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 Post subject: Re: Malfunction/Pins falling out of Tesla-bindings
PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 11:47 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 29, 2012 9:48 am
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Location: Sydney
I just converted my burner heel cup bolts to doweled studs and nyloc nuts after losing one too many bolts. The same method will work with these tesla pins if any of you would rather fix it yourself.

I used 1.6mm stainless tig welding rod for the dowel. I drilled through the base plate into the stud and cut the dowel off just below the surface then centre punched the base plate to lock the dowel.

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 Post subject: Re: Malfunction/Pins falling out of Tesla-bindings
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 8:39 am 
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Location: Kodiak, AK
montoya wrote:
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Each of the last two days out, the outboard pin on my left Tesla binding looked just like this. I may have to try to dowel it too.

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 Post subject: Re: Malfunction/Pins falling out of Tesla-bindings
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:58 pm 
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I have some 1/8" SS welding rod I can put through the base plate and touring pins as a retention system. The question is, which way to drill? If I go in from the leading edge of the base plate, I will compromise the least amount of aluminum. I also would never be able to push the pin out again. If I drill through the base plate from top to bottom, there is a tiny chance I could punch the pin through later if need be, but I would be putting holes in seemingly more failure prone locations (e.g, having the aluminum in the base plate surrounding the touring pins crack). What sayeth the mob?

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Jones Solution 163W
Venture Zephyr 164/260
Never Summer SL 163X
Burton Spliff 148
Voile Mojo RX 166
BD, G3, and Gecko skins
Sparks!


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 Post subject: Re: Malfunction/Pins falling out of Tesla-bindings
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 10:22 pm 
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Location: Sydney
If you want to be able to remove it you could drill completely through top to bottom and seal both ends with the centre punch. That way you could still punch the dowel out if need be.
1/8 is too big IMO. 1/16 is better


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 Post subject: Re: Malfunction/Pins falling out of Tesla-bindings
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 12:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 05, 2009 8:15 pm
Posts: 37
Location: Greater Vancouver, Canada
An update to my first post in this thread.

Spark did send a a replacement Magneto baseplate for my first problem (pin moved on front foot/left ski baseplate), although it took very close to three weeks to arrive. All is good so far with the replacement after five days of touring.

However, I had a problem with the baseplate of the second of my original Magentos (rear foot/right ski) this weekend at the Baker splitfest. Something happened causing the baseplate not to slide past the pucks - I couldn't tell if the pin had moved slightly, or if the baseplate flexed. Luckily the Spark guys were there for the weekend, so I got to talk to them in person. They were as perplexed as I was about the baseplate problems, and we all agreed it was lucky it happened on a slackcountry day close to the parking lot. They speculted it could have been some problem with the tolernaces on the interface between the touring bracket and the pin nubs, but on closer inspection they said that wasn't the case, and didn't replace my touring brackets.

They set me up with a new baseplate right away, and so now both of my original magneto's (front and back) baseplates are replacements, after about 15 to 20 days of touring.

I was able to ask them about how persistent this problem with the baseplates is, given this thread, and my experiences (which they never did speak to in several emails I sent). For what it's worth, they told me this is an isolated problem for sure, reported by less than 0.5% of their Tesla system customers. I should be confident that I won't have any more baseplate problems, and won't need any more replacements. Time will tell......

I also asked if there was something in the works for next years model that would be a solution to the pin moving/falling out of baseplates, and they were pretty vague with the reply, something along the lines of; yeah, that's something we might maybe look it


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 Post subject: Re: Malfunction/Pins falling out of Tesla-bindings
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 10:30 pm 
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Location: reno
I agree with Bob. 1/16" is a good size for drilling through the base plate and pin. Instead of welding rod or other material for putting something through the hole, I would strongly recommend a spring pin. They can be easily removed with a punch if need be but the friction will keep them in since they are a press fit application. I would also drill from the front of the baseplate, not through the top. The material behind the pin from the front is thicker and can handle the stress better than two holes going through the top and bottom of the baseplate. Although I haven't had many days touring yet, I haven't had any problems yet. I think the key would continue to be careful during transitions not to force the installation of the baseplates as misalignment can cause problems when the plates are forced into position and gauling tends to do bad things with the forces created by skinning. :twocents:

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 Post subject: Re: Malfunction/Pins falling out of Tesla-bindings
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 8:38 am 
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How are they easily removed with a punch if you drill in from the front and they are seated in a blind well? Sounds like a permanent fix and not reversible.

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Venture Zephyr 164/260
Never Summer SL 163X
Burton Spliff 148
Voile Mojo RX 166
BD, G3, and Gecko skins
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 Post subject: Re: Malfunction/Pins falling out of Tesla-bindings
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 6:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:18 pm
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Location: reno
You drill through it. You can then use an awl with a 90 degree bend and punch it back out if need be. You could also drill into the spring pin until it catches and use some vise grips to pull out the pin while stuck on the drill bit if you didn't want to drill through the back.

In any case, I imagine any drilling would void any warranty Spark would grant anyhow so the permanency is probably irrelevant. :twocents:

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 Post subject: Re: Malfunction/Pins falling out of Tesla-bindings
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 8:36 pm 
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Location: Sydney
It shouldnt void the warranty unless it cracks through the hole you drilled. They have to understand people are going to try to fix what is obviously a design flaw.
Splitboarders gonna fix shit.


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