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Splitboard.com Forums • View topic - Waxing boards and skin performance?


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 Post subject: Waxing boards and skin performance?
PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 6:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 06, 2007 10:40 pm
Posts: 115
Location: Seattle
So usually this time of year I give my gear a good wax to be ready for the first turns. I normally like a healthy wax on my alpine resort board and have yet to wax my splitboard. Are there any things to consider when you wax a split? When you intend to use skins frequently, does wax hinder the adhesive qualities of the skin? Does the skin adhesive render a nice waxing useless?

I am sure this would apply to randonee and tele folks as well. Thanks ahead of time for the replies.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 8:02 pm 
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I have found that skins stick very well to well waxed skis or boards. Waxing fairly often helps prevent glue from coming off the skins and sticking onto the base. I normally use cheap alpine wax and scrape off as much as I can after ironing it in pretty well - enough to get the top sheet of the board slightly warm. After scraping, I wipe down the bases with a bristle brush (probably overkill) and a rag to get all the loose wax off the base and edges. Been doing this for years on skis and it seems to work even better on a board. Scraping a board is kind of a pain after getting used to skis, though - I use a 6 in Polycarb scraper which does a mediocre job with a lot of effort.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 10:40 pm 
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Location: white room
I hot wax my split maybe every 5-10 times out, but I've found even one time removing the skins, most of the wax comes off. I always carry rub-on wax or Zardoz, depending on conditions, and give a quick coat before dropping in.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 8:34 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 10:25 am
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Location: Gunnison, CO
I posed this exact question to the guys at voile. They replied that the wax you use will have no effect on the performance of their glue. For what it's worth.

Also, from what I've read -- and I've been doing a lot of research on the subject -- after you wax you're supposed to remove most of the wax anyway. The purpose is to clean the base and fill in tiny gaps in the PTEX. So, there shouldn't be that much wax on the base to interfere with the glue anyway.

And about scraper performance, I've read multiple places that even on the broad surface of a board a small scraper is going to work much better than the long ones they marked for snowboards.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 10:36 am 
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Posts: 101
exactly, wax left on the board will slow you down. i use a Stanley steal scraper (4inchs wide), and then brush, then cork the edges.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 8:23 pm 
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Location: Lethbridge, Ab
Camgina wrote:
exactly, wax left on the board will slow you down. i use a Stanley steal scraper (4inchs wide), and then brush, then cork the edges.


Steel scrapers are moreso designed for ptex repair work rather than scraping wax. They can actually take existing material off your base if your not carefull. Plastic scrapers should be used for wax. I find a combination of wide crapers and short scrapers work well. The long scrapers work well but if your board is convex or concave it can leave spots out where you have to go in with a smaller scraper.


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 Post subject: Finally something I have experience with
PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 2:16 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2007 1:12 am
Posts: 829
Location: PNW Hood Canal
I have been boarding since 1987, New Years weekend to be exact. I think that I have done more board work than many shops. I boarded with a merry band of malcontents that destroyed their gear daily and I was Mr. Fixit at night to get them back on the hill the next day. This was mostly in the unforgiving Sierra Nevadas of Southern Spain where surprise is hidden under any lump of snow.

For waxing, nothing beats a correct temp wax drip meltted in small dots all around the board, then iron it in. Someone else posted to heat only until the top sheet is warm, don't get too hot and crazy, you can ruin your board base or the layers laminated together. After waxing all the dots into the base you must scrape, scrape, scrape with a short scraper at the same angle as your edges near the edge of the base and with a wider but flexed wider scraper (not the ones that are so wide they extend beyond the sides of your board though, those are worthless in my opinion). After the scraping, you must feel your work. Close your eyes, run your hands over the board base to feel any abnormalities where there is a stickyness or texture of excess wax left. After the feel job, buff, buff, buff. There are many things that do this well, but a form of non-stick sponge works well. The only time you should have any wax on the base (other than into the pores after a good waxing job) is when you store it for the winter. At this time you should load up on the edges to keep them from getting any rust pitting from moisture in the air.

