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 Post subject: The bc of B.C. tour (warning many pics)
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 9:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 4:18 pm
Posts: 324
Location: NW/BC/Montana
I may expand on this basic TR later, but for now here's what I have. I'm lazy.

Our week started out north of Pemberton with a couloir on Joffre calling our name - the obvious one.
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Dropped our overnight gear at the hut and got moving.
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Up the anniversary glacier to the small icefield
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Vantage peak. This was hit the next day in mixed weather.
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Couloirs. The right one doesn't go through cleanly.
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Booting up the aussie couloir. Some others had been up there before us, but made excessive turns on the way down. Oh well - the snow was too baked when we got there anyways. The couloir would be super fun to flow down with speed in good powder conditions.
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Matier in the background
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on top
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gorgeous, endless terrain
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Rapping into the couloir. By far the gnarliest couloir I have ever been down. 2 rappels, the second of which our rope wasn't quite long enough for, 60 plus degrees, 2000-2500 ft total fall-line, bergschrund at the bottom, mostly by headlamp. I was gripped.
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sunset in the couloir
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Weather was moving in, so we drove down to Vancouver, gorged on sushi, visited my buddy at his place downtown, and headed out to Rogers Pass.

Heading up towards Illecillewaet.
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The Asulkan hut = $$$. It has a thermostat.
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The view from the hut is terrible.
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Heading up on the same day to Youngs Peak.
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Booted up the obvious couloir, should have come around from the top.
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It was deep, then turned to unsupportable facets.
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Nice pic Kyle!
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No pictures of riding down. The clouds moved in before we could strap in, making it a low-vis experience.

Some people go to the huts in style - toasted brie and wine. One dude even brough a full-sized electric guitar. Our ghetto food was not up to snuff.
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Next day, the Asulkan hut was full, so we had to lug our heavy packs through deep snow up to the Sapphire Col. Some beautiful lines were spied on the way, and we thought it might be feasible to come around from the top and make it a big one.
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View of Sir Donald
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Saw this rock ride on the way. Where's Jonaven when you need him? Unfortunately, it may be rather crevassed below.
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The lovely tin can on Sapphire Col. It's actually not too bad for warmth once you cook dinner, plus it's lined with insulating wood.
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We booted up to Pollox (Jupiter), and had some amazing views of the Dawson Range. An attempt to traverse the ridge to our line was thwarted by holes between the cornices and the rock. We discovered these menaces when Kyle suddenly sunk up to his chest, revealing a 15-20 ft deep crack. I was amazed that the cornice still hung there even though it was so well separated from its anchor. Stepping closer to the other side of the ridge put us on a severely exposed, rime-encrusted face that was not easily protectable. We ditched the traverse and turned around.
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Two Norwegians followed our bootpack up to Pollox. We later found out that one of them had made an attempt on K2. They were just cruising around Canada all nonchalant bagging classic Canadian climbs. Badass.
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I made a run down to the glacier.
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Then booted up Mt. Swanzy. Unfortunately, clouds and low light stopped me again, and I was forced to ride down my ascent line from 2/3rds of the way up the ridge. The other lines would have to wait.
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The hut was small and cozy. You get the picture.
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Unfortunately, the next day dawned as a near-whiteout. A few turns were made down to the glacier below Swanzy, after which we loaded up our heavy packs. The ski down to the Asulkan valley was slow so as to avoid crevasses,
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Cruising with my behemoth of a double pack.
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Poles help with lots of weight.
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We had plenty of time to get down to the Wheeler hut, so we stopped along the way to check out the possibilities. I was seriously considering this drop, but ultimately decided to skip it. The distance to clear the rocks was actually quite sizeable when viewed from the side. In hindsight, I should have built a lip and runway, which would have made it feasible.
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Kyle dropped this pillow line as the snow became wetter.
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Next day with weather and sketchy avalanche conditions arriving, we decided to head back down to Montana (Saturday). I really wanted to make it down to splitfest, but it was just too far of a drive. Next year!

