Rughty's binding are STILL GOING STRONG!!!! Second season almost over, a lot more miles and just got back from Silverton Splitfest. Buy with confidence. Rughty/Triad bindings are "Good To Go" as they say....
_________________ Talking about snowboarding is like dancing about architecture...
Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2006 1:57 am Posts: 1110 Location: Santa Barbara, CA/Ashland, OR
I know I have made comment before and you brushed me, but when I see people carrying on about "stacked dimes" etc and the welds are far from great it gets under my skin. I am not here to flame you but to give you some tips that WILL make your welding better. I do admire you for having a go, tig welding is not easy. So the things I see that could be improved, take them or leave them. 1. Stich welds are better than a long run, drill holes every 2" or so and weld up to the holes, one day this will prevent a failure, its smart engineering to assume the worst case scenario. 2. It looks like there is still some anodising on the outer sections, I see you have cleaned mechanically which does a decent job but a bath in caustic soda (oven cleaner) would help even further, it will actually eat in and remove the anodising completely. 3. Use more negative in your AC current, this will clean as you weld resulting in nice shiny welds without the black impurity that you are getting. 4. Ease up with the filler. You are jamming too much in and it is cooling too fast when it hits which gives the uneven look of each dime stack as you call it. A little less filler put in a little later than you are doing now will result in a much neater looking weld. I like to see what I call the "pac man" (definately not a technical term lol) before I dab the filler. It looks like a backwards C shape. The edges are melting and overtaking the middle, when you see this give it some filler, but dont jam it in, let the weld pool take what it wants from your rod. This will give you nice flat perfectly even beads and produce a much nicer looking weld.
Please dont take offence.
If this is genuinely meant as constructive criticism, you should consider PMing this to Ken rather then putting your criticism in the public thread on multiple occasions.
_________________ "Winter is not a season, it's an occupation." -Sinclair Lewis
Sorry fellas, I was stalled for a little while trying to get triad off the ground. My investor doesn't see eye to eye about growth into the hb scene, so I will be doing custom hb one ups on a case by case basis. I will likely not venture much with cants as there are solid options with firstlight for canted pucks. I am currently talking to a member on this forum about doing my first conversion using his bails off a voile mountain plate. The design will allow the boot to rest directly on top of the slider plate. I don't see a touring option with such a low profile so dynafit (sp??) touring mode would have to occur. Anybody interested just contact me and we can talk about it.
Long time coming. Finally got the finished Flow entry split binding done after a couple years of testing the proto.
Flow hooked up a few highbacks so as not to confuse the left and right side for those transitions.
They sure do look nice on the Carbon.
Now if it would only snow...
Here is how the weight breaks down
The binding could be lightened with carbon fiber highbacks and cables replaced with lighter materials, but I enjoy the added feel and comfort in knowing this setup could withstand a rider twice my weight and that goes a long way in the backcountry...
I couldn't help myself!!! I loved touring and transitions on the new afterburners, but the highbacks aren't as stiff as I like. Not to mention preset forward lean at the flick of a lever. Even at the resort I like to loosen the straps during the lift ride up which makes this setup pretty awesome now. Going to do some unnecessary testing as I know this setup works. Can't wait to make these pretty, but don't want to wait for the powdercoater to keep me off the slopes and further lightening will need thought about as well before calling it good.