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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:19 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2004 10:57 pm
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Location: California
Got my first edge damage on the Mojo 161. :(

Granted we haven't have the deepest of conditions but I cant help but think if a sidewall would have prevented the damage.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:49 am 
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Location: Neast
any chance on getting a shot of the ding?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 12:46 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 8:41 pm
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Mumbles wrote:
Set up was smooth and took only a few minutes. I found setting the stance and angles pretty simple and now run just about the same angles and width as on my Burton Custom split 165.

Lucky you. I spent forever trying to get the same stance position I had on the Burton, and gave up. Could only get "close".

Quote:
I left the 130mm tractor skins the full length hopefully I can fabricate some sort of tail loop/strap as my previous voile skins seemed to adhere very poorly at the tail end.

You could probably stick an STS tail attachment on there, then drill a hole in the end of the board for the STS tailpiece. That and other ideas here:
http://www.splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=1845

Quote:
I did note some slight slop as I rocked my forward (left) AT boot. The slop is actually with the slider and pucks. Is there any way to reduce this?

http://www.splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=2180


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 5:02 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2007 1:12 am
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Location: PNW Hood Canal
jimw,
Thanks for those two DIY links. I'm working on the tail connection issue for my skins and those gave me some good ideas. I have a couple of tip/tail loops that might work nicely once I find a stretchable strap to connect them to the end of the skins.

The link about the slop did not address where I was finding slop though, and I had seen SanFrantastico's extra bolts through the base plate mod before. My slop is that the slider plate fits over the pucks but there is a bit of slop when I torque the boots in the bindings between the puck and slider plate. I'm wondering if I can mash the slider plate groove that overlaps the pucks with my vice, if the metal is too tough to do that, or if there is a better way.

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Mumbles...addicted thanks to sb.com
Mojo 171 / ST 178 / C-Split 165 / DIY Johan 162
Sparks Ignition II's / Mr. Chomps
DC Torch / Lowa Structura EVO AT


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 12:00 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 2:51 am
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Location: Melbourne,Australia
Has anyone had any problems with the Mojo 161,i'm looking at buying,Aus conditions can be marginal and i need a tough board.
Thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 11:08 am 
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Location: PNW Hood Canal
AUS,
One of the key differences with the mojo is the cap construction. That makes them light, my 171 weights the same as my burton 165, but many have said the durability concern of cap is a question. I think personally that the slant sidewall construction seems burlier and would last better. I like my mojo, but for marginal conditions I'm planning on using the older burton.

_________________
Mumbles...addicted thanks to sb.com
Mojo 171 / ST 178 / C-Split 165 / DIY Johan 162
Sparks Ignition II's / Mr. Chomps
DC Torch / Lowa Structura EVO AT


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 2:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2006 8:59 am
Posts: 549
Location: Stowe, VT
It seems like some people have had trouble with their Mojo's, but Voile has been way cool about helping them out. If, in fact, they have had some quality issues this year, I think one of two things will happen. Either next years splits will be dialed because they have had an opportunity to work the kinks out of the system, or in '09/'10 we will see a new model that takes into account what they learned from the Mojo design. My bet is on the first one, but you never know.

Ausplit, if I were you, I would be doubly concerned since I'm guessing that any warranty work would take much longer due to shipping and customs. If price is no object, the NS boards seem to be as bulletproof as anything available. If it is okay for you to be without a split for a while (anything can, and eventually will, break.) then you'll certainly be able to find a better deal on a Mojo than anything else, as long as it's shipped from the northern hemisphere, where our season is starting to wind down. Finally, if you have good access to beater boards, maybe the best option for you would be to order the split kit? That way if you taco your board, you can pull the parts off and throw them on a different board relatively painlessly.

Hope this helps,
Shep


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 2:25 pm 
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Location: California
Shep wrote:
It seems like some people have had trouble with their Mojo's,


Not me, who? I remember hearing about people's Mtn. Guns delaming and being replaced with Mojos but not to many problems with Mojos themselves.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 3:33 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 4:53 pm
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Location: Mountain Town, BC
40+ days on my mojo 171 and I've had no issues at all with the construction. All "damage" has been merely cosmetic.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:24 pm 
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Location: Stowe, VT
Ecobrad, I believe you are correct. I was confusing the reports. It seems like I might've heard *one* story of a failing Mojo, but that might've been a very early proto even. At any rate, I think my original statement stands to anyone nervous about the strength of cap construction. Voile will either make it work just as well as sidewall construction, or change the construction of their boards. What they will NOT do, based on the info from this board, is leave anyone hanging with bad customer service. :)

Thanks,
Shep


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:43 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 2:51 am
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Location: Melbourne,Australia
Thanks for the reply's.I don't want to cut 1 of my solids,i would rather sell to finance a new factory made split.
The search continues,i will probably go with a s series as the next cheapest option.
Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 6:40 am 
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Location: Stowe, VT
I apologize if you are already aware of this, but an S-series is only cheap if you already have skins and hardware. If you can find some cheap, it's about break-even. If you pay full retail, you end up paying more than the for the Mojo. However, given Burton's size, they might end up having better warranty turn-around time in the eastern hemisphere. (I know they have a major presence in Japan, so perhaps warranty work would go through there instead of N. America)

Best of Luck,
Shep


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:44 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2006 7:08 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Durango, Colorado
I've read all the personal reviews on this thread about the Voile and haven't seen any real concerns. So I will have to put my .02 in. I ride a Unity dominion Split and one of my touring buddies rode the Mojo. I am 6'0" at 180# and I can usually muscle any board around if need be. My buddy is about 160#. he was really disliking the Mojo so one day I offered to switch with him. Skinning was good, no difference. But once I straped in to ride it i noticed right away how stiff it was. It took a bit of effort to turn. Not nearly as buttery smooth as my Unity. I didn't say anything to my buddy but when he first got on mine he said WOW now thats what I'm talking about. We rode the whole couloir and I figured it out and was able to ride it comfortably. I imagine someone heavier would do even better. At the end my buddy says he's selling the Mojo. It's not nearly as buttery smooth as the Unity. But Unity's are hand made and attention to detail is big.

He bought a Prior (no Unity's made this year) and thinks its much much better.

As far as the capping, no problem. Its strong enough. But I assume this is their way of keeping up with the other boards out there. Boards are lighter and lighter every year. So a 171 new Voile had better be as light or lighter than an older 165. Has anyone felt the Ride Concept UL, WOW!


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