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 Post subject: May 9-10th Mt. Baker North Ridge Climb and CD Descent
PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 3:10 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2011 6:15 pm
Posts: 661
Location: mountains of portland, oregon
I've been wanting to do a trip like this for quite awhile now. Splitboards are great fun, everyone knows that.

Climbing makes a man out of you quickly. It's kind of like the army, except you get to make your own decisions.

Even though I have done many mountaineering trips with a splitboard, they have all felt like more of a backcountry run more than a alpine climbing experience. This time, I wanted to switch it up and do a technical climb, with a splitboard as an approach tool.

We started 2.7 miles from the trailhead at a large snow drift. We contemplated trying to dig it out for a bit, but decided to just hoof it. After a 1/2 mile of road walking we were able to skin up and start skiing. I believe this was at about the 2,700 ft. level.

All pictures c/o ryanirv

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I had to take a minute to do some mountain safety research on this bridge.

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TLT-5's and mohair skins. I cannot go back to g3's or voile's. Gotta have the glide!

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Take another moment to absorb the surroundings, meditate, get sticky fingers.

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Alpine lounger, more mountain safety research.

While relaxing in the alpine loungers, we felt the glacier shift about 1 inch. I've felt glaciers move before, but every time it happens it gets your attention.

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Camp on the coleman glacier. the Direkt 2 is the tent de jour'.

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The north ridge is the left sky line, with the ice step about 1/2 way up, and the final serac wall near the summit. Coleman headwall is the steep face in the middle of the mountain, props to Ale and LizD, and any other snowboarder who has ridden that. The CD (coleman-deming) descent is the right side sky line.

We started the climb a bit after 4 am on firm neve' that was perfect for cramponing. We weaved in and out of crevasse fields, roped up with rescue coils over our shoulders. Crossing the glacier did not take too long, and we unroped at the base of the gully heading up to the north ridge.

Ryan expressed some concern about the bergschrund crossing at the bottom. We decided not to belay it mostly because we didn't bring pickets, and it wasn't hard enough for ice screws to be reliable.

Ryan popped his leg through and dangled from firmly planted axes for a quick minute.

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When we crested the north ridge, we met the rising sun. A full-on view of the ice step commanded our attention. After discussing the logistics for a minute, we decided Ryan would lead the first section, that included a 35 foot vertical section, cresting over left with a pseudo heel hook, and then continuing up a 55-60 degree glacier ice slab to a belay at a small ledge.

I would follow 1st pitch, clean and rack the gear, and lead the 2nd pitch, for a combined 100 meters of hard frontpointing.

Each belay consisted of the scariest, but most comfortable moments of the climb, hanging belays off of ice screws.

We didn't get too many photos on the technical portion of the climb for all the usual reasons, too pumped or scared to let go of your axes, or it was too cold to take gloves off for a long period of time.

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Following the 60 degree ice slab.

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At the belay contemplating the next pitch.

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Ryan and his solar shields.

The next pitch went fairly easy, except the bulge immediately above the belay. I quickly made my way to the last reliable ice patch and set up a three screw belay, hung back into my harness, and brought Ryan up.

From there one pitch of easy simul-climbing with occasional ice screws on unreliable ice blocks brought us to more mellow terrain leading up to the upper serac wall.

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Storing the rope after the simul-climbing pitch.

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At the upper serac wall you have three choices. Option #1, go left under the seracs and traverse around them, this is the preferred method. Unfortunately, the snow was fresh wind slab, and with no protection a small pocket sliding would send you over a large ice wall 20 feet below, to sure death. Option #2, go right around the seracs and traverse above the coleman headwall, a few thousand foot drop down to the coleman glacier. Option #3, climb the seracs.

We chose option 3 mostly because we knew there would at least be solid ice to anchor us to the mountain.

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I anchored in, downclimbed into the crevasse and set up a belay on the serac on the other side. We would climb right up this ice feature. Alpine ice bouldering at 10,000 feet!

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Ice arch and view of north cascades from the belay.

Ryan led the ice boulders, stemming from one serac to another, and mantling out onto a final ridge that revealed the summit. I followed with ice cold hands, and got the screaming barfies after the mantle move to get on top of the serac wall.

The belay at the top consisted of two planted ice axes, and skis x-ed up and shoved in the snow with webbing slung around them. Just like Aspen Extreme!

From here there was only one more obstacle. A 30 foot wide, 100 foot deep bergschrund sat about 50 vertical feet down from the summit plateau. There was a snow bridge though, about 10 feet thick and 10 feet wide, that spanned the giant void.

