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 Post subject: P-Tex and T-nuts
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 12:33 pm 
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Location: Park City
Does anybody know where I can pick up the pre-ptexed t-nuts? I called a couple local shops and they're ask crazy prices for them - like $5 apiece :shock: !!! And I'm not making a whole lot of progress with my esoteric google-searches...... There has got to be a better way.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks,
the monk


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 1:37 pm 
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Location: Jackson Hole, WY
if you are talking about the t nut inserts with the white ptex on the t, the board room here in jackson sells them for 2.50 apeice and would probably ship them. i got a few earlier this fall when i was working on my approach ski project. hope this helps.
chris

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 1:40 pm 
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Location: PNW Hood Canal
Monk, I have heard they exist, but never could find any. I made some as a trial by drilling some tiny holes in the flat base of the T nuts so the p-tex that I applied could melt through the holes and have something to "bond" with or hold in place. I then dripped a thin layer on the side of the T nut with the grooves that grip the board core.

I have not replaced any of my bare metal T nuts yet, but when I need to I will use these that I have made. I don't know if the process will really adhere to the metal, but if the p-tex posts that go through the T nut base holds and the bond of p-tex of the base and the disc covering the T nut bond then at least the base will have no exposed metal.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 1:48 pm 
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Location: Park City
ctowles wrote:
if you are talking about the t nut inserts with the white ptex on the t, the board room here in jackson sells them for 2.50 apeice and would probably ship them. i got a few earlier this fall when i was working on my approach ski project. hope this helps.
chris


hey chris - thanks for the reply, and yes the t-nut inserts with the white ptex - exactly what I'm talking about (hopefully 3/4"). The Board Room eh? Much better than $5 apiece - What's your approach ski project?

And mumbles - That sounds a lot more affordable - and worth a try.....it's just those ptexed inserts look so damn clean and good - ya know

thanks guys

do we have $1.50 for ptexed inserts? anyone......anyone...... Bueller......Bueller....... :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 1:56 pm 
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Location: Jackson Hole, WY
the shop is called "the board room", i'm sure its an easy google find. as for the approach skis, they got made, but by the time they were complete we had enough of a base (kinda) to take the split out, so they have yet to be used. they are some old line snowblades with full glued up purple ascension skins and mounted with voile touring brackets and heel lifters. only problem i can see right now is rigging some kind of lightweight binding for them so that you don't need to mount a full snowboard binding on a track to use em (and carry on the way down). i'm hoping for next season to make some DIY full track size voile pucks to mount on my solid rock board so that i can just use my sparks on that and swap them over to my approach skis when there is a need to go up. mabye if i finally get a little time this week being laid up i'll post a few of my diy projects (there are many).
chris

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the quiver:
164 Never Summer Prospector w/ Spark Blazes and LT pins
164 Never Summer Raptor with Burton Diodes
164 Never Summer Titan with Burton C60's
164 Burton Custom X
163 Never Summer T5 (Frankenboard...its ALIVE!)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 2:03 pm 
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Location: PNW Hood Canal
CT,

If you have the touring bracket and can come up with a set of pins and metal sliding track you should be able to create a web strap binding system mounted to that slider plate that would suffice for skinning so long as you are not doing any dangerous ice traverses or downhills. Something along the lines of a MSR snowshoe type of binding system of straps toe, heel and over the foot to keep your boot in contact with the approach ski.

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Mojo 171 / ST 178 / C-Split 165 / DIY Johan 162
Sparks Ignition II's / Mr. Chomps
DC Torch / Lowa Structura EVO AT


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 2:10 pm 
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Location: Jackson Hole, WY
mumbles,
that idea was thought out etc months ago. just never got around to making it happen as its been a cloudly pow covered haze of 2 months since then. i'll probably put more effort into it early next season, but i'm thinking that the diy pucks are the way to go cause that will be the easiest setup to use out on the backcountry and its also probably the lightest. why carry 2 bindings when you can only carry one. this setup would also be compatible with split crampons (assuming they are available from spark by next season) which could be very invaluable in keeping traction on the way up. FWIW, i still have yet to go for a skin on the little mini beasts, but i could see a lack of grip compared to a full size split ski, so crampon compatibility is a big one for me (even though i do not currently own a set of split crampons)
chris

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the quiver:
164 Never Summer Prospector w/ Spark Blazes and LT pins
164 Never Summer Raptor with Burton Diodes
164 Never Summer Titan with Burton C60's
164 Burton Custom X
163 Never Summer T5 (Frankenboard...its ALIVE!)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 2:47 pm 
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Location: PNW Hood Canal
CT,
Great points in that now you have snow, so full split skinning is better than the short approach minis. I also agree that some DIY pucks mouted would make the use of one set of slider plates and bindings a better option with less excess.

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Mumbles...addicted thanks to sb.com
Mojo 171 / ST 178 / C-Split 165 / DIY Johan 162
Sparks Ignition II's / Mr. Chomps
DC Torch / Lowa Structura EVO AT


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 5:38 pm 
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Location: Too far from snow to close to sand
You could always go to At boots and bindings they would work excellent in that application and they work way better w/ crampons

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 1:26 am 
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Location: Bermuda Triangle
Sun Valley Ski Tools is the source.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 3:10 am 
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Another option - Tognar has some stuff that supposedly bonds to metal better than ptex. You can put that stuff on the exposed T-nut metal, then regular ptex on top of that.


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 Post subject: Thanks Fellas
PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 9:15 am 
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Location: Park City
I ended up grabbing a bag of the Ptex capped T-nuts from Sun Valley Ski Tools - they are awesome to deal with!!! I also picked up a roll of metalgrip from tognar (for a little comparative analysis) - I'll keep you posted on my findings.


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 Post subject: Re: P-Tex and T-nuts
PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 6:42 pm 
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Location: Dethbridge, AB
Sorry to drag this thing up from the dead, but I figured it'd be better than starting a new thread about the same thing.

Anyone know where you can get those P-Tex T Nuts other than Sun Valley Ski Tools? Their account sign up page is pretty much geared to ski shops and requires some business information that I don't have... because I'm a person, not a business. Google doesn't seem to be much help.

Or if somebody has 20 or so they'd be willing to part with (for $ of course) and perhaps lend me the countersink bit, that'd even better.


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