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 Post subject: Denali splitboard ascent/descent
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 9:49 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2012 12:35 pm
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Hi,

Lately I have been wandering the internet looking for answers on the quaestion which splitbord to use when tackeling the Denali.

Next june 2013 I will make an attempt conquering this stone sentinal of the north. I have allready went on 3 previous expeditions to the Elbrus, Kili and Aconcagua. To all I brought my board, besides Kili ( unfortunately), but never used a splitboard.

Perhaps somebody can fill me in on what board to use? I have a lot of snowboard experience, but no splitboard experience. Perhaps there are people here who allready went there on a splitboard, or maybe didn't even use a splitboard.

Hope to hear form y'all.

Thanks,

Guy.


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 Post subject: Re: Denali splitboard ascent/descent
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 2:28 pm 
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Location: Denver
Something good for big mountain conditions (variable, icy) that can support a heavy load while hauling to camps.

Something a bit on the stiffer side I'd say. I hope to do this as well someday, and would take my Venture Odin and for sure a hardboot setup. Using an AT ski boot that is warm and climbs well with crampons is key. Good luck conquering Denali though, may just want to climb it and slide down.

Though Im curious to see what others have used on big mountain riding. My feet would have to be amputated for sure if I used soft boots.

Any board that is reasonably stiff and can handle variable icy conditions should do the trick. Dont forget ski crampons for the uptrack.

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 Post subject: Re: Denali splitboard ascent/descent
PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 7:08 am 
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Location: Denver
Venture Odin and Neversummer Summit come to mind as two boards I would consider for that. The Neversummer SL might not be a bad choice either. It's the Heritage as split, not the SL, so it is stiffer. I don't believe it's as stiff as the Summit though.

Definitely go with HFT's advice on hard boots and ski crampons. I'm sure you already know this though.


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 Post subject: Re: Denali splitboard ascent/descent
PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 4:42 pm 
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Location: Colorado
Chimera Mace would be a solid choice. So would a Winterstick Tom Burt split (after all, he did make the first snowboard descent of Denali).
Stiffer is good, as you will always be carrying a bigger pack. But most important of all is reliability of the boot binding system-make sure everything is well tested and sorted, and carry spare parts for anything which could break. I used hard boots and supergaiters for my one Alaskan expedition, and would recommend that approach.
I'll sound like a broken record, but a shallower sidecut (long radius) is going to be a lot easier and safer to ride in the mixed conditions likely to be experienced in the high mountains of Alaska.

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 Post subject: Re: Denali splitboard ascent/descent
PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 7:34 am 
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Location: New Castle, Colorado
A couple years ago Lou Dawson's Denali Ski Mountaineering Expedition was a success. Much of their success was due to planning and gear selection. In particular, the selection and fitting of AT boots (hard boots) for their expedition:

See: Fitting Ski Boots For Denali — Today, ZZero
http://www.wildsnow.com/2234/ski-boot-fitting-denali/

http://www.wildsnow.com/backcountry-skiing-search/?cx=partner-pub-8093284038752434%3Ayxtlw7-4zut&cof=FORID%3A11&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=denali&sa=Search+WildSnow

I would have the splitboard-transition down, since speed = safety in Mountaineering, see: http://splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=11996

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 Post subject: Re: Denali splitboard ascent/descent
PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 7:47 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2012 12:35 pm
Posts: 3
Thanks for the usable advice!

The cold will definitely become a hazard, I allready encountered this on aconcagua on my soft boots.. So I will go for ht ehard boots which will fit crampons better.

Keep the tips coming!


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 Post subject: Re: Denali splitboard ascent/descent
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 12:06 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:31 am
Posts: 119
Location: Fairbanks, AK
it has been a long goal of mine to climb Denali, whether I do it with or w/o a board, I dunno.

I don't have advice for you but look forward to your expedition and write up...a year from now :)


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 Post subject: Re: Denali splitboard ascent/descent
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 2:33 am 
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Location: new zealand
Killclimbz wrote:
Venture Odin and Neversummer Summit come to mind as two boards I would consider for that. The Neversummer SL might not be a bad choice either. It's the Heritage as split, not the SL, so it is stiffer. I don't believe it's as stiff as the Summit though.

Definitely go with HFT's advice on hard boots and ski crampons. I'm sure you already know this though.



The Summit split is actually less stiff than the SL split, but more damp, according to their website. Summit split: flex = 4, dampening = 8.5
SL split: flex = 5.5, dampening = 7


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 Post subject: Re: Denali splitboard ascent/descent
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:14 pm 
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I hope you have experience on skis. I haven't been but I'm sure you'll find yourself in technical situations on the ski ascent. Of course you can switch over to crampons to climb I'm just sayin' Denali's a big hill to start splittin. Good luck!

