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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 6:39 pm 
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Posts: 73
Location: San Diego
Zach wrote:
OK... so, point out to me where I said that pulling a rope through standard, nylon webbing would burn the rope.

Right here:
Quote:
I just wonder, why on earth would you NOT worry about friction burn on the sheath of your rope?

Quote:
And, I'm pretty confident that I can back up my assessment of some of the climbing that I've done..even though I don't spend a lot of time dick-waving around here to substantiate it.

Zach
Yeah, me too. What's your point?

IceBat, as you can see from this post, the internet is a poor place to get technical information from. As for your original question, the strength of a rope is proportional to the diameter of the edge it's loaded over. A spectra sling, being skinning will weaken the rope more than a phat carabiner or a wide nylon sling. Enough that you can't rap off it in an emergency? No. But I'd use 1/2 inch webbing or 6mm cord for raps, it's cheaper, and you can safely tie knots. Not true for Spectra.

I highly doubt that Spectra slings can 'cut' through a rope in a static situation.

The illustration that you reference from FOTH is representative of 99% of the raps I've made in the mountains. It'll work just fine, spectra or no.

Remember, Spectra has a very low melting point, and offers very little friction. Therefore, you can't tie a safe knot in a spectra sling, and you can't use spectra as a prussik or autoblock.

I'd recommend John Long's 'How to Climb' series for excellent, modern, and extensive technical information.

Nice website, too!

Paul


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 Post subject: Re: inscription
PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 6:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2005 12:43 pm
Posts: 76
Location: Warshington
shasta wrote:
Inscription on your gravestone: "and it amazes me how many of you think it's so sketchball."

Climb on.

Andy


:lol: :lol: :lol: oh that's good... :roll: Dolt.

Quote:
...even though I don't spend a lot of time dick-waving around here.

Zach


You don't? Aren't you, like, sponsored or sumethin you "desperate soloing" hardman?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 7:52 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2004 12:45 pm
Posts: 158
Location: Reno
pbelitz wrote:
Zach wrote:
OK... so, point out to me where I said that pulling a rope through standard, nylon webbing would burn the rope.

Right here:
Quote:
I just wonder, why on earth would you NOT worry about friction burn on the sheath of your rope?

Quote:
And, I'm pretty confident that I can back up my assessment of some of the climbing that I've done..even though I don't spend a lot of time dick-waving around here to substantiate it.

Zach
Yeah, me too. What's your point?

IceBat, as you can see from this post, the internet is a poor place to get technical information from. As for your original question, the strength of a rope is proportional to the diameter of the edge it's loaded over. A spectra sling, being skinning will weaken the rope more than a phat carabiner or a wide nylon sling. Enough that you can't rap off it in an emergency? No. But I'd use 1/2 inch webbing or 6mm cord for raps, it's cheaper, and you can safely tie knots. Not true for Spectra.

I highly doubt that Spectra slings can 'cut' through a rope in a static situation.

The illustration that you reference from FOTH is representative of 99% of the raps I've made in the mountains. It'll work just fine, spectra or no.

Remember, Spectra has a very low melting point, and offers very little friction. Therefore, you can't tie a safe knot in a spectra sling, and you can't use spectra as a prussik or autoblock.

I'd recommend John Long's 'How to Climb' series for excellent, modern, and extensive technical information.

Nice website, too!

Paul


Are you seriously that much of a dolt? Soooo... Sky said he doesn't worry about friction burn on his rope, I ask him why not, and you extrapolate that to mean that I stated nylon webbing will burn through a rope when used as a static point?

And, suddenly your accusation that I'm posing just doesn't matter???

Here's the thing - disagreeing is fine. debate is good. But, jumping to personal attacks, especially in an anonymous forum, is weak bullshit.

As far as I could tell, this was a legitimately interesting conversation, until you and "HuFfer" decided that it was necessary to jump in and tell us all how wonderful you both are and how stupid that makes the rest of us.

Zach

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 Post subject: Re: inscription
PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2004 12:45 pm
Posts: 158
Location: Reno
huFfer wrote:
shasta wrote:
Inscription on your gravestone: "and it amazes me how many of you think it's so sketchball."

Climb on.

Andy


:lol: :lol: :lol: oh that's good... :roll: Dolt.

Quote:
...even though I don't spend a lot of time dick-waving around here.

Zach


You don't? Aren't you, like, sponsored or sumethin you "desperate soloing" hardman?


Yes, I do have sponsors. And, I have them because I try to snowboard things that are out of most people's range.

