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After boarding in the French Alps riding all kinds of conditions, from hard pack, slush, powder and sheet ice. One of the tipclips worked loose and has snapped.

I have received a new clip and rivet, but could someone please let me know what tool I need to compress the rivet? I read in this thread that I could use a slider-track pin, but as I have Karakoram bindings I don't have one.
The problem I have found is that I can't find a company that sells the appropriate setting tool here in the UK, and when I search the net for semi-tubular rivet setting tool, I have limited results.

So could someone provide me with the name of the tool, and possibly a manufacturer for the tool I might be able to contact them and find out about availability?



Thanks

it just needs to be peened over...you can use anything that will fit, or just something flat like a hammer and dolly for body work.

A touring pin would work well like in that link due to the tapered head.

Hi thanks for the reply.

Searching the forum led me to the touring pin solution too, the only issue is I don't have one with my Karakoram bindings.

Oddly enough being an engineer myself I never knew the term was peened searching the net has led me to the tool name of Rivet Clinching tool.

Now I simply need to find a supplier of the tool at a reasonable price.

Bloody engineers! Just hit it with a hammer

Those tools are spendy and not really worth it for just one rivet. You can use just about anything to make this work, if you have a punch just grind the point so it's blunt. If the tip hits the bottom of the hole the end isn't blunt enough. Whack on it until it flairs and then with your hammer finish rolling it over.... A ball pein hammer also works if you have one laying around.

Since we're on a similar subject, what size drill bit should I use to drill out the rivets for my tip and tail clips?

I just did exactly this. Worked perfectly.

Check out this.
Easy, field repairable and much tighter than rivets...
This is just my



http://splitboard.com/talk/posting.php?mode=edit&f=16&t=10065&p=75504

The correct tool is called a Hand Rivet Clincher and they cost about $20. And is available from:
http://www.hansonrivet.com/w78.htm

The Jones Solutions uses a 3/16" rivet.

The tool works out to be £15 for me, but Hanson won't ship out of the country unless an order with a value of $150 is placed, so I am back at square one!

Do what Pedro did. Having them be field-replaceable is really nice. I did the same thing with mine, and actually had to replace one in the field. Somehow it broke on the skin up (must have pivoted out, and got hit by a rock or stepped on or something), and I noticed it as I was putting the board together at the top of a steep chute - not an ideal place to ride with a broken clip. Only took a few minutes to replace it.

Pedro - it looks like you mounted the clip on the bottom of the board in the pics above? Any particular reason for that? It seems like having the bottom as smooth as possible would be desirable. I actually used some of the same bolts used for the split hooks, and countersunk them into the base to make them flush.

Nope, screwhead on the base and bolt on the topsheet (and spares in my pack!). The B-Line boards (locally hand-made) had an aluminum piece on the tip & tail of the topsheet; not like some that have it on the base to gap the non-wrap-around edge. So in short the yellow is the topsheet and the black is the base.

Will the steel touring pin that comes with spark bindings work just the.same as the pin that comes with the voile DIY kit

If you're in the UK and you need the tool you can buy it from here:

http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-bodyw ... snaps.html