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 Post subject: Re: Anyone interested in a group buy for Ptex T-nuts?
PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 11:42 am
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Location: Oakland, CA
bigdood wrote:
Like Schralph said, we're pretty close.

Question: how many t-nuts do I need if I want to mount my board w/ the pucks (i.e. I don't want to be stuck on one stance). Assuming it's the 24 that Voile uses on their split, plus the others for the various hooks?


This should be an interesting question for discussion. I chose to forgo use of the universal pucks for the fixed pucks, mainly because I already have them.

Here is how I decided how many t-nuts to get:

tip & tail clips - 0 - keep them as rivets

split hooks - 0 - the existing bolts go all the way through so they are structurally sound and I don't mind the exposed screw heads on the base

binding pucks - 8 - use 2 t-nuts on the *inside* (toward the center axis of the board) for each puck. This is because when on edge, you can essentially ignore forces on the split half of the board that's in the air. On the half that's on edge, the primary stress on each puck is tensile on the screws toward the center axis of the board, because the other two are so close to the fulcrum (outer edge of the puck) that they experience much lower tensile forces. So for the outer screws I'll just use what comes with the kit.

touring brackets - 6 - 3 per bracket, just as done by the standard kit. Plenty of odd shear forces when skinning and falling. I plan to change the pozi screws out for metric though.

climbing wires - 0 - I never understood why Voile designed the climbing wires to use t-nuts - the primary force on the climbing wire mount is normal compressive stress and a little bit of shear stress, but essentially no tensile stress. T-nuts basically help prevent pullout from tensile stress!

That puts me at 14 per splitboard. And then a couple of spares just in case anything (like those climbing wires, hehe) breaks. So I got 16 from monk151. I'm curious to see how others review my logic on this.

PS monk, I totally spaced yesterday and left the envelope on my desk at home so the check didn't go out until today ... :(


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 Post subject: Re: Anyone interested in a group buy for Ptex T-nuts?
PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:37 pm 
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Location: Oakland, CA
Hey monk, your tnuts use an M6 screw right?


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 Post subject: Re: Anyone interested in a group buy for Ptex T-nuts?
PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:45 pm 
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Location: Park City
yup - m6 :thumpsup:


no problem - I'll go ahead and ship the nuts out friday; if bigdood wants some I can go ahead and throw them in with yours... we can work out my beer money later :D

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 Post subject: Re: Anyone interested in a group buy for Ptex T-nuts?
PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 8:51 pm 
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Schralp, I would not even bother with the outer screws that come with the kit after you are done, especially on the rear pucks. I have had zero trouble with mine using only 2 screws per puck, after I inserted mine. Really, the only reason I went with 3 per puck on my fronts was the core damage I repaired after my little core failure (12 + inches!) when I ripped the original screws. If I were to split a new board and insert the pucks, it would be 2 per all round.

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 Post subject: Re: Anyone interested in a group buy for Ptex T-nuts?
PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:30 pm 
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Monk151 wrote:
yup - m6 :thumpsup:


no problem - I'll go ahead and ship the nuts out friday; if bigdood wants some I can go ahead and throw them in with yours... we can work out my beer money later :D


Would love some of your nuts :lol: How many does it take if you want to be able to modify your stance? I don't want to be locked into one stance width/angles and will eventually buy some of the pucks from Voile.


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 Post subject: Re: Anyone interested in a group buy for Ptex T-nuts?
PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 3:35 pm 
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Hi guys. I just happenned to stumble across your forum conversation about exactly what I am looking for. :D I am trying to find 18 Ptex T-nuts for my board. Do any of you have some more that you would like to sell? I would love to rent your countersink tool also if it is available.
Please let me know.
Mucho Thanxo,
Eric


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 Post subject: Re: Anyone interested in a group buy for Ptex T-nuts?
PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:22 pm 
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Location: Oakland, CA
Just a bump about what I found with these:

a) Using the countersink bit it's still pretty tough to get these suckers in place. I dripped some elmers glue in to do waterseal and then I tapped them in with a mallet and tightened with short M6 screws from the top to pull them in. If you use screws that are too long it will spin the insert.

b) The ptex pulled off of them from my skins being removed. I lost 3 caps off the 14 nuts, the others seem to be holding


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 Post subject: Re: Anyone interested in a group buy for Ptex T-nuts?
PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2009 7:00 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2009 9:51 pm
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Location: Eastern Sierra's - Lake Tahoe Basin
I have experienced the same problems as above with the Sun Valley t-nuts on my DIY.

• Getting them set properly was a function of using the drill-tap in one smooth vertical motion. I actually found using a size smaller than the recommended initial pilot hole bit before using the countersink helped.

On my "test board" (scrapper I used for practice) I found that when I drilled the countersink with the recommended size bit the hole for the countersink it allowed it to slip in easier BUT once I started cranking down the t-nuts, they started to spin-out in the holes. So using a tighter hole (hehe) made for a bitter bite on the t-nuts collar splines when inserted and tightened down. I used a large c-clamp to push the t-nuts in one-by-one into the board.

Also adding a bit of epoxy around the hole helped set them in place better and stayed once they cured and cranked down. (Hint: the epoxy bites in and cures real well when you set the board in a hot-box or over a med-temp radiator/heater for the overnight curing process)

• The P-tex covers on the inserts themselves seem to be problematic. Every ride I seem to lose a cover to my skin adhesive and/or a base hit from hitting a rock, stump or a skier's head. It hasn't been too maddening, being lucky enough to come into ownership of a p-tex gun a few years back. But nonetheless I am not too satisfied with having to go into maintenance mode after every ride to get the inserts covered again.

One hint I can give with recovering the t-nut backs with new p-tex is to "rough-up" the smooth faces of the inserts. That seems to be where the problem lies. The factory p-tex glued to the smooth steel insert surface will inherently fail. There is no "tooth" for the glue to grab onto. So by taking a Dremel tool or sharp instrument of some kind and gouging/roughing up the surface, it has allowed the second replacement p-tex layer to hold on and stay.

__ Hope this helps __

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