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 Post subject: binding Q re: longer screws and strap binding/slider overlap
PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 12:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 9:39 am
Posts: 147
Amigos,

I'm headed on a hut trip in a week (Ice Creek Lodge in BC) and recently got a good deal on extra slider plates (thx BMX!). I thought I'd mount up my strap bindings on them, that way I can take AT boot and soft boot set-ups and really test the side-by-side performance. 5 days in the BC's gonna be fuuuuun!! 8)

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hardboot set-up = Lowa Struktura (loosly put on to keep it surfy) and Voile flip-buckle binding

softboot set-up = Nidecker 900 Carbons and Burton Drivers.

1) I need a longer screws to mount the bindings to the slider plates..The puck on the binding is 9/16" deep. What are my options as far as screw size? Anyone know where I could quickly find the right screws?

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2) Also, once i get them set up, do you think that the overlap of the strap binding base on the slider plate will be a negative? The bases seem pretty stiff, but there is a neoprene shock base on there (works nicely in-bounds to shock-absorb).

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That black insert in there is a toe-heel plastic shim to keep energy transfer edge to edge.
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3) I have not weighed these set-ups, but certainly the Nidecker is no Burton C-60 vapor-weight binding. Thoughts on if there will feel like a difference while hiking up.

I'll be sure to be chronicling the journey and getting back to you with a full photo report.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 8:25 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2004 10:57 pm
Posts: 4965
Location: California
yo tappy,

I've been meaning to ask you if you were taking a splitter to Ice Creek.

For the screws, 5mm is the diameter you'll need to fit it the Voile t-nuts. For length 15mm usually is standard but if you need longer you could try 20mm and grind/file off any excess if needed.

Your pic showing the underside of the binding is correct. Make sure the slider track is centered. Re the overlap, that's just how the system is currently designed, it won't be a negative but it may be hard to get to the slider pins depending on your bindings.

The binding you're using looks like a nice binding for lift served but for the splitter eventually you should really look for a lighter binding like the C60, Bent Metal, or Ride Flight Series.

Hope that helps man, HAVE FUN! :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:10 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 5:12 pm
Posts: 1598
Location: Now Oaktowntastic
FYI, I found that the overlap of my strap bindings (Burton Missions) over the slider plates was a big negative. The base plates on those bindings have a lot of flex and with the big overlap it makes for a very loose connection between binding and baseplate. I can easily torque the binding enough to open a 3/32" gap between binding and slider plate.

I tried to stiffen things up this weekend by ditching the rubber gasket between the slider plate and binding. I had to double up the washers on the binding screws because otherwise the screws stuck out too far below the t nuts and ran into the pucks on my board.

Doubling the washers worked fine, but I still have a ton of flex in my bindings. Probably okay with softer board, but it doesn't work with my Prior. Now I'm looking for the stiffest base plate I can find. Probably aluminum Rides.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 10:00 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 9:39 am
Posts: 147
thx doods.

i'll go look for the screws and see if I can make something work.

i'd agree that these probably aren't the best bindings for the splitter, but I'm not spending any more money at this point.

if i ride the Lowa's pretty loose, I get a semi-surfing feel.

stoked for the trip, i'll post a TR once I get back.

word up.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 3:30 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 9:55 am
Posts: 29
Location: SF Bay Area
Hey Tap,

I hate to contradict the all-knowing BCR, but 99.9% of modern binding>board hardware is M6 (Metric, 6mm diameter), Voile T-nuts included. Years ago, Mervin Mfg. (LibTech, Gnu, etc) used 1/4" x 20tpi screws, but I think they caved in the mid/late 90s.

There are a couple places on the web to get high quality stainless metric hardware, if you can't find anything locally.

www.nutty.com
www.mcmaster.com
www.mscdirect.com

All of the websites are unbelievably difficult to navigate as they stock a dizzying array of goodies. Usually you'll find what you need under "Fasteners, Metric Machine Screws" or somesuch.

Good Luck!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 4:57 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2004 10:57 pm
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Location: California
Thanks hardbooter, you're absolutely right its 6mm.

When I started responding to tap I wrote 6mm but I thought I'd double check myself before putting some incorrect info out there. I threw a tape measure on a screw but I guess I measured it wrong. Speaking of that, how would you measure the length? From the threads or the top of the screw head?

Sorry for the confusion tap and thanks for the catch hb! :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 5:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 9:55 am
Posts: 29
Location: SF Bay Area
Length depends on what type of screw you are looking at.

Flat heads are measured from end to end.
Image

Cap screws are measured from underneath the head.
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Confusing? Yes. Both screws are "16mm", but one measures 16mm end to end, and the other measures 22mm from end to end...


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