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I've used spar urethane and it works ok, i need to reapply every season and fill the scratches and deep gashes with G-flex. Barrows technique sounds like the most bomber way to go...

From what i read on West's sight carbon powder is only for coloring and from their wording seems to have little effect on the strength of the epoxy. This season i might just go with G-Flex (i like the carbon tape idea though).

I think you may need to look a little deeper into the WEST site. The powder I referenced is used to provide a highly durable, and super slick low friction finish. It is often used on the rudders and centerboards of racing sailboats to reduce friction. Check out the videos as well, there is a cool video on the site of a guy laying up a skimboard using WEST materials. He coats the edges of the skimboard with an epoxy/graphite powder mixture in order to increase the durability.
G-Flex is not a good epoxy for coating purposes, as it is a high viscosity epoxy. For coating, one should use WEST 105, which is a much lower viscosity product. Take the time to really study the WEST system manual, it has a wealth of information.

I stand by my varathene / urethane recommendation. Easy, waterproof, durable and cheap. Available in brush-on or spray-on.

Looked at the 105 epoxy Barrows, this does look like the stuff to use, still need to read up on the "slick" carbon, but i like the sound of your process.

sorry guys ... but turn the time 100 years back...
the first skiers have no sidewall s no uhmpe ore abs ore xxx kunstoffmaterial.
the have only firnesoil, wax and good wood as core material.

the first years im my snowboard building - abs sidewalls , pu between the belts.... and ... and some difrent epoxid s with glassfiber rovings.

the best sidewall for a snowboard is a wood sidewall as , esche . the wood is lighter than kunststoff
and better to bonding to the core..... thats are facts.



the picture show a core in the bonding prozess with esche side walls.

all guy have fear for wood as sidewalls - the are stupid..... i wos 4 years stupid



Inside and outside sidewall s are no problem... this pictures shows a insidewall with 700mm insideedges... the board is made in the year 2008 - 4 years of riding and walking with short inside edges and wood side wall s. next step is 100 % wood from Tip to Tail


a report " DIY Seitenwangen versiegeln" wirten in german with some pictures:
the shows to cut, and primer with PU , and waxing all time with base serive
http://www.wildschnee.de/index.php?opti ... Itemid=277

cheers markus - and no stupid comants about my wirten

Nice work Burton, the steel edge does absorb a lot of punishment though.. An impact resistant inside edge is what i'm after, until i learn to inlay edge i'll go with something like Barrows method.

inside edges on a factory split is damped with a rubber foile, the ned it for bonding and (not) delamination problems. a custom split DIY ned a glue - resign thats bonding well and flex. at my last DIY split i used PU 2 compond glue from teroson. car body, bonded steel+ kunstoff as well. temeratur range - 40 + 120 ° very expensiv and you need a special gun for lay up and mixing.


cheers markus

I know I can get spar urethane at the store here but I have a can of this Minwax Polycrylic already.
Anyone use this? Will it work for what I need it to?

^ Negative, polycrylic is a marginal product at best for interior woodwork.

Ok, Thanks. Off to the store.