Splitboard.com Forums

Hi
Im looking at getting a custom splitboard made to the specs below (Im 5'10 90kg) and would appreciate any comments. Im from New Zealand, ride variable maritime conditions so have to be able to cope with ice, pow, crud and corn all in the same day. My current board is a 162 prior all mountain freeride and the spec are a combination of that, spearhead and kyber

Overall Length 1700
Running Length 1300
Nose Length 225
Tail Length 160
Nose Width 304
Tail Width 290
Waist Width 257
Sidecut Radius 9

Thanks
Matt

Stance Width
550

Stance Setback
25

Nose Height
65

Tail Height
50

Camber
15

Camber Setback
0

Looks like it will be a super fun board

My only question, coming from a person who has never built/designed a snowboard, would be wouldn't you want the camber (and sidecut radius for that matter) to be centered over your stance instead of actually center on the board?

Otherwise, this should be a fun board for sure. I have a spearhead split, and despite the fact that its much too small for me, I still have a lot of fun on the board. Your board sounds like it matched your size a lot better though.

Who are you having make the board if you don't mind my asking?

I would strongly suggest you contact Donek and work from one of their existing shapes. They allow you to modify their designs--length, width, sidecut radii and shape, stance width and position--free of charge.

Also, it will be important to get the thickness / stiffness profile right in order to make your desired board geometry work best for your riding style and weight; this is where much of the art of board design comes in. I can testify to Donek's ability to nail it based on Sean's querying of your riding style and your desired attributes of the board's ride.

Some thoughts:

Overall I think your specs point to a versatile and fun ride. I would suggest that you consider adding an early-rise shovel to soften turn-in in variable conditions and to facilitate float in pow. And unless you'll be riding tight trees most of the time, I suggest you also consider a longer radius sidecut, or long regressive sidecut (longish fading to longer radius from tip to tail) to your design; either will be more stable and well-behaved on steeps, ice and at higher speeds and will not detract from the ride in pow.

I also suggest you consider a de-cambered or flat tail (the last 10 or so cm of contact surface). It won't significantly detract from the board's stability at speed or on steeps, but, coupled with the taper, it will improve its maneuverability and help avoid tail hang-ups making for a more versatile ride.

With your design I'd pay attention to hooking. The further forward that camber (or thickness profile) is centered the more the board will require forward loading to behave well; how this works for you depends on your riding style. More forward-centered camber can also make the nose of the board prone to hooking at turn-in, which can be dicey on icy steeps or at speed. By using a short radius sidecut and fairly aggressive taper that together form a fairly sharp turn-in angle, this board's geometry is already hook-prone. An early-rise shovel and longer radius sidecut can help alleviate that.

This sounds like a really fun project--enjoy the process! Hope you guys are having a good winter down there.

@ matbase


your board dimension are no ok.... your waist is wrong - it is 253 mm

for a waist 257 you need 311 mm nose wide ore a mix between nose and tail wide +




cheers markus

Thanks for the feedback!

idtmcp542
Centering the sidecut to the setback makes sense and may also help reduce hooking as Taylor mentioned below? all depends on how the specs look when drawn up.

Taylor
Im working with and keen to support a new local splitboard manufacturer (splitn2.com), Im not specifically seeking a custom board it just that the full range of boards has not yet been developed/available.

I would like the stiffness to match my current board and intend to compare it to a previous Splitn2 board.
A shovel nose sounds great, as for sidecut would you feel a 9.5M or 10M radius would be better? or reduced taper? (BTW there is no tree riding in NewZealand=(. I have noticed hooking from previous boards (always had my stance as far back as possible when I lived in Canada for pow days) and have been spat over the front a few times when carving hard, much less so on my current board which is a lot stiffer/bigger side.

I'm not too keen on a flat tail due my ability to have a vicious tomahawk yet somehow ride away like nothings happened, I feel a flat tail might prevent a switch tomahawk recovery? I have made the tail smaller and lower much like my prior.

This technical feedback is very much appreciated!

Burton
The board hasnt been drawn up yet so getting the specs to actually match hasnt been sorted yet

Has anyone got any thoughts on camber? Im not sold on rockered boards so looking at negative camber.

Thanks
Matt

Definately set your camber back the same amount as the stance, this also give you more length to get a nice gentle up sweeping nose rather than a harsh short one. Im not sure how rich has set up his moulds but something like this can require a fair bit of work to set up for a custom board shape. A lot of guys have a standard nose and tail block they use which are usually pretty short and sharp.

hey this is a great way to get all the hard work done for me eh? Seriously I recon building the board is the easy part of the job, actually getting the design dialed is where the real work is eh.

For this design I would use my mildly cambered profile base with a new tip block cnc'd to suit, my current nose block is relatively short and steep and I do want to get some "early rise" in there with a longer gentler rise, but still cambered further back.

This is definitely a board I want to build, especially building boards in NZ for NZ conditions is a real buzz!

cheers
Rich