looks wet, that is the wax entering the pores and is GOOD.

Any wax that doesnt go into the pores of the board is UNNECESSARY.

Scrape any excess wax off(should only take a couple of passes with a sharp plastic scraper; use some sand paper to add a new edge or pass it over a belt real quick). The less wax you used in the beginning saves you time in scraping, which usually takes me the longest.

After that use a structure brush, and polish out the base.

Use a scotchbrite pad and polish some more with that.

Base should be shiny and ready to go.

Also; reasoning behind different temp. waxes:
When the snow gets colder forms into "sharper" crystals that grab at the base of the board. Consequently colder temp. wax is harder and prevents this crystals from digging into the board and better facilitates the ball bearing effect the we all enjoy so much. Also where the different structures come from when adding them to the base of the snowboard, like a tire tread sheds water in different directions for different desired effects.


again this is the way i learned to wax at the mountain i work at and when I started working in a shop states away they taught me the same way.

happy riding


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 Post subject: Re: Waxing boards and skin performance?
PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 12:18 am 
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Joined: Thu May 28, 2009 2:36 pm
Posts: 178
Location: Bellingham
corking after you brush is actually not the best thing--it can smooth out any left over wax and turn your base into a suction cup, as opposed to the slightly rough surface allowed by a porous base. Corks are mostly intended for applying rub-on wax, or getting a bit more of the hot wax into the base, before brushing.

A great resource for any board maintenance stuff is the kuu wax website: http://www.kuu.com/how2tune.htm.

Not that I take it to the limit every time I wax, but when I used to race a bit, and still do occasionally, I get a little aggressive with the whole wax, scrape, buff, rewax, temp mixing thing... another nice thing if you're lazy is to use a slightly colder wax as a base layer on your edges (just hot wax a bit in around the edges then scrape) before applying the appropriate temperature, especially if its warm resort laps, it makes the wax on the edges last longer between tunes.

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 Post subject: Re: Waxing boards and skin performance?
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 8:51 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:24 pm
Posts: 11
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Mumbles has hit sh&t in order. I have been a shop tech for 20 years and I second virtually everything he says. The end result should be virtually no visible wax on the base but a smooth finish to the touch. If you have a nice stone grind finish prior to the wax, the object is to melt the wax into the base and then scrape and buff the wax so it fills all of the microscopic pores and is not ON TOP off the base. As you ride, the wax is slowly pulled out of the base by friction with the snow. A good quality iron wax should last 2-3 full, long, hard days of riding. If you are unsure if you need more wax scrape your finger nails in an "S" shape pattern down the board. If you leave obvious marks in the board you are good to go. If not, or if the base is chalky dry, get yourself an iron wax pronto.

One of the best tool is a roto brush as it has the ability to pull the wax off of the surface that is in the low points of the structure created by the stone. Again, the wax should not make the tune feel different other than a smoother finish to the touch.


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