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The only answer to this debate is to always skin in deep pow

It seems to me that now is a good time to resurrect the shit talking thread we had going a year or so ago, so here goes.

If you split with the straight side in you're retarded, ugly, and I'm humping your girl!

Thank you ale_capone, everything you stated here makes complete sense to me, this is the kind of answer I was hoping for searching where the switching of the halves has its origins.

Reading your post I realized why I feel more comfortable not switching the board halves while traversing. It's because of the sloppy Burton S-interface in hike mode. Actually I figured out I use also my upper leg for support while traversing, but with the curved edge on the lower foot on uphill side (inside) and the amount of play in the interface I can't get absolutely no edge hold on my lower foot on icy or hard surface. I can make a better notch with the upper foot, so with the slop of the interface upper foot with curved edge has equal edge hold than lower foot with straight edge.
Tahnks

I absolutely agree with you on this. I now figured out where the "problem" is (see upper post)

Or, brain science, either!

Straight side, outside. Keeps all the interface stuff outta the way...

And, the soft-booted splitboarder must always walk like a cowboy (or cowgirl).

Walking like a cowboy is the best reason for switching so far!

Straight edges in the inside, to have maximum hold when it's most crucial: during kickturns/switchbacks on steep ascents.

This thread inspired me to try an ascent with the straight edges inside, what a mistake. I use the Karakoram clips and I've never tripped on my gear so many times. Literally took a knee some 10 times over 2500ft. There's no way I'm putting the straight edge inside for the hike ever again.

As for "slipping" or having more hold in tricky parts of the climb, use cramp-ons. I started putting them on when I need the tallest climbing ladder and I can't believe how much better it is. The Mr Chomps are so easy to install and they keep you from sliding backwards no matter what. Think about it, you're not really getting any glide uphill so why not get grip? I watch my touring partners without cramp-ons try to make switchbacks and it's somewhat comical. I had the cramp-ons in my bag for so many tours and really never felt it was "extreme" enough conditions to whip them out. Fact is, when it really gets extreme it's too late and inconvenient to put them on.

Having the sidecut on the inside means you will scratch the tips of the skis a little, but the benefits outweigh the scratches in my book.

It doesn't make sense to have straight edges inside when using the protruding K-Clips, of course...

I've had the identical experience to chimp. K-clips and straight edges inside are a no-go when touring. I think I also caught the tip hook rivet at some point, though it was a while back.

And yes, Mr Chomps are awesome. Boilerplate chunk? Rime ice? Talcum snow on a steep, crusty headwall? No problem.

When I'm schussing the slope down to Gorrona, the inside edges must have the radius. Outside foot initiates the turn, inside foot is your damping and support.

I could have skiing technique way off, but it can help things out when you're trying to cover ground.

"Place more weight on your downhill ski on the inside edge. In that position, on the inside edge of your downhill ski, you are applying more pressure on the side of your big toe. Now, to make a turn, try to move pressure on your downhill ski from your big toe to your little toe at the same time pushing your hand. To do this simply roll your ankles downhill. For example you are going to the right, more weight is going to be on your left leg on the inside edge (side of your big toe) and pushing your right hand. Now roll your ankles from right to the left and changing your pushing hand from right to left. Keep in mind that the pressure has to shift from your big toe to the little toe on the downhill ski and on your uphill ski it has to shift from your little toe to your big toe. These movements have to be done simultaneously."

http://www.youcanski.com/en/instruction/carving.htm

Never thought I'd read about how to carve on "parabolic" skiis.

This would be the only reason I see for straight edge inner. Maybe someone can explain the theory for magna on the innner edge. Nobody from Jones can explain this to me. Someone make sense of this for me please.

REI guy told me it allegedly helps with torsional rigidity, which seems somewhat logical. Others I've talked to say that's more theoretical than factual. Ski performance on your flat edge typically blows anyway so not sure how magne could offset the lack of a radius like the other edge.