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 Post subject: Battling the evil Snoli
PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 1:41 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2011 6:48 pm
Posts: 671
Location: Kodiak, AK
Our recent trip to Tahoe convinced me that we need some rock splits. Something where I just didn't care if we took core shots or gacked an edge. I have plenty of decks to wreck, but my wife only has 2 (count 'em... ONLY TWO! oh the humanity!) splitboards so I picked up a Head Flocka Something-or-other off Sierra Trading Post for stupidcheap in order to chop it in half. I was about to do the Voile T-nut thing, but then stumbled upon Snoli inserts, and thunk to myself, "wow, self, those looks pretty spiffy!" Turns out Tognar.com sells the little beasties and the special drill bit to install them, so a lot of cheddar later they were in the mail.

I whacked the board into two bits, G-Flexed the inside edge, and proceeded to do the inserts. Down the rabbit hole I went...

Turns out that the 9mm tall Snoli inserts are a bit too tall for the deck. They would stick up above the top sheet by a couple of millimeters when fully seated, so I needed to shave them down a skosh. Little did I realize that 7mm inserts are for sale elsewhere (for even more cheddar).

The worst part ended up being that the Snoli inserts are a little shallower than stock split inserts, so all my binding hardware screws are too long. I need to grind about 2 mm off everything to keep the screws from bottoming out before the bits are snugged down tight. Fock.

Pilot holes drilled:

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The Snoli drill bit, some milled holes, and a stock 9mm Snoli insert and a shaved-down insert:

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9mm insert (top), shaved insert (left), and a fresh 9mm insert about to get a haircut (right) in my custom Snoliholder (trademark):

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All Snoli-holed up:

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The 2 inserts on the right are the Snolis, the others on the left foreground are the stock 4x4 inserts:

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Karakoram hardware to finish out the job:

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To be continued... but in a nutshell, next time T-nuts!

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Jones Solution 163W
Venture Zephyr 164/260
Never Summer SL 163X
Burton Spliff 148
Voile Mojo RX 166
BD, G3, and Gecko skins
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 Post subject: Re: Battling the evil Snoli
PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 9:58 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 1:08 pm
Posts: 378
Location: near munich
the snoli inserts are in diferent highs on the market 6+9,0mm .... bay 6,0mm. it is better as your grinder massaker. Nose Tail Clips, youse a littel bit longer bolts - the must the same highet as the safty plastic.


bURTON

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 Post subject: Re: Battling the evil Snoli
PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 8:13 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2004 6:10 am
Posts: 8
Location: Cambridge, UK
Shame about the Snoli inserts - they look nice with the ptex bases. Do you reckon 7mm ones will go without grinding? Still mean using shorter screws but hopefully enough thread to do the job...


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 Post subject: Re: Battling the evil Snoli
PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 9:14 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2011 6:48 pm
Posts: 671
Location: Kodiak, AK
I have 4 mm of insert to play with. That's 4 threads. Not a lot, but enough.

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Jones Solution 163W
Venture Zephyr 164/260
Never Summer SL 163X
Burton Spliff 148
Voile Mojo RX 166
BD, G3, and Gecko skins
Sparks!


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 Post subject: Re: Battling the evil Snoli
PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 8:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 3:31 pm
Posts: 60
Location: Easton, WA
We tried the snolis for a while because they were so much easier to install than the tnuts and ptex discs. We found that they are more money and hassle than the ease of installation. First off, you HAVE to use a drill press. If they are even slightly crooked, the ptex will rip off when you shave them down. Secondly, and much more concerning, is they are incredibly easy to rotate once installed. Don't use any form of lock tight or you will never be able to remove the hardware.

The 7mm ones do fit without shaving though :)

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 Post subject: Re: Battling the evil Snoli
PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 11:50 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2011 6:48 pm
Posts: 671
Location: Kodiak, AK
Yeah, I tried shaving one of the ptex Snoli caps level with the base using a pretty sharp wood plane. Outcome: I basically shaved the front half nicely and then ripped the back half of the ptex disc clean off. :scratch: Who came up with is fucking design??? :soapbox:

I'm gonna use an angle grinder to level the rest, and if that goes poorly I will punch them all out and replace them with epoxy and T- nuts, so help me Dog. :deadhorse:

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Jones Solution 163W
Venture Zephyr 164/260
Never Summer SL 163X
Burton Spliff 148
Voile Mojo RX 166
BD, G3, and Gecko skins
Sparks!


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 Post subject: Re: Battling the evil Snoli
PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 4:02 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 1:08 pm
Posts: 378
Location: near munich
next secret about snoli insert - you must press it in ... se some picturs

http://www.wildschnee.de/blog/tipps/insert-setzen

in the first day s i make the mistake - i mounted from the top side with a bolt, the upper tpex flisps a way.


bURTON

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 Post subject: Re: Battling the evil Snoli
PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 5:30 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2004 6:10 am
Posts: 8
Location: Cambridge, UK
OK, OK, I'm convinced - T-nuts and ptex discs it is, handy really as I have both already.

On the subject I was thinking about trying to cut out the hole in the ptex in the base larger than the t-nut hole, so that the (appropriately sized) ptex disc would be glued to wood core around the edges as well as the bottom of the t-nut/epoxy. The idea being that the ptex disc would be less likely to come away that way, or is this a solution to a problem that doesn't exist?


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