Does that make me any better than anyone around here? Nope. In fact, I ride with a number of the guys from this forum, and most of them are far more gifted snowboarders than I am.

I can understand, now, why all of the "pro" snowboarders and skiers that I've asked to participate in this forum and ours, over at Couloir won't do it. Seems like there are a number of people on these forums to immature to deal with disagreements... and, inevitably, they lash out at your abilities or accomplishments.

Zach

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 5:18 pm
Posts: 73
Location: San Diego
I'm bored.

Zach, maybe you have vastly different opinions on what is 'safe' in standard climbing procedure compared to me and all the people I've ever climbed with. Either that, or you have a hard time explaining what the hell you actually mean via a written medium. Whatever.

Quote:
And, suddenly your accusation that I'm posing just doesn't matter???

Don't get too excited, you're the one who brought up your abilities. I try not to, since some people are very strong yet do stupid things. Looks at me, I generally suck and I still do stupid things!

Quote:
Here's the thing - disagreeing is fine. debate is good. But, jumping to personal attacks, especially in an anonymous forum, is weak bullshit.

Pot? Kettle? Hmm, lessee, pbelitz and I sign my post as 'Paul'. C'mon, you can do better than that.

Quote:
Yes, I do have sponsors. And, I have them because I try to snowboard things that are out of most people's range.

Oh, please, please, don't go there.
Quote:
Does that make me any better than anyone around here? Nope. In fact, I ride with a number of the guys from this forum, and most of them are far more gifted snowboarders than I am.
Very good. So why bring up ability in the first place??
Quote:
I can understand, now, why all of the "pro" snowboarders and skiers that I've asked to participate in this forum and ours, over at Couloir won't do it. Seems like there are a number of people on these forums to immature to deal with disagreements... and, inevitably, they lash out at your abilities or accomplishments.

See, maybe you're not aware of it, but posting something like this sounds very much like you're comparing yourself to the alleged badasses that won't post. Comes across as pretty snobbish.

Cheers,

:) Paul Belitz :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:35 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2004 12:45 pm
Posts: 158
Location: Reno
Paul,

Here's the deal:

We were having a legitimate conversation about the safety of rapping off of Spectra slings. You didn't agree with me, so you made a jab at "how much of a badass" I make myself out to be.

Weak shit, man. I guarantee that you don't get by in life being that snyde in person... unless you really enjoy violence.

Like I said, this is why 99% of the legitimately experienced or "pro" ski and snowboard mountaineers out there don't participate in these forums. And, you can take that however you wish.

But, I'm sure you're right - I'm a real dick, and I have no idea what I'm doing. :roll: I would advise everyone to just PM Paul if you're looking for climbing advice. Clearly, he has all of the answers.

Zach

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:25 pm 
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Zach wrote:
I would advise everyone to just PM Paul if you're looking for climbing advice. Clearly, he has all of the answers.


I'm PM'ing huevon for advice on witty, tension-defusing posts. Clearly my technique sucks.

:cry:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 9:21 am 
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Location: PNW
While the tone of the thread is going in the right direction, I think we're going to have use a little more profanity before we can really call ourselves "the rap crowd," mmkay?

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Me llaman el desaparecido
que cuando llega ya se ha ido
volando vengo volando voy
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 9:22 am 
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While the tone of the thread is going in the right direction, I think we're going to have use a little more profanity before we can really call ourselves "the Rap Crowd," mmkay?

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Me llaman el desaparecido
que cuando llega ya se ha ido
volando vengo volando voy
de prisa de prisa rumbo perdido


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 9:28 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2005 12:43 pm
Posts: 76
Location: Warshington
Zach wrote:
As far as I could tell, this was a legitimately interesting conversation, until you and "HuFfer" decided that it was necessary to jump in and tell us all how wonderful you both are and how stupid that makes the rest of us.

Zach


Unlike yourself, I have never once on this forum said anything about my abilities or knowledge, I simply called someone on their lack of it.

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 Post subject: boring
PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 9:43 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2005 5:06 pm
Posts: 167
Location: Mt Shasta
zzzzz, snore, zzzzz, snore.

This horse is dead.

Andy


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 9:51 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 6:51 pm
Posts: 203
Location: PNW
Yeah but what about tying knots in the end of your rope, and what knot should you use to join ropes for a double-rope rappel?






:twisted:

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Me llaman el desaparecido
que cuando llega ya se ha ido
volando vengo volando voy
de prisa de prisa rumbo perdido


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 10:04 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2005 1:48 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Evergreen Land
better yet hey, Pull my finger....that'll clear the room.

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