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 Post subject: Specs for a volcano board
PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 8:49 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2009 9:10 pm
Posts: 27
Hi Folks, one day soon I may have enough cash to commission a Volcano-board for the summer in Washington (state. Ha).
I've read everything on this forum and have come up with this. What do you think? Donek said he would do it, after a phone conversation for $850.

156 (ish) length (I',m 190lbs, but the snow is firm and weight is a factor, should turn easier, effective edge may be a problem)
255 waist (for boot-out with mountain boots)
12M (ish) radius (for edge grip on the steeps)
Trad camber (for good up-track skinning)
Taper.....I don't know about this????

No carbon, standard layup (to avoid chatter & keep the price down)

All comments would be excellent, and I'll duly report when my boat comes in and I get it made.
Thanks. Jake


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 Post subject: Re: Specs for a volcano board
PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 9:13 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2008 7:38 pm
Posts: 369
Location: Eugene and Coos Bay, Oregon.
I am still loving my 158 Prior BC split with the 11m sidecut and 245 wide (25 mondo boots). I am 145 pounds. I just had it out on Sunday and Monday here on a couple of Oregon peaks.

I run around 30 / 25 angles to avoid boot out. Make sure your width allows your boot to have very little overhang to no overhang at your normal angles.

At your weight, I would probably go a little longer than 156 to give you a bit more stable platform and a wider sweet spot on the edge. If you normally ride a shorter board then 156 might be fine.

Make sure the board has a decambered nose and tail to handle slush, suncups, and trees on the return. The decambered nose and tail will keep it from hooking as bad and it will keep the tail from catching the snow in turns, which can be really bad in the uneven snow in the trees.

You do not want too much camber on the steep and firm snow that is often encountered at the very top of the line on volcanoes. Especially when that snow is not smooth. To much camber generally means too much rebound and will bounce the edge off the snow sometimes. A touch of dampening would be good if it does not add weight. Sean's boards have traditionally been very lively so make sure that this board is on the less lively side to handle firm and bumpy snow when necessary.

My board has 4mm of taper and I am very happy with that. I might try 6 to 8 mm on the next iteration (with somewhere between a 12 to 14m sidecut). I have ridden the Khyber, 22mm of taper, a couple of times on the volcanoes and find it overturns and the tail will not lock back in quickly enough.

Have fun.


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 Post subject: Re: Specs for a volcano board
PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:32 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2011 4:27 pm
Posts: 583
Location: Rainier Beach
Very happy with my Venture for summer volcano riding in the PNW. In my mind these are the ideal boards for high speed summer lines on volcanos. Super damp at speed, and very stable and easy to skin with.


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 Post subject: Re: Specs for a volcano board
PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 9:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2009 9:10 pm
Posts: 27
Thanks again Buell for your input.

I think you are right about a longer board. if I go 158/9 it all begins to seem more reasonable, and useful as a single quiver board, which is my vibe.

My question relates to the camber.
I love fully rockered boards to ride down, but a very experienced fella I know stated a while ago that skinning up on a rockered board was difficult; He'd fall off the tail, and the tip on the uptrack....and this guy has done some miles.
Since so much time is spent on the uptrack...if anyone can shed some light on what it's actually like to skin up on a decambered board, I'd be really interested (I have an old 166 Voile).

But for now, I think right now I'd be smart to get back to Prior and follow Buell into a 158 wide, 13m radius, 7mm taper, trad construction with a decambered nose & tail. And paint it green too!
Dude, you rock. Thanks, still waiting on the cash-boat to arrive.


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 Post subject: Re: Specs for a volcano board
PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:32 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2008 7:38 pm
Posts: 369
Location: Eugene and Coos Bay, Oregon.
There are a lot of different camber designs that can fall under the basic description of decamber / early rise/ rockered tip and tail with camber between the bindings. Some are only for powder (K2 Gyrator), others are the top race boards in the world (Kessler, SG) meant to be ridden on hard snow race courses. Some will likely skin better than others. I have not skinned on a full rocker board but both my Priors with the decambered nose and tail and camber between the bindings skin just fine. Don't forget a whippet for skinning steeper frozen corn.

I only want to ride fully rockered boards with some taper in powder, but for volcano corn and firm, I think the decambered nose and tail with mild camber between the bindings is possibly better than full rocker.

Donek and Prior both build race boards and know how to get a board to bite and have solid edge hold. The boards they build will skin very well. Donek's quality is probably a bit better, but I prefer the feel of the Priors for my light weight. Sean has worked really hard on his designs since I last tried one so I need to try Donek's again. Keep those rails sharp.

Stoudema got a custom sidecut Chimera for the volcanoes. You might PM him to see what he thinks of it.


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 Post subject: Re: Specs for a volcano board
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 4:14 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2005 10:05 am
Posts: 1482
Location: Colorado
As I would expect, you are getting great advice from Buell, he is spot on here. If you plan on riding some serious steeps in the spring conditions, I would add that some/more taper can be a good thing, as taper makes it easier to get the tail around quickly. Lately I have found that a little more taper is a good thing for me. 4 mm is not quite enough, around 11 mm or more will probably be better; as one adds more taper one has to be careful about boot out on the rear foot though, so balance the taper with the overall width and your preferred stance angles.
For dealing with the inevitable bumpy snow, and cloudy conditions where it stays a little icy, anything your builder can do to add damping will be a good idea, and as Buell notes, early rise on at least the tip is a very good idea for more easily dealing with textured snow (sun cups, runnels, etc). In fact, I would pay special attention to where the sidecut blends into the tip shape: a gentle radius here can really help to avoid a catchy nose, allowing one to drift into the entry of turns more easily; nothing is worse than a tip which wants to hook up super fast and hard in the steeps, as it can throw one over the bars pretty quickly...