Ryan belayed me across on the ice ax-ski anchor, and when I was safely above the crevasse I set up a similar anchor and belayed him up.

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AAHH the summit. Now for the fun part!

We didn't get too many photos on the descent of the coleman-deming for all the usual reasons, too much fun too stop, or the snow was too good to stop.

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Slashing on the glacier.

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Air off of a small serac.

We made it back to camp so stoked. Much more research was conducted. We loaded up, shredded to to the snowline, fixed our flat tire, and got the hell out.

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 Post subject: Re: May 9-10th Mt. Baker North Ridge Climb and CD Descent
PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2011 4:27 pm
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Location: Rainier Beach
I love it, 'screaming barfies'!

Seriously nice climb guys, that looks grippin.


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 Post subject: Re: May 9-10th Mt. Baker North Ridge Climb and CD Descent
PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 6:28 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:29 pm
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Location: Tacoma,WA
Rad report Chris! Way to push it to the next level


I've been down south for a month working, and want to bag some volcanos this month. Hit me up if you're planning anything else up this way...I'm not set up for that ice climbing shit though :roll:

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 Post subject: Re: May 9-10th Mt. Baker North Ridge Climb and CD Descent
PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 9:10 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 8:29 am
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Location: Oregon
Sick trip, report and photos! \

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 Post subject: Re: May 9-10th Mt. Baker North Ridge Climb and CD Descent
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 12:07 am 
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Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 6:09 am
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Location: Torino, Western Alps
Very nice trip!! :thatrocks:

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 Post subject: Re: May 9-10th Mt. Baker North Ridge Climb and CD Descent
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 2:06 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2012 12:25 am
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
That is sweet. Good effort mixing technical climbing with what looks like an awesome ride out.


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 Post subject: Re: May 9-10th Mt. Baker North Ridge Climb and CD Descent
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 7:26 am 
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Location: The Magic City
Nice one Chris! Seems like a natural extension of your interests and abilities.

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 Post subject: Re: May 9-10th Mt. Baker North Ridge Climb and CD Descent
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 8:40 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2011 11:57 am
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Location: Above the clouds
Chris and Ryan, thanks for representing the mountains of Portland and beyond.

Ryan, nice work with that pocket sized camera! :thumpsup: Chris makes a great subject when dropping off seracs. :)

Chalk one up for team hardboot. I see a lot of hype on hardboots, but nothing to sway me from my vans. It's cool to see a trip report that I know my moon boots on steroids couldn't handle.

Way to walk the walk, climb the climb, and use that gear you own and carry.

Safe Travels, CR :doobie:


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 Post subject: Re: May 9-10th Mt. Baker North Ridge Climb and CD Descent
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 2:23 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2012 9:07 am
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Was up on the north ridge last wednesday. Climbed in a pair of Burton Imperials with Grivel aluminum strap crampons. They have a wide crampon that really inspires confidence that they aren't going to blow off. I had previously been using BD contact straps that would come off at random. Usually in the worst place possible. Seth


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 Post subject: Re: May 9-10th Mt. Baker North Ridge Climb and CD Descent
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 3:11 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2011 6:15 pm
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Location: mountains of portland, oregon
Fairieswearboots wrote:
Was up on the north ridge last wednesday. Climbed in a pair of Burton Imperials with Grivel aluminum strap crampons.


that is a brave move my friend. we had full on ice gear, i used cassin c14's.

maybe it was your footprints we followed high up, below the upper seracs? we could not tell if you went left or right around them, or if you bailed and rappelled down the ice wall?

your v thread we clipped into?

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 Post subject: Re: May 9-10th Mt. Baker North Ridge Climb and CD Descent
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 4:11 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2012 9:07 am
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Yeah. Sorry about the tat. We had three screws and a 30m rope. We're. Originally thinking about coming down the route but it is in a lot different condition then last year. The tracks toward the Roosevelt and the top were purely out of curiosity.


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 Post subject: Re: May 9-10th Mt. Baker North Ridge Climb and CD Descent
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 4:14 pm 
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Just reading back what I wrote and what you asked. We continued on diretissimo through the upper seracs.


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 Post subject: Re: May 9-10th Mt. Baker North Ridge Climb and CD Descent
PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 10:17 am 
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Joined: Tue May 22, 2012 4:06 pm
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Location: Bend, OR
Excellent work chris!


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