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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:11 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 5:07 am
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Location: Montana
I lost that same nut on the toe strap yesterday - robbed the front nut off the screw that holds the heel-cup to the base plate...since it's a U-screw you only have to have 1 nut there to function & it saved the trip.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:35 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2006 12:25 pm
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Location: Madison Range, MT
No loss of nuts or hardware for me but this is my reminder to head down to the merc and get some loctite and extra nylocks nuts today.

I also had a notion about perhaps using a thin and small flat washer to go against the strap coupled with a split ring washer between the nut and flat washer as opposed to loctite - has this been tried/explored?

nonetheless, still loving this system with no mods whatsoever.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 1:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 3:00 pm
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Location: Northern CA
karma surf wrote:
Impossible to put the rear foot pin in when you run a + angle on the back foot- the climbing bar block is in the way (not an issue for a duck rider).


If I ride a 3-6 degree + angle on my back foot, is this going to be an issue? Is this too much of a + angle for this pin? What about stance width... does that have any baring on the pin interference with the climbing block?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 1:45 pm 
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Location: California
karma surf wrote:
I run my pins opposite of the way the Sparks guys set them up


WHY? Do you just like going against the grain? :)

karma surf wrote:
Impossible to put the rear foot pin in when you run a + angle on the back foot- the climbing bar block is in the way (not an issue for a duck rider).


The Sparks pins are left and right specific...I'm not even sure how you would flip flop them due to the angle of the pin. The spark pins enter the binding from the outside, not the inside. So if you run the pins correctly you shouldn't have any interference with the climbing bar block.

Yoda, no worries assuming you use the bindings and pins as designed.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 1:47 pm 
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Location: California
Will wrote:
Are those burton parts thicker so you couldn't fully get the nut on there?


Just slightly. I lost a turn or two of thread but thats it. Locktite and a little longer screw will be an easy fix (assuming I get off my lazy ass and do it). :)


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 5:15 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2005 8:29 pm
Posts: 208
Location: Bermuda Triangle
The Sparks bindings I received came stock with the slider pin leashed to the inside of each binding. You guys are reading toooooo much into it (BCR/Yoda). Run the pins whatever way you want, but they will not run from the inside on the rear foot with someone who has + degree stance on the back foot. The climbing block will always be in the way. Since the pins are L/R specific, either both pins need to run from inside out, or both from outside in, not too difficult.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 5:27 pm 
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Location: Madison Range, MT
karma surf wrote:
The Sparks bindings I received came stock with the slider pin leashed to the inside of each binding. You guys are reading toooooo much into it (BCR/Yoda). Run the pins whatever way you want, but they will not run from the inside on the rear foot with someone who has + degree stance on the back foot. The climbing block will always be in the way. Since the pins are L/R specific, either both pins need to run from inside out, or both from outside in, not too difficult.


This is true, my pins were installed on the inside of the binder as well and I had to back off the angle on my back foot to get an angle where the pin wasn't obstructed by the climbing wire mounting block.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 2:39 pm 
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karma surf wrote:
Run the pins whatever way you want, but they will not run from the inside on the rear foot with someone who has + degree stance on the back foot.


You made an oxymoron. :)

You can't run the pins whatever way you want if you run angle in your rear foot.

To be honest, I forgot the pins came installed on the inside since I removed the leashes so quickly. As I think about it more, when I set the board up and installed them from the inside they did get hung up so I installed them from the outside and haven't looked back.

I guess I'm wondering why you haven't done the same and insist on installing them from the inside? :wink:

karma surf wrote:
not too difficult.


speak for yourself! :P


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2006 12:16 pm
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Location: Bozeman MT
These pins are designed primarily to install from the inside, as my leashes are different. I'm actually using the flex of the toe strap as part of the leash length, and a short run of cord to give enough room to pull the leashes out. The goal is a leash that doesn't have any slack when you're strapped in for both modes, so there's nothing to get snagged.

