It's not the board, it's the wax. Any board will ride slow with the improper wax. Hulling goes away after bindings are mounted, or else the bindings would not mount. The gap in inconsequential and minimal.
Edit to add: Method mentions that the base of his board does not seem to be as smooth as his solid. Guessing that this may be due to where the k-clips are mounted, maybe a little less than flush with the base. I was thinking about ptexing these to see if it would stick. I guess the base of a split will never be as "smooth" as a solid because the damn thing is cut in half and there is a metal edge running down the middle. Beveling the inner edge might help reduce drag on the snow I suppose. Honestly though, I would think that a fresh coat of wax, dialed in to the snow temp, would help more than anything.
Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2011 4:08 am Posts: 128 Location: Melbourne, Australia
yarrr, of course there's gonna be more drag than a solid as you mention (k-clips, inside edges etc), but i've got that biatch waxed twice (also some p-tex, hit the only rock in japan i think!) and the base just feels really, really dry. When I said "slow", I meant the base. Maybe the base is still absorbing the wax, dunno.
Heading back up to japan tomorrow, so we'll see how it goes...
The solution is my 3rd splitboard (Voilé ST178 & Mojo RX are my previous board) and I LOVE the board - it's great for freeride, handles most crappy snow conditions and extremly stable when you decide to go straight the 50 degres couloir
I've seen Jones next year hardware (in France/La Clusaz (Snow avant premiere)) and heard about a carbon flagship but nothing about a carbon solution - which would also be great for weight savings.
Tell me if you know more so I can start saving for next year
Great! I'm looking forward a 164 carbon Does limited numbers means : - It will be only available in the US? (I live in EU...) or - It will be only available online through few selected shops? or - Only a few pieces available so 1st arrived 1st served - which means I have to purchase early oct/nov...
Joined: Sun May 08, 2011 9:57 pm Posts: 62 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Picked up this years Solution in the 163 W size. First thing I noticed was the gap between the halves of the board. While the gap is pretty small and inconsequential, I think I was expecting the board halves to some how "jigsaw" together with the magnetraction. Using the Spark blaze bindings on it and am really happy with how it rides. Such a nice snowboard shape. Floats good in pow and the magnetraction really helps when its icey. Little bit disappointed in the construction though. The top sheet chips off easily, especially if you cross skis while skinning on a narrow skin track. Also the metal edges of the board all seem to be different lengths. Doesn't affect board performance just aesthetics but considering how much it cost to buy all this stuff should have been smoothed out.
These things aside, the solution is really nice to ride and tour in most conditions. Really tempted to get the flagship for my solid board now too. A carbon solution? Wow. Will be interesting to see how much it weighs in at and how it rides in crud.
My solution arrived at a time when we were having quite cold weather, I only had one week before I had to return to work for another week so I wasn't about to let the weather get in my way. I went out on four days in temperatures between -29 to -34c I applied a good quality wax with a teperature rating suitable for the weather, obviously I didn't expect too much glide at those temperatures but was still suprised at the complete absence of glide! I am soon to be released back into society (from work in North Lapland) and hope to get some fairer weather to try out the glide again.
I have a 2012 solution, same issues top sheet, but its a snowboard and it will get beat up. No gap what so ever. I am running KK sl, they are nice but I carry a brush to clear snow.People seem to be up in arms about the subject. Carry a brush. I carry two sets of skins, narrow and wide, makes life better time to time. People are having problems with this board gliding. Mine hauls ass, here is what you have to do. the base comes dry and in need of some work. if you have a friend who is a ski racer give him your board and have him work it over. if not.. get a metal board scraper, give a few times over with that, than hit it with a wire ski tuning brush go the length of the board. clean the base with base cleaner. Wax the board with Base prep wax. cool for 5 mins scrap it with a plastic scraper. heat the wax up do it again. scape all the wax off with the plastic scraper. wax with a all temp wax. if you know your wax for your area than great. wax the board cool for 5 or so, remove most of the wax. ( do not drip the wax.. apply the wax to the iron than to the board. You will use less wax and have a deeper wax. scrap hit with brushes and you are done. the board will fly!
People are having problems with this board gliding. Mine hauls ass, here is what you have to do. the base comes dry and in need of some work. if you have a friend who is a ski racer give him your board and have him work it over. if not.. get a metal board scraper, give a few times over with that, than hit it with a wire ski tuning brush go the length of the board. clean the base with base cleaner. Wax the board with Base prep wax. cool for 5 mins scrap it with a plastic scraper. heat the wax up do it again. scape all the wax off with the plastic scraper. wax with a all temp wax. if you know your wax for your area than great. wax the board cool for 5 or so, remove most of the wax. ( do not drip the wax.. apply the wax to the iron than to the board. You will use less wax and have a deeper wax. scrap hit with brushes and you are done. the board will fly!
I too have noticed on my Flag that the base seemed to shed the wax very quickly. Part of this is due to conditions, but you're right in that I didn't due a full base prep due to being out of base cleaner. Thanks will remind myself to due this next time.
To give my solution every benefit of the doubt, I re-did the wax job with a proper prep and finished with a LF glide suitable for the sudden subtropical temperatures of -6c. Intrestingly, while waxing I noticed that the graphics on the base of the board actualy are on top of the base, when running the scraper or a thumb nail over the graphics you can feel and hear the click! I compared this to my wifes solution but that did not have the raised graphics, she has the 158, I have the 161. I went and tried the newly waxed board on my local hill, there is no artificial snow on the groomed slopes and today there was a few cm's of new snow, perfect conditions to try out the glide. I can now say with some confidence that this board will never be a top glider! Apart from that, the board was fairly pleasant to ride, quick turning and nimble, it actualy felt lighter than my Neversummer premier, although it is a couple of hundred grams heavier. In the deeper snow though, in comparison to my premier it felt like a snow plow rather than a surfer. All in all, I guess I will keep this board for the remainer of the winter but either get a neversummer split (as I originaly intended but that's not so easy in Europe) or go back to snowshoeing and carrying the board.
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2011 6:48 pm Posts: 672 Location: Kodiak, AK
I have seen some boards where the "graphics" were cut outs of different colored base material that fit together perfectly. My wife's old Palmer was like that. A good base grind should bring the pieces flush, if that is in fact what's going on.
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