Sorry in advance for all the blurry pics. I need a new camera!!!
Lack of snow = lots of spare time on my hands and a pow board project in hopes of getting some pow!!! Looks like it worked all around as we are fixin to get the second storm session of the week tonight!!!
touring mode solved
That was the easiest part. Not many pics of the Salamon split. Actually, I don't have any. I guess I forgot to take those. I dremeled the edges, used a bimetal bit in a jigsaw for minimal kerf, and epoxied the center. Only needed to add the voile hooks and 1 tip clip. Lots of pics of the board interface though...
After waterjetting round disc's from 1/4" 6061, the milling process began.
I test fitted the thickness by taking off .005" at a time until the binding rotated with a little force when tightened to the board.
Next I figured out my stance angles keeping the notches in the appropriate location.
Cut the disc to allow overlapping of the board edges. No sense in making the binding do all the work!
Determining which part of the disc to overlap was crucial. Do it wrong and the board won't come apart for touring without taking off either the pucks or the voile hooks!!! Locking the binding in place also keeps the voile hooks from becoming sloppy. This interface is very tight and rigid. Far better than any system out there to date!!! Board flex and ride mode slop of the board skis is history.
Even the threaded center hole I used to turn these disc's on the lathe are still useful. When installing the half disc's on the split halves (when the split is put together in ride mode) the alignment and spacing is perfect by threading the bolt through the center hole then tightening the disc's to the board.
And it only comes in at 3 ounces heavier than my much shorter solid resort board!!! Not the lightest at 11lbs 9oz.
12lb 12oz including touring interface minus climbing wires and touring brackets. I haven't got those yet. This bad boy was designed for ride mode.
Got a chance to take it out on saturday at Mt. Rose along with a couple other boards. The ride mode is solid!!! Better than I had hoped. Ice, hard pack and Pow, it handled it all!!! Floated (planed, not plowed) better than my solid Sentury Sync 159 and my Voile Artisan 165. Going to have to say I think I'm done with the twin tip style boards after riding the DIY.
Post subject: Re: DIY Salomon 166 swallowtail and rughty(ized) ieism bindings
Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 11:21 pm
Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:59 am Posts: 253 Location: Amsterdam
Very nice sir ! It's pretty solid huh? I still can't believe how much better this is than a $500 puck binding in ride mode. I recently rode mine for a 14 hour fundraiser and didn't have one single problem.
The overlapping make a big difference IMO, it's like two extra chinese hooks.
Also like how you solved the touring mode, simple but effective.
This is by far the tightest splitboard I have ever seen. Rides more like a solid than any other board I have ever ridden. This interface rocks! I did do one more thing though....I filled the ridges on the binding with epoxy to smoothen it out a bit to decrease wear on the teeth and to give the interface more surface area. It also tightened the interface slightly. I bet this deck would give my carbon solution a run for it's money (it certainly was cheaper!!!) considering it has the voile interface.
Problem with that is different bindings have different size discs. It would have to be similar to my conversion process. One job at a time. Its also very time consuming. I am actually considering drilling my carbon solution split to put in the inserts required to mount this interface in place of the standard split board binding inserts. Just trying to gather the eggs to drill into something that expensive.
Broke the tip clip on day 2 of resort ride mode testing. Never understood the logic behind using plastic on the tip and tail clips. Especially when you want it to keep the board tight too. So.....Thanks to the Karakoram brothers who gave me some prototype karakoram clips waaay back in the day before they were famous. I put one of them to use after sitting in a drawer for a few years....
Epoxy is still curing. That gap closes up very nice! And it's easier to manage than a tight plastic clip too.
more random interface shots. mounting pucks setback not centered ='s more leverage and downward force for better grip. This added grip would allow for a steeper skin track if you are interested in that sort of thing.
Big boots are a toe bumping problem of the past and yaaaa for longer strides!