I am getting serious about trying HBs and want to use my old AT stuff that hasn't seen much play for a while.
So far, I have done this:
swap black tongue for green one
remove calf booster piece velcro-ed to the back of the intuition liner
remove power strap
remove Both lower buckles (toe + arch)
Trying for fit and flex, they seem like they will ride very well for pow in walk mode, and possibly even steep ice. I may need to lock to ski mode for the gnar.
Do you think leaving just two (med + top) buckles is increasing the chance of strap failure from increased load?
How do people seal holes from removing the buckles on the lower boot? I think some shorter bolts with a rubber washer should do?
From what I can tell, I get enough forward mobility without modifying the back bar. Not so sure about lateral flex, but they don't seem any stiffer than my Deeluxe Sparks. I am not convinced I want to cut cuff... Haven't played with canting yet, and forward lean is at max.
Things are coming together as I already fit my Onyx toe pieces to Dynafit adapters from Spark. The only missing piece is the HB binders. Are the Voile MTN Plates so bad?
I am also consiering buying a full Dynafit set so that I can also lock heels for flats and sidestepping...
Not sure if I can do it, but want to try. Boots aren't small, and stance isn't too wide either. If nothing else, will stick with toe pieces only for better skinning.
The ideas to mount with a bit of offset, and also trim pucks are certainly on my list. Want to avoid offset, even though the person who did it said that there's no perceivable disadvantage. Cutting the puck's corner, on the other hand, should be a no-brainer
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 1:05 am Posts: 73 Location: Oslo, Norway
As you can see on the photos I could have gone further back, and for many riders this is of little disadvantage since the stance on the back foot is often less angled than the front foot, however, in terms of skinning and split skiing, it is of advantage to be close to the "correct" position in relation to the sidecut and balance of each ski. As you used to be a skier you should be familiar with this
The masking tape you can see on the photo I used to mark the sidecut length to find the centre, then subtract the setback for the board (4cm for the odin), and position the corresponding point marked on the skiboot as close as possible to this point (herein the trade off).
To be honest, I have had little advantage of this setup. Kefflers idea with using a skistrap would be an adequate option for me - in particular since you can undo it without stepping out of your toepiece.
Regaring modifying the walk mode/forward lean bar on the boots, on my F3s it was really easy to completely remove the entire mechanism, then drill out the forward lean holes to become one slot - and then re-mount the mechanism. And it was well worth it. I also cut down the cuff and the "highbacks". Can take some photos if you are interested?
Next planned mod is to increase lateral, but will wait until I have a few days on new setup before I do more...may have got a little carried away on the highbacks...
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 3:18 pm Posts: 471 Location: New Castle, Colorado
Please note: Voile is coming out with canted pucks in a couple of weeks. Canting can help with a wider stance.
Also I suspect, but not sure if Phantoms would help with creating a wider stance. I have not tried Phantoms yet! Wide stance is needed for a full mounted Dynafit binding (Toe and Heel).
If your interested in using a stiff Scarpa Spirit 4 (4 buckle boot), try the Tongar Eliminator tongue without modification (look for my posted on the Eliminator tongue. See if a local ski shop has these available to carpet test. [Stiff Scarpa Spirit 4 boots compared to my Scarpa F1]
_________________ Ride the Pow! ---- Venture Storm R 163 (2010), Dynafit Binding/Sparks Adapter, Scarpa F1 Boots, Bomber Sidewinder Bindings * Prior 172 Fissile (2012) Dynafit Binding/Sparks Adapter
I am still sorting things out. Currently waiting on the MTN plates to start experimenting what feels OK for stance with existing boots. If things don't feel OK, I'll probably seriously consider shaving boot material The Plates are mostly for experimentation, at $55 not a big investment for testing. Once I figure things out, I'd love to sell the plates and get a good set of bindings, for example the ones FirstLight designed, or Phantoms.
My hard boot's BSL seems to be 322mm and soft boot stance is just under 23" but I am not sure if I'll be able to maintain the angles and all with the hard boots. With testing, I'll decide if I can use the current touring holes with an adapter or if I want to get new touring holes with Quiver Killers, and also do I really want the heel lock with Dynafits or can I get by with the ski strap idea...
NorwegianDan has nice pics of the rear bar for the Scarpa boot. I have done the same thing with 'slotting' the rear bar on the Scarpa 4 and the Scarpa Rush, and it would appear as though Scarpa uses the same bar on all these boots. I got too aggressive with the dremel on my Spirit 4s, but if you call Scarpa, they will send you (fast!) replacements for $5 a piece. I would recommend getting the 4 screws that hold each walk mode unit in place as well.