Splitboard.com Forums

So Ive been reading alot about custom pucks, and moding deferent ones. People have asked before if the universal pucks would work on a Home made board. I wrote Voile and this is the answer I got.

Hey Tim-

So the short answer to your question is yes, but I would suggest using
the pucks that came with your DIY kit. Not that there is a huge
difference between the designs, but we did build them separately for a
reason, mostly which has to do with the strength of having a solid mount
with no moving parts. Less to go wrong if you know what I mean.


Kinda Vague answe,r but has anyone tried it, I dont see why it wouldent work?

i did the factory insert pattern on my diy and used adjustable pucks. I think quite a few people on here have done it. i went that way because i was also switching to hardboots and wasnt sure what my stance was going to look like. i have had no problems with mine, but i was very meticulous about the whole process.

the worst problem i had was with the canadian voile distributor (KellySport international, out of EDMONTON!?) refusing to sell me the pucks. I had such an effing battle with that guy, he was a complete TOOL. Soon after, i saw that voile started offering the universal pucks as a kit on their website.

heres my build thread. viewtopic.php?f=16&t=11782

i believe it was firstlight that had the factory hole template on his website

Calgary split
Do it, it works fine, just remember there are more holes.
Let me know if you need any help
If you cant get the pucks I can sort you out.
Cheers

look at the basics...

a DIY Splitboard needs some new holes at Universal kit and Cut Your old Board kit - that s fact.

the + point is the adjustibal funktion at the Universal kit. ( hooks and clips missed)

the best way is youse the orginal 4x4 holes and drill now new holes. make some custome pucks with the 4x4 holes and overlapend sliderpucks.

a good DIY Splitboard have only 4 new Insertholes


burton

I did it, and am going to build another one here in a few weeks. I found that my t-nuts are exactly the width of my deck (after taking very little wood with the from the base when drilling with the forstner bit). I sealed the holes I drilled with varurethane prior to insertion and when I drew the t-nuts down, they top of the nut was flush with the top sheet. They look identical to the original mounting holes.

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=12236

Your board looks slick, I ended up drilling four more holes for my DIY pucks, The problem/learning opportunity i had was when i originally built my board i placed my pucks at my freeride width not my powder.... Ugh, so i as well now went with a swiss cheese look haha, Thanks for the tips guys, my next build I will be going with the universal pucks for sure!

yep, done it, love it.

I went the universal route last year and will be again this year. Nice to be able to play around with stances on boards I haven't ridden pre-split/at resorts.

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=11681

Your epoxy job looks clean. How did you go about flattening down the epoxy holes flush? First time around I sanded them and had lots of traction from the sand paper around the hole.

Heh, I didn't. Some are a little concave, others are ballooned bit. It should probably go to a shop and get a stone grind, then I can wax it finally.... I don't notice it honestly. About the only time I see hard pack of any sort is skiing out on flat skin tracks.

"sandpaper around the hole " ...

I splurge and go for pillowy 3-ply...