Here's the pin installed with no leash slack:
Image
Here's the pin almost pulled all the way out, see how the leash and the strap work together to allow the pin to be removed:
Image
I updated my setup tips page with options for people whose rear pin is hitting the heel rest, here's the new info
8. Having the pins insert from the inside in board mode works for most riders. If your pins hit the heel rests because you have a forward angle on your rear foot there are a few options for you.

A. Switch your right and left bindings. The Spark R&D baseplates and the bent metal highbacks are symmetric, so there's no difference between the right and left feet. The straps are nearly symmetric as well. It might look weird, but it should feel normal.
Image
you can switch your feet back for touring mode so your buckles don't catch on each other.

B. Rather than switch bindings, you can switch just the toe straps:
Image
This version may be a little easier to strap in to than (A) as you can reach the heel buckle a little easier. A disadvantage may be the toe strap buckles hitting each other while in tour mode.

C. You can switch the left and right pins on the bindings so they insert from the outside. The pins can be removed by removing the toe buckles, the screw in there holds the leash on. I suggest girth hitching the leash through one of the unused toe strap attachment holes like so:

pass the leash through the hole:
Image
pass the pin through the loop:
Image
pull tight and you're good to go. Rig the leash so it's underfoot while skinning, that way it won't snag on anything:
Image
D. Rig pins like (C) except without leashes altogether. This option is my least favorite because it is easier to drop a pin in the backcountry, which could ruin a good day of touring.

E. You could also change your stance so the pins work as shipped, if only a minor adjustment is needed.

In other news, I'm now shipping all of my bindings with loctite. Hopefully this gets rid of the disappearing hardware trick.

I had a good tour up Mt. Ellis yesterday with the Fiance and Pip. Pip and I were both on loctited ignitions and didn't have any hardware issues. We ran into lifelinksplit (who doesn't work at lifelink and like me looks like a hippy) and bridgerhippy (who does work at lifelink and doesn't really look like hippy) and their really stoked out friend on his first day on fritchis. Good to see a customer enjoying their new toy lifelinksplit, I'll be looking forward to more of your input as far as the contrast between your hardbooting rig. Have a good one folks!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 6:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 16, 2006 11:35 am
Posts: 151
Will,

Did you anodize your Chinese hooks?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:59 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 10:25 am
Posts: 82
Location: Gunnison, CO
Will,

Got my binders yesterday (thanks for the welcome!) and set up my split while I drank HighLife and watched my Steelers lose (boo). They are slick as shit and I can't wait to get on them. Thanks for being the man. Big pow day today at CB so I rode the lifts.:oops:

My size 12 burton driver X fit in just fine after I maxed out all the adjustments.

Peace.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 8:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2004 10:57 pm
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Location: California
Will,

Why would you recommend running your strap buckles on the inside of your foot? :shock:

This goes against the design of snowboard bindings in general and would result in an uncomfortable ride. You want the buckles of your straps on the outside of your feet so you have a nice smooth strap running on the inside of your foot. That way when you ride and naturally lean your knees inward the bindings (and straps) have a nice even and comfortable flex.

Sure you could run the buckles on the inside but its not something I'd recommend.

Here's my solution and recommendation. :idea:

F. Run the pins on the outside of your binding (with or without a leash).
Done. :D

Image

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:10 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2006 12:16 pm
Posts: 391
Location: Bozeman MT
brg: of course! It's hard not to anodize anything aluminum a silly color when you own an anodizing line. I'm rocking one color on the right side of my board and another on the left, theoretically to reduce head scratching during transitions, and for a little bit of hey look at that.

BSOE: You're the man! I'm so glad you're back in the USA in one piece. Thanks for hanging it out for us in Iraq. Let's figure out a way for us to shred this year.

BCR: Well, how about because it works. I'm glad you're happy with your setup. I prefer to have everyone rocking leashes because losing a pin would suuuuuuuck. I think buckles are placed on the outside because they are easier to work with, but I don't think with modern straps and boots that you could really feel any difference in the ride or flex. Take the taste test and let me know what you think. I'm very utilitarian, and an out of the box thinker, I don't really care what everyone else in the binding world is doing. I think a quick experiment beats hours and hours of armchair engineering.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Thank again everybody, it's been a great kickoff to '08.

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