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 Post subject: Re: Specs for a volcano board
PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 12:04 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2009 9:10 pm
Posts: 27
That's all really good advice, thanks a million fellas.

I do wonder why there isn't a production 'spring' board. I know volcano riding is limited to folks who live near a volcano, but there isn't that much difference between a volcanic slope & normal spring conditions. Hmmm just my 2 cents. There are loads of largely similar boards out there, you'd think one of the many manufacturers would stick their neck out and build something new.


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 Post subject: Re: Specs for a volcano board
PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2008 7:38 pm
Posts: 369
Location: Eugene and Coos Bay, Oregon.
Snowboard design is stuck in a rut. You do need demand to build a product but the lack of variety in boards is amazing. There are so many boards produced under so many different brands but ultimately they are all very very similar. Start with a twin or directional twin, zero taper, sub 9m sidecut, add a hyped mix of camber / rocker, maybe some magnetraction, put some crazy graphics on it, market it aggressively, and ship it to the stores.

Fortunately, there are a handful of stand out companies.


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 Post subject: Re: Specs for a volcano board
PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 3:10 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2005 10:05 am
Posts: 1482
Location: Colorado
Yeah, what he (Buell) said!

It is getting a little better though. furberg, and Chimera are experimenting with shapes outside of the expected snowboard norm. Heck, I remember when the "genius" design engineer at Burton, "JG", told me I was mistaken to want taper in a board (the Fish came out two years later)….. So there is at least meager progress.
Right now I am testing a Chimera "Dum Dum" with a ~17 meter radius sidecut, and ~12 mm of taper.

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Never Summer Prospector 167X, furberg 173 DIY, Dynafit TLT5/6 Mountain , Phantom Bindings, BD Glidelite Skins
Quiver Killer inserts

http://protectourwinters.org/
http://14ersnowboardproject.homestead.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Specs for a volcano board
PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 9:39 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2012 10:32 am
Posts: 177
Location: Northern NM
barrows wrote:
Right now I am testing a Chimera "Dum Dum" with a ~17 meter radius sidecut, and ~12 mm of taper.


Any thoughts yet? I'm curious how you would rate the Dum Dum relative to the furberg... I have a couple of impressions but I'm not sure they are accurate, as I only rode the Dum Dum briefly.

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 Post subject: Re: Specs for a volcano board
PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 10:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2011 6:48 pm
Posts: 646
Location: Kodiak, AK
Venture Storm? Middle 1/2 of board has mild camber, each 1/4 end has rocker/early rise. It has taper, and comes in a lot of lengths and widths. Super damp. My Venture Zephyr is still my favorite deck to date, and this past weekend I did a lap on a friend's Storm. It rode great. Makes an excellent big mountain cruiser.

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 Post subject: Re: Specs for a volcano board
PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 8:29 am
Posts: 577
Location: Oregon
I'm enjoying my custom Chimera Mace I had made specifically as a volcano board. It's 161cm, with 11 m sidecut, and has no-wave camber (essentially flat base) and early rise tip and tail. I weigh in around 180 w/o gear and have size 9 feet. Kept with the standard waist width at 25.3 cm, and had Allister narrow up the tip and tail since I didn't need extra width for spring conditions on the volcanoes. With that said though, the board rides sweet in the pow, better than I expected for sure, credit probably due to the flat base. I agree with what Buell said earlier in the thread regarding the issues w/camber and steep slopes and rebound.

If you are looking for a board that will be an all around board I'd definitely suggest something bigger than 156 cm for your size, seems like 159-162 cm would be about right. And yeah, Buell lives in my neighborhood and I consulted with him extensively before pulling the trigger on this setup - thanks Buell. So far this board is my favorite splitty to date..... :)

Also, regarding the flat base - I haven't had to worry about any issues on the skin track for obvious reasons......

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 Post subject: Re: Specs for a volcano board
PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 11:50 am 
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Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 8:05 am
Posts: 1479
Location: 395
This thread has inspired me to get a custom board. I saw Donek was doing a full carbon board (he said in a video his 167 carbon split only weighed 7 lbs).
I sent him an email with these specs and am hoping he can build my dream board!

- 162cm
- 11m sidecut
- 8mm taper
- 25.7cm waist (I might be able to go wider due to bigger radius but want to keep it as narrow as possible for my 10.5 US feet)
- mild/flat camber (I only weight 140 lbs)

- Early rise nose and tail (less in tail) with the the radius tapering off where the effective edge of the camber ends to avoid a "catchy" nose. Sort of like Furberg's reverse sidecut on their nose and tails and some of the modern powder ski designs. This is going to be a more all around/volcano/steeps board that still rocks in powder. I don't want a lot of rebound in the camber and I want some good dampening too.
And I would like your full carbon to make light as possible (while maintaining some dampness)

This would sort of be a hybrid of a Winterstick ST 162 and a Furberg 162 (with a tad more taper)
I loved my old Winterstick ST 162 split but found it a bit too heavy.

We may not all agree on boots but we can agree on a good steeps/volcano board! :D

Actually, for me this would be a one board quiver deck. Not just a volcano board. I loved my winterstick in powder. It was just so damn heavy!

Donek has some new fancy edge bending machine. I wonder if he can do magne traction :scratch: (I love magne)

I'll update any further developments.


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