I used to fully edge, wax and buff four boards each night whenever there were not p-tex, edge, core shot, d-lam, insert, binding or boot issues to repair. I must admit, I miss fixing all the things my friends could do to their boards. Makes me all nostaligic. I married one of them, and the other two are now in the area, I will make some reunion calls in the morning. Besides, Baker is opening tomorrow, so we have somewhere to go inbounds and I may adventure on my splitter into the slack.


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 Post subject: How Often & What Temp 2 Wax ??
PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 3:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2005 5:10 pm
Posts: 75
Location: So Cal LA
mtnman wrote:
I hot wax my split maybe every 5-10 times out,


How often do others out there wax there boards?

Also ..

Mumbles wrote:
For waxing, nothing beats a correct temp wax drip meltted in small dots all around the board, then iron it in.


So Mumbles & Others .. How do you find out the right mix for the Wax temp. Does this means waiting before trip and looking at weather report?

how are the snow Temperatures related to the weather temperatures?

I also use some ICER-SG (( http://www.shopicer.com/ICER/wax_SG.htm )) on my resort board during warm spring days. I never used it on my split because I didn't know how it would react with the Glu..

Any1 out there using same or similar spray on way with the skins.

Mucho Thxs !!


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 Post subject: Snow temp
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 6:41 pm 
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Location: PNW Hood Canal
Sometimes I can get in touch with someone in the area I'm going to go and get an advance report on the snow temp. The snow temp and the air temp are not always close to the same. Generally I will pick a wax that is relatively close to the air temperatures reported, but this is not as accurate as getting a snow temp. Some places provide surface temperatures, others only air temps. If I arrive someplace the evening before I will often take my digital thermometer and stick it in while having a brewski. Based on the temp there, adjust to a colder wax if I'm well below where I will ride and it is much colder (air temp) at the higher altitude or use a more broad temp spectrum wax.

After the brewski I go through the waxing there, especially if I will be at the same location for a couple of days or longer. If it is just a one day outing the best you can do is get as close to the right temp.

For the waxing, I hold my wax to my hole free iron above the board and drip dots all over it. Then I iron the board trying to blend all the dots together. No matter where the iron is I have a bare hand on the top sheet on the other side. This temp should be warm to the touch, not hot, mistakes in overheating your board can be permanently damaging. Then after the hot waxing opens the base pores to accept the wax, let it cool, scrape all traces of wax off, buff, buff, buff. There should be no evidence of any wax when you are done, but the board will feel very clean and smooth.

Speaking of clean, if the base is any way dirty, clean it first with a good base cleaner (environmentally safe citrus, or mild soap and water) the dry completely.

I find waxing and doing edges one of the most relaxing things to do the evening before a much anticipated or early season trip. I'm likely not to sleep anyway, so I will edge, wax, pack, repack, pace, check bindings, repack, you get the point.

Nothing glides better than a freshly waxed board that matches the snow temp, nothing sucks more than a stickky wax job that makes riding feel like you are going to flip over the tip of your board.

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 Post subject: Re: Snow temp
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 12:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 5:12 pm
Posts: 1599
Location: Now Oaktowntastic
Mumbles wrote:
I find waxing and doing edges one of the most relaxing things to do the evening before a much anticipated or early season trip. I'm likely not to sleep anyway, so I will edge, wax, pack, repack, pace, check bindings, repack, you get the point.

Thank you Mumbles. You are now my waxing guru. I'm still a gremmie at this sport in so many ways and waxing has been a total mystery to me until now. If you get the chance can you snap a few pics of the tools you mentioned so I can get a better idea of what to look for? Today I will be waxing the blues away because it's Dec 8 and I haven't ridden yet.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 1:27 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 10:25 am
Posts: 82
Location: Gunnison, CO
SF, just google "how to wax a snowboard" or skis and you'll get tons of hits, most with pics and a few youtube vids.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 7:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2005 5:10 pm
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Location: So Cal LA
Thxs for all the info.

Mumbles you're my wax guru 2 !


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 8:43 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:56 am
Posts: 30
Location: Durango, CO
Lots of good info in here. I agree with: dripping wax on the board, ironing it in well, scraping A LOT to the point of almost no noticeable surface or "extra" wax, brushing it out and then corking it. I think it's kinda relaxing....startup some tunes, crack a beer and heat up the iron!!

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