While we didn't get very far, more importantly my eyes were opened to the sheer quantity of amazing possibilities up in Canada. We only scraped the surface, leaving me yearning for more of that vast, wild, snow-covered land. I will be back to explore the deep valleys, huge icefields and endless terrain. It is just so damn sick!


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 Post subject: Re: The bc of B.C. tour (warning many pics)
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 9:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 8:41 pm
Posts: 1622
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
nomad wrote:
Rapping into the couloir. By far the gnarliest couloir I have ever been down. 2 rappels, the second of which our rope wasn't quite long enough for, 60 plus degrees, 2000-2500 ft total fall-line, bergschrund at the bottom, mostly by headlamp. I was gripped.
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:shock::shock::shock:
nomad wrote:
We had plenty of time to get down to the Wheeler hut, so we stopped along the way to check out the possibilities. I was seriously considering this drop, but ultimately decided to skip it. The distance to clear the rocks was actually quite sizeable when viewed from the side. In hindsight, I should have built a lip and runway, which would have made it feasible.
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:shock::shock::shock:

I don't think the Norwegians are the badassess here...

And a double pack on top of it all! Nice.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 10:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 4:18 pm
Posts: 324
Location: NW/BC/Montana
We have a long way to go...

http://staff.washington.edu/skykilo/Formidable/NWFace.html


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 11:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 8:16 pm
Posts: 43
Very nice TR nomad. BC looks sick right now.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 11:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 12:06 pm
Posts: 354
Location: PDX
nomad wrote:


where do i sign up? :twisted:

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"take it easy, if its easy take it twice..."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 6:58 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2005 4:15 pm
Posts: 2578
Location: san diego CA
So whats heavier your double pack or your Ball sack? Im scared just sitting here


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 7:49 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2004 10:57 pm
Posts: 4958
Location: California
Your adventures and TRs are always incredible guys!

WOW!

Thanks for sharing. 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 8:04 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 3:59 pm
Posts: 608
Location: Lander, WY
Very nice for sure. Thanks for sharing the journey! Must get to Canada.....NOW! :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 10:11 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2005 12:26 pm
Posts: 351
Location: bozeman
hell yeah! I figured you two would be hitting up some gnarly lines while on spring break.



Quote:
Some people go to the huts in style - toasted brie and wine


What with the size of that pack you didn't have any bottles of wine? :P


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:12 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 9:33 am
Posts: 50
Location: SoCal (Temecula)
This TR does not suck!

Nice write up and sweet pics, Nomad.

peace,
D.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:23 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 12:37 pm
Posts: 1881
Location: in between
Another amazing TR Nomad.

I like the hot box pic.....or is that a steam room?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:42 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 6:51 pm
Posts: 203
Location: PNW
Man, you're all over the place! Let me know if you're going to be in Washington...

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que cuando llega ya se ha ido
volando vengo volando voy
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 2:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 3:22 pm
Posts: 101
Well, looks like you had a good trip. How was rogers pass i wish i could have been there(spent over 20 days last year and zero this year :cry: ), i see you climbed Youngs. Did you descend via the 'seven steps of heaven' or 'forever young'(the prominent skinny that falls straight from the summit). To let you guys in on a secret(im sure nomad will agree) Rogers Pass is probably the mecca in Northa America for Ski touring/mountaineering. With amazing ski terrain and super classic climbs like the NW ridge of Sir Macdonald

I am glad you guys stayed at the Asulkan, i have never had the chance(i have only camped at the base of the Illecillewait and stayed in the Wheeler) but it saves you a hell of a lot of slogging. And yes they do it in luxury up there, i have seen people pulling kegs(full) up there.

I take it you guys never made it to the icefields for the intended big faces? Spring conditions are comming in and i am looking for partners if you feel like coming back up for a week, i move to Jasper some time in may. Ill make it worth your while (Aemeer Coulier, 3/4 Coulier, Bryce, Athabasca, Andromeda, the list goes on and the possibilities are endless)

Glad you had a good trip, i hope my pre-trip info served you well, and i look forward to the expanded trip report

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