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 Post subject: why don't the adjustable pucks come with the voile split kit
PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 10:50 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2005 4:58 pm
Posts: 151
Location: Incline Village, NV
maybe i'm missing something here but i'm trying to do as much research as possible.

i watched the video on the voile site and those adjustable pucks look like a really cool idea. then i read the pdf about the split kit and doing it yourself, and instead of the pucks it comes with the nylon blocks, so once you drill for your stance distance and angles you are kind of stuck with that unless you want to drill again and fill the old holes? But if you buy a voile board that's been split by them it looks like they have holes pre-drilled for stance distance adjustments and you can easily adjust your angles with those pucks?

Am I understanding this right?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 11:24 am 
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Location: Incline Village, NV
called voile and got the info, i was reading it right.

the reason the pucks won't work is because the holes on a voile split board are different than what would be found on a solid board.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 11:31 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 3:11 pm
Posts: 122
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Yes. This is the single most attractive feature of a "proper" (and much more expensive) split, the ability to adjust your stance as conditions and preference dictated. A full-wrap edge and built-in inserts are other advantages, but the big one is what you just nailed.

It's possible to re-drill your stance, and in fact on the original Split Decision, you had to do so if you wanted to change it. (I know this only because a friend has an original SD... it should be noted that it does not affect his riding, he's one of the strongest snowboarders I've ever seen) But obviously this weakens the deck a little, and it's a pain in the ass. The pucks, on the other hand, are pretty trivial to adjust (up to about 45 degrees).

I finally caved and got a "real" split this season. Now I'm wondering why I didn't do so earlier. (Also switched to plates and AT boots for weight savings, but that is a whole other can of worms) IMHO, as soon as you get serious about multiday tours, the advantages of a production split and skins become obvious. (Crampons too, at least in the spring...)

If you can afford to do so, get a production split. If not, a home-built split is a cheap and worthwhile alternative, and you can always get a production model later on if it makes sense. Using your existing stance as a reference works pretty well for determining where to drill the slider pucks, just be sure to follow the Voile directions carefully and in order.

Give them a call if you have any questions, they are terrific people.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 11:36 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2005 4:58 pm
Posts: 151
Location: Incline Village, NV
thanks for the into ttriche. my plan was to spend about $300 on a winterstick TB and split that, but when I add up the cost for the board, split kit and skins I'm only about $100 off from what my local shop will sell me a new voile 173 freeride for, and probably at about the same price or more as I could find a used one for. I think i'm starting to lean away from the DIY and more towards a voile freeride.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 12:41 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2004 10:57 pm
Posts: 4958
Location: California
Riddle me this…


Q: Do you or do you not have to drill your board when making a home split.
A: Yes. (however you may or may not be able to use a couple of the existing inserts on the board depending on your stance.

So, if in most cases you have to drill the holes for the pucks anyway, why not just offer drill them in the same location as on the production splits so you can use the adjustable pucks? All the user has to do is drill the holes where the inserts are on a production splitboard. On a standard board the inserts are approximately 4mm a part, on a production splitboard they are approximately 8mm apart. If you drill the holes on the home split at this distance you'd be able to use the adjustable pucks and get the benefit of being able to fine tune your stance or change it based on conditions.

One last question. On the Split kit, it looks like there is 4holes per puck needed, are this supposed to be t-bolts or wood screws? On the suggestion I made it would require t-bolts but would only require two holes per puck.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 1:32 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 1:43 pm
Posts: 439
Location: Western Washington
bcrider wrote:
.

One last question. On the Split kit, it looks like there is 4holes per puck needed, are this supposed to be t-bolts or wood screws? On the suggestion I made it would require t-bolts but would only require two holes per puck.
Those are wood screws that you epoxy into place. I had a crash once where I broke the core of the board on one side, finished the day out on it, and never pulled a single screw on the pucks. Sometimes old inserts line up with the kit puck holes, and I'd use 'em, but no worries if not.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 1:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 10:25 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Vancouver Isl. BC
BCR has it right... as usual.
I asked a similar question earlier, before I went ahead with it.
I just finished a DIY split with the parts from my busted SD 166.
I just measured the insert spacing, from center, on the old SD and transferred them to the new board and used T-nuts. Also, they are far enough away from the original inserts that drilling is not a problem. So, as long as you don't mind some more holes all the way thru your board, I recommend the adjustable pucks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 1:51 pm 
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Location: California
Ok, so with the kit you drill a total of 16 holes into your board and don't have any future adjustability. *However, the holes are not t-bolts

The other option calls for only 8 holes and you do have the ability to make future adjustments.
*However, the holes require the use of bolts that go all the way through to your base.

I guess if you are absolutely certain on your stance setting option one is the way to go whereas if you want the adjustability option 2 is better.

Good stuff. :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 3:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2005 7:25 pm
Posts: 69
Location: idaho
are two t-nuts per puck enough? i'm curious about durability. stumpalama, have you had any problems? how long have you been using the DIY?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 4:59 pm 
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Location: California
butryon wrote:
are two t-nuts per puck enough? i'm curious about durability.


And on the flipside...are 4 wood screws enough? I guess that one is easy to answer becuase that is what the kit comes with...

If a production split only uses two t-bolted holes per puck, why couldnt a DIY?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 5:07 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 10, 2005 10:08 pm
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Location: Bend, OR
On my DIY, I used 2 t-nuts and two wood screws per puck. For some reason I think the t-nuts are stronger so I had extras and thre them in. I also called Voile awhile ago when the adjustible pucks came up on their web-site, same answer, they said I couldn't use them. I agree with bcrider, why not just order the diy split kit piece by piece and instead of the pucks that come with it get the adjustible ones and use t-nuts. I would love to be able to rock a different stance now and then depending on conditions


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2005 1:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 3:11 pm
Posts: 122
Location: Los Angeles, CA
bcrider wrote:
butryon wrote:
are two t-nuts per puck enough? i'm curious about durability.


And on the flipside...are 4 wood screws enough? I guess that one is easy to answer becuase that is what the kit comes with...


I tore my front right puck out of the deck (Osin 4807, wood core) descending Shasta last July, despite having 4 epoxied wood screws, and the Voile guys mentioned that some people (eg. carcass huckers, v. aggressive riders) have switched to ONLY using T-nuts for puck mounting.

So in my opinion, the answer to that question is "no".


Quote:
If a production split only uses two t-bolted holes per puck, why couldnt a DIY?


No reason, although it would be a very good idea to match up the placement of the holes on a production split so that you could drill your T-nut inserts into identical places. You don't get any stance adjustment unless you have multiple holes placed "just so".

An enterprising DIYer could totally make this work, though. It's a question of how much your time is worth, and how precise your work is, more than anything else. You're basically paying Voile a premium to mount the inserts correctly *then* put the P-tex on the base, and wrap the halves in a full metal edge. Considering that DIY splits were good enough for Cowboy and Jim Zellers in the beginning, I see no performance reason why they couldn't be made to work, it's mostly a question of whether you have sufficient free time to make the labor cheaper than the premium.

As always, the Voile people are quite forthcoming about this when you call, and they are the guys who build the parts, soooo....


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