Long story short my Arbor Abacus started to split at the side wall directly under the heel riser. I emailed Arbor and it will be warrantied BUT they don't have any Abacus' left in stock so I'm going to have to wait until mid-October to get a new one. I was originally so pissed that I immediately went online to buy a Furberg split or the Never Summer Prospector but they are both sold out too it looks like. So now I think I'm going to just try and epoxy up the crack (per Arbor suggestion) and ride it for the rest of the year.
I've got some pretty big plans for this spring so I'm wondering if anyone has ever fixed up a cracked board and had success with it? The crack is really pretty small and hasn't spread too much from the sidewall yet. Looks like it might just be an issue with that soft shitty bamboo they've used for their sidewalls.
If you have experience filling cracks I'd really like to know what epoxy you used and if you have any helpful hints.
Use a knife and get as much resin in as you can then clamp and in a heated room. Tape off top sheet if you dont want to worry about clean up. Any epoxy will work . Araldite would work, Its also something good to carry for long muti day trips.
rideak, I'd try to scrape chisel, dremel out the shattered wood a bit first either enlarging the cracks or removing the cracked wood entirely. dry the wood out with a hairdryer. let it stand for a bit. Take a bit of fiberglass that you cut up into 1/8 inch shards and set that aside. Mix up the two parts of epoxy. separate it into two little cups. hit the board with a hairdryer so that the wood is about 100F, then start to put the epoxy in the cracks so it is runny and flows in. add some, wait repeat. mix the chopped fiberglass with the other cup of epoxy so it makes a paste and use that to fill in the space where you removed the damaged wood. once you have it filled up you can take some clear packing tape and wrap that over the patch so it finishes easy with minimal or no sanding. give it a little heat if you are in a cool room. after a few hours you can give it a lot of heat to get a good cure of the epoxy. G-FLex is a good epoxy for repairs if you don't know anyone with any of the toughened type resin used in mfg. If you want to get fancy, a boat shop will have color additive to make the patch a solid color instead of a clearish yellow that will go ugly brown-yellow in time. you add a few drops to your epoxy after you mix the two parts.
Arbor should be able to get you a replacement board, if they don't have one on-hand they should be able to get another from one of their dealers. I have had other companies do this, and it is good customer service. Telling a customer that they cant get a warranty replacement board until next year is totally unacceptable!
Companies that actually press their own boards would not do this but Arbor contracts out their manufacturing...
PS: The squeaky wheel gets the oil! Don't let them off the hook!!!!
_________________ Talking about snowboarding is like dancing about architecture...
Hikeforturns:I really wanted the 160 as I am by no means a big guy (5'9'' 155lbs) and believe it or not, while I do live in Alaska, most of my lines aren't big mountain, deep powder charging so I'd rather stick to a shorter board if it's going to be my permanent board.
Scooby2: Thanks for all the detail. Fiberglass is a good idea as I'm kind of worried about the glue holding up to extended touring.
Pedro: Talking to the Arbor rep yesterday it sounds like they are making some good improvements as far as durability goes on their 2015 Abacus so I think I'm going to try to skate by with my cracked board and wait for the 2015 Abacus. If it continues to crack though I will definitely heckle them more though!