Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 11:31 pm Posts: 590 Location: ca. - sierra
soy feliz. soy contento ahora y ahora para todo mi vida, por MI TIERRA es PERU! SOY Peruano ahora, se dicen me "extranjero " pero yo vivo in puerto chicama ahora. y todos compadres de splitboard.com mi casa su casa! solomente enviar me un correo electronico por favor primero....
no mas estados unidos para dabie. solomente para viaje y quedar con mi familia.
voy a volver in abril para recojer todos mis cosas en los angeles and maneje a peru en mi camioneta. es muy possible qiero un mas renuion con mis compadres de la sierra, por favor si tu tienes tiempo in abril piensen de un dia para fiesta y correr un grande sierra cumbre, si hay suffciente nieve.
para ahora MI VIDA CONTINUAR....
when the waves are not good at chicama i go north to this spot, nobody surfs here. its very tranquilo and i enjoy passing the days here with my girlfriend and close friends. also getting really friendly with the locals and in this lagoon is very calm and warm water. today i gave my 1st surf class to a few kids from the nearest town, san pedro de loc. then they took me out in a caballito de totoro. pretty fun time!
when surfing all day here i look at these peaks - cerros de _______ and then i finally get the idea to subir one. the views are incredible up there, and very puro aire!
you usually have to get this spot early cuz its exposed to the winds so i never really surfed it in my time here before but now i am drawn here day in day out. in the summer the winds are a LOT lighter, and the past few days has been glassy which is incredibly rare - and speacial.
the water is very warm and sometimes i trunk it but usually i wear a thin fullsuit just to cover up from the very strong summer sun. also i brought 4 more boards with me this time so i have a nice selection to ride. its fun to catch a few waves on one tabla, and after walking back out to the top of the point i stop at my truck and change tablas. here im on a 5-8 epoxy, been going smaller lately.
its like my own personal point break, and i am happy to see other surfers....
this is a 6-1 tufflite rusty i got for 125$ well worth it, for this ride alone!
a few shots of me at pacasmayo - about 20 mins up the beach to the north. this spot is even more exposed than puemepe and always big when there is well.
another view from up on the mountian over 20 miles to the south, direct or puro playa is chicama. i want to make a dune buggy for cruising the beach, its quicker and more efficient on fuel mileage as well. there are four epic spots you can drive to them all from the beach, all left points.
and some more shots from my left point from yesterday at sunset. the surf report says 3-4 right now but there is a bit more size on some of them here...
long exposure after dinner with no lights after sunset, yesterday. surfed again today all day there till sunset. gonna chill out for a bit then head up to huaraz for un rato.
more later.....and no more apologies from me for surf trip reports your gonna have to suffer a bit till its winter here in the southern hemi then a guarantee a ton of snow stoke while you all are soaking in the heat! ok so for now CHAO nos vemos cuidate vaya bien!
Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 11:33 am Posts: 179 Location: Auburn, CA
Felicidades Peruano! Buen suerte en su traslado. Estoy rezando para neve in la Sierra Nevada de California ahorita. Si los dioses me eschucan, y no son crueles, te vere en unos meses.
Man my spanish is Rusty. In case that doesn't say what I think it does...Congrats and good luck with the move. I'm praying to the snow gods right now for snow in the sierra nevada. If the gods can hear me and aren't cruel, I'll see you in a few months.