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 Post subject: Re: Denali splitboard ascent/descent
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 6:10 pm 
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Location: the jungle
soo you want to splitboard the highest mountain in the US? and.. youve never used a splitboard before? something about that fact, and the fact that youre expecting to need a year to prepare makes me think you really do not have the technical knowledge and mountaineering experience denali requires. you ever ride rainier? any peaks in alaska for that matter?

not trying to discourage you but only two professional snowboarders i know of have completed this feat. either youre some sort of unknown prodigy, or youre in over your head. denali is frigid, merciless, and prone to avalanches 12 months of the year. let me know how it goes dude

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 Post subject: Re: Denali splitboard ascent/descent
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 7:36 pm 
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nordicbordn wrote:
soo you want to splitboard the highest mountain in the US? and.. youve never used a splitboard before? something about that fact, and the fact that youre expecting to need a year to prepare makes me think you really do not have the technical knowledge and mountaineering experience denali requires. you ever ride rainier? any peaks in alaska for that matter?

not trying to discourage you but only two professional snowboarders i know of have completed this feat. either youre some sort of unknown prodigy, or youre in over your head. denali is frigid, merciless, and prone to avalanches 12 months of the year. let me know how it goes dude


Nordic, perhaps you are being a little overly harsh here. The OP has high altitude, very cold conditions mountaineering experience already (Aconcagua). The climbing season on Denali is May/June, so he has all of next winter to dial in his splitboarding technique if he intends to attempt Denali next season. A full season of splitboarding seems totally reasonable to learn how to skin, and I assume he is already an accomplished snowboarder as far as descending skills go. For very many people Denali is their first Alaskan mountaineering experience, and many of these folks are successful. I would not be so discouraging here, the only way to learn how to expedition in Alaska is to do it.

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http://protectourwinters.org/
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 Post subject: Re: Denali splitboard ascent/descent
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 9:24 pm 
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Location: New Castle, Colorado
Thread Drift....

I am wonder what are the steps for crevasse rescue? In particular I am wondering if you are the splitboard rescue-e . AKA You fallen into the crevasse, and and you climbing partner(s) have self-arrested your fall. You hanging in mid-air and the crevasse floor is 100 meters down and the crevasse wall is 20 meters away.

How does one manage getting-out your split-board bindings, (both in tour-mode and ride-mode),

So do does your choice bindings become an important factor in mountaineering?

Do you wear ski-leashes?

Can you get out of the bindings, or pull the tour pin?

How does one manage not losing your splitboard and equipment and securing it?

Keep in mind the most difficult part of crevasse rescue for the rescuee, is the over hanging edge of the crevasse. So you cannot have a yard sale hanging about in this situation.


Skier Falls into Crevasse - Hangs by one toepiece


Another point is managing transition when using skins and splitboard crampons in steep, exposed icy terrain . How easy is to change-out or install the splitboard crampons. Voile you have to remove the binding, tour-pin, then install all the above. Whereas the Dynafits. The crampons slide right in to the toe piece binding.


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 Post subject: Re: Denali splitboard ascent/descent
PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:38 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2005 10:05 am
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Location: Colorado
Powder_Rider wrote:
Thread Drift....

I am wonder what are the steps for crevasse rescue? In particular I am wondering if you are the splitboard rescue-e . AKA You fallen into the crevasse, and and you climbing partner(s) have self-arrested your fall. You hanging in mid-air and the crevasse floor is 100 meters down and the crevasse wall is 20 meters away.

How does one manage getting-out your split-board bindings, (both in tour-mode and ride-mode),

So do does your choice bindings become an important factor in mountaineering?

Do you wear ski-leashes?

Can you get out of the bindings, or pull the tour pin?

How does one manage not losing your splitboard and equipment and securing it?

Keep in mind the most difficult part of crevasse rescue for the rescuee, is the over hanging edge of the crevasse. So you cannot have a yard sale hanging about in this situation.


Skier Falls into Crevasse - Hangs by one toepiece


Another point is managing transition when using skins and splitboard crampons in steep, exposed icy terrain . How easy is to change-out or install the splitboard crampons. Voile you have to remove the binding, tour-pin, then install all the above. Whereas the Dynafits. The crampons slide right in to the toe piece binding.



The intracacies of crevasse rescue techniques are too broad of a topic to go into here. Learn the techniques from books first (the classic: Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills) and then perhaps take a class as well. Make sure you practice rope ascending with the same gear you will use (I like tiblocs for lightweight ascenders) before you leave on an expedition, and get your techniques down: hanging 30 feet down in an Alaskan crevasse is no place to learn how to use your gear.
Yes, I recommend leashes for anyone splitboarding in terrain where crevasse falls are likely, and make sure the leashes are designed so they are easy to clip into your harness as well.
BTW, on the normal routes on Denali you do need to be prepared for crevasse falls, as they are possible-but the route is travelled so much, that crevasse falls are very unlikely. Now if you plan on heading through the valley of death to the base of the Cassin or South Face, that is another story.

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Never Summer Prospector 167X, furberg 173 DIY, Dynafit TLT5/6 Mountain , Phantom Bindings, BD Glidelite Skins
Quiver Killer inserts

http://protectourwinters.org/
http://14ersnowboardproject.homestead.com/


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