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 Post subject: How to Seal the Inside of Your Splitboard
PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 7:17 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 3:31 pm
Posts: 60
Location: Easton, WA
**EDITED. Forgot a couple things and needed more accuracy!**

So you've decided to cut your perfectly functioning snowboard in half. Congratulations! You are now just as crazy as the rest of us!

Here is how to seal your freshly exposed core:

What you'll need:
-Splitboard
-Epoxy or a Varethane sealant
-Popsicle sticks
-Gloves
-Foil/wax paper
-Paint brush or sponge
-Rags

1. Setup your new skis on a stable platform, inside edge facing up.
Image

2A. Get your sealant ready. Most people use a polyurethane or varethane.

2B. Get your sealant ready. For foam core boards, you'll have to use the G-flex epoxy, in which you want equal parts resin and hardener. Do this on a piece of foil or wax paper. This ratio is dependant on your brand of Epoxy, so be sure to read the instructions before mixing. You'll want to mix the resin and hardener smoothly with a popcicle stick to avoid creating too many air bubbles. Make sure it is thoroughly mixed.
Image Image



We don't use a varethane any more. Here's a sneak peak of our secret weapon. Sorry, we can't tell you what it is... I mean, it IS a secret after all :P
Image Image

4. Using a paint brush or sponge, carefully and smoothly lay an even layer of sealant across the board. Be sure to not miss any spots.
Image

5. Wipe off any drips. Keep checking on the board every so often to make sure there are no new drips.
Image

6. Add a second layer 1-4 hours after the first layer or when the sealant begins to set. DON'T wait until the board has completely dried because you want the layers to bond to one another. If you use epoxy, you'll only need one layer.
Image

7. "Watch paint dry"... literally until it is sealed. This usually takes 24-36 hours until completely dry. And you're done!
Image


Hint: When using Epoxy/Varethane as your sealant, be sure to check on your board after you've toured a hand full of times. Splits can get pretty banged up, and that epoxy can get chipped off. Reseal as needed.

**EDITED. Forgot a couple things and needed more accuracy!**

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 Post subject: Re: How to Seal the Inside of Your Splitboard
PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 4:18 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2005 3:32 pm
Posts: 355
mmmm, looks like my can of Watco Teak Oil, Smiths Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer is real good too but lots of VOC (stink and toxicity) to help it leech/seep into oily hardwoods-good reputation for refinishing and preserving exterior wood windows on exposed sides of houses, you almost hate to buy a whole can of that crap just for the strips on your board. http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/. I'd just wax the rails every time you wax the way burton/wildschnee suggests, no biggie. With epoxy I like to leave the wood rough sanded, apply epoxy, then sand it back a bit so there isn't a layer to chip off, you don't want an epoxy layer on the wood, you just want the exposed wood to be well saturated with hardened resin.


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 Post subject: Re: How to Seal the Inside of Your Splitboard
PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 3:43 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:38 am
Posts: 13
If you live around the ocean GitRot is the best. Rather than just being a flexible epoxy, it actually replaces the cellulose fibers of the wood. It doesn't adhere to the ptex so you still need something else if you use the pucks.


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 Post subject: Re: How to Seal the Inside of Your Splitboard
PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 1:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:07 pm
Posts: 63
Great thread. Was just looking into this myself. Any reason not to use outdoor paint coat?


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 Post subject: Re: How to Seal the Inside of Your Splitboard
PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 4:51 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 15, 2010 2:01 pm
Posts: 794
Location: Colorado
Varathene or Spar Urethane, not exactly wheel reinvention... :thumpsup:

http://splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=12858&hilit=varathene

http://splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=13585&hilit=+varathene&start=0

http://splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=11598&p=84237&hilit=varathene#p84237

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 Post subject: Re: How to Seal the Inside of Your Splitboard
PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 1:21 pm 
what a waste of time i never sealed my board and after 10 years it is fine not a bit of delam! and looks just like your pic ... wood and ptex!


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 Post subject: Re: How to Seal the Inside of Your Splitboard
PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 1:22 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 3:31 pm
Posts: 60
Location: Easton, WA
:thumpsup: :thumpsup:

Brendon has been debating sealing his boards any more for that same reason ha
Ever feel like we do things just because that's how we've always done them? :P

**EDITED OP. Forgot a couple things and needed more accuracy!**

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 Post subject: Re: How to Seal the Inside of Your Splitboard
PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 8:42 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2011 9:20 pm
Posts: 312
Spar varnish or varethane it cheap and lasts. I just couldn't bring myself to do nothing.... :scratch:


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 Post subject: Re: How to Seal the Inside of Your Splitboard
PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 12:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 18, 2013 3:21 pm
Posts: 4
[url]Just split my first board and used pc-11 a marine grade two part epoxy. Anyone else usevthisvstuff??[/url]


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 Post subject: Re: How to Seal the Inside of Your Splitboard
PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 1:04 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:38 am
Posts: 13
Tried the marine epoxy it once for holding my pucks in. Didn't last. Got brittle and chipped out. I also tried the paint route and had my board delam in a few weeks. So I guess the option for not sealing is really only if you're in dry snow. I guess is also depends on the manufacturer. Had both a lib and a salomon delam on the inside edge.


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 Post subject: Re: How to Seal the Inside of Your Splitboard
PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 2:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:07 pm
Posts: 63
Used paint enamel that also worked on the steel inserts as i cut a Burton with 3d pattern.Image


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