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 Post subject: Re: Float - Length vs width vs rocker vs camber...
PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 9:24 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2005 3:32 pm
Posts: 358
Good point, you definitely have enough float going on there. Thats going to be a really loose and fun ride! It might need fins :thumpsup:
I just had a look at my boards, they are up 1/8 on each end of a 24" spread as well


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 Post subject: Re: Float - Length vs width vs rocker vs camber...
PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 3:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 19, 2009 9:16 am
Posts: 497
Location: Salida, Flagstaff
Scooby and Huck - you guys make me want to buy or build a press. Very cool and innovative stuff, both of you. Huck, I like the direction of your thinking in that design--looks like it's be really fun in lower angle pow and trees (on safety days).

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Craig Kelly is my co-pilot
195 Glissade Big Gun
187 Donek Custom Split
181 Venture Storm Solid and Split
173 Rossi Race DIY Swallowtail Split


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 Post subject: Re: Float - Length vs width vs rocker vs camber...
PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 5:32 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2011 10:04 am
Posts: 145
Scooby2 wrote:
Good point, you definitely have enough float going on there. Thats going to be a really loose and fun ride! It might need fins :thumpsup:
I just had a look at my boards, they are up 1/8 on each end of a 24" spread as well


Sounds like we're on the same page! FINS? FINS? Tempting idea! It's SNOWING right now. It may be a board test day tomorrow! :guinness: :bananas:


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 Post subject: Re: Float - Length vs width vs rocker vs camber...
PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 5:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2011 10:04 am
Posts: 145
Taylor wrote:
Scooby and Huck - you guys make me want to buy or build a press. Very cool and innovative stuff, both of you. Huck, I like the direction of your thinking in that design--looks like it's be really fun in lower angle pow and trees (on safety days).


Thanks! You could try vacuum laming a board. Board crafters has some great how to vids. That way you don't have an 800 pound boat anchor in your shop. Theres tons of ways to produce vacuum for cheap. If you have an air compressor you can disconnect the tank and get vac. from the intake.
I vac. to get the capped rails and press at the same time. My equipment is extremely crude compared to many hobbiests but it's the best I can do right now. Pretty fun building a board for $120.00 or so.


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 Post subject: Re: Float - Length vs width vs rocker vs camber...
PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 3:50 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2007 12:05 pm
Posts: 40
Location: Norway
I have an idea stuck my head. My old Dynastar 4807, Burton Fish and Voile Swallow needs to be replaced.
What I want is as much float and speed as possible. But also need at least as good handling around the trees, as on the 4807 and Fish.
I'm only boarding when it's more or less powder or slush. On ice, hard-pack and at work I'm on skis anyway. So ice-grip is not so important, but must be better then on reversed side-cut boards.
Have anyone any ecperience or have an idea how a regular sidecut at around 12-16m or maybe an Clothoid sidecut like Kessler are using, wold work on a deck that is as wide as the wide waist's on reversed sidecut powderfloaters from Ventures, Lib-tech and Fawcett
Or at least as wide as your boot length to avoid boot-out even on the deepest carves.
My thought is that combined with the right amount of rocker, flex and maybe an medium to shallow swallow/fishtail. (Not deeper then on the 4807 to avoid dangerous and annoying hook-up in crust!) It should be possible to have a board that is fun to carve in slushy and soft groomers without booting out. And in the same time have the float I desire.
What do you think?


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 Post subject: Re: Float - Length vs width vs rocker vs camber...
PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 3:50 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2007 12:05 pm
Posts: 40
Location: Norway
I have an idea stuck my head. My old Dynastar 4807, Burton Fish and Voile Swallow needs to be replaced.
What I want is as much float and speed as possible. But also need at least as good handling around the trees, as on the 4807 and Fish.
I'm only boarding when it's more or less powder or slush. On ice, hard-pack and at work I'm on skis anyway. So ice-grip is not so important, but must be better then on reversed side-cut boards.
Have anyone any ecperience or have an idea how a regular sidecut at around 12-16m or maybe an Clothoid sidecut like Kessler are using, wold work on a deck that is as wide as the wide waist's on reversed sidecut powderfloaters from Ventures, Lib-tech and Fawcett
Or at least as wide as your boot length to avoid boot-out even on the deepest carves.
My thought is that combined with the right amount of rocker, flex and maybe an medium to shallow swallow/fishtail. (Not deeper then on the 4807 to avoid dangerous and annoying hook-up in crust!) It should be possible to have a board that is fun to carve in slushy and soft groomers without booting out. And in the same time have the float I desire.
What do you think?


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 Post subject: Re: Float - Length vs width vs rocker vs camber...
PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 9:18 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 19, 2009 9:16 am
Posts: 497
Location: Salida, Flagstaff
As a general rule you want to ride a board with adequate width to avoid boot-out. Donek has a board width calculator on their website. Enter your boot size, type, rear foot stance angle and riding style and it will give you a board width to avoid boot-out. For me, riding 0 deg read foot size 12 soft boot, that's about 27 cm. It goes to 29 with a hard boot.

Board length, width and surface area, shovel shape, taper, stance set back, and nose rocker all affect float. More surface area (width and length) affords more float, lower planing speeds, planing at lower board angles, and thus greater maneuverability at lower speeds in pow (as is often the case riding trees). Taper, or shifting board surface area fore, nose stiffness and nose rocker (early rise) and stance set back all help powder planing, avoid back leg burn and support weight-forward charging without submarining or folding.

For the delicate dance between tree maneuverability and speed stability I suggest you consider a regressive sidecut, one that fades a shorter radius into a longer radius tip to tail. Shorter fore radius allows for quick turn initiation; longer tail radius affords speed stability and provides a predictable platform for slarving. I also suggest erring on the side of taper rather than tail rocker; taper will buy you even more slarving maneuverability without sacrificing speed stability, which I've found endemic to and problematic with many rockered tails.

_________________
Craig Kelly is my co-pilot
195 Glissade Big Gun
187 Donek Custom Split
181 Venture Storm Solid and Split
173 Rossi Race DIY Swallowtail Split


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 Post subject: Re: K2 Panoramic splitboard 2011/2012
PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 9:55 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:53 pm
Posts: 30
Location: Routt County Colorado
KGN wrote:
We should all just be riding skis anyways


touche

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