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 Post subject: epoxy
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 12:07 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 3:22 pm
Posts: 101
im looking for a good epoxy to glue my board back together. from my understanding i am looking for a slow setting epoxy.

any experience, recommendations.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 8:59 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2004 11:42 am
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Location: California
I used both slow and fast on an edge seperation awhile back and had terrible luck with both. Not to say it won't work in your application but mine never made it through a session.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 9:08 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 1:56 pm
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Location: Jay Peak, VT
The epoxy i use to use in the shop was called Araldite... Sold by Wintersteiger.. I couldn't find it on google... Too tubes... slow setting epoxy. We used a heating plate overnight to help it set properly... Worked on all my skis and boards i've repaired through the years!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 9:47 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 3:22 pm
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bigjay how viscous was the epoxy. i need this stuff to get far into my board. i understand that extra heats can help this (hot plate, hair dryer) any other tricks. MEK help with that or is it only a solvant.

thanks so far guys

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 11:15 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 1:43 pm
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Location: Western Washington
Reliable racing has epoxy to repair delam type stuff, do not remember the name of it. The quick dry epoxies I have used have not done well in this application. Just my $.02 amero devalued.....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 12:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2004 7:22 am
Posts: 255
Location: The Kootenays
fwiw, i've used the lepages "regular epoxy glue" on a cap board to seal cap delams. It worked quite well, never had any issues until i tried to glue down some p-tex base material (turns out epoxy doesn't work with polyethylene).

The 5 minute stuff is no good for our needs...it still requires 24 hours to cure fully (just like the regular stuff) but it's not water resistant.

You might want to try some marine grade stuff...built my first board with "Cold Cure" back in '90...

gary

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 2:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 1:56 pm
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Location: Jay Peak, VT
Camgina wrote:
bigjay how viscous was the epoxy. i need this stuff to get far into my board. i understand that extra heats can help this (hot plate, hair dryer) any other tricks. MEK help with that or is it only a solvant.

thanks so far guys


Pretty viscous... Heavy brownish-gray type of clue... With a flat screwdriver and popsicle sticks, you're able to put it deep in there... don't be affraid to eat up the board with a hairdryer to soften up the material of the board... no overeating...

I've got a rock board that has been repair pretty much everywhere... it's a board that gets slammed on rocks and stumps when we get early snow in October (and Nov) and i desperately want to ride! Never ripped out an edge but the sidewalls cracked and delam in about 4-5 spots from impact... The araldite epoxy stuff is what's keeping the board together!

And stay clear from the 5min stuff... Make sure the epoxy can handle changes in temperature and be water resistant.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 3:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2007 1:12 am
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Location: PNW Hood Canal
I have used a fly rod building epoxy, not the 5 minute type, but a slow curing type that needs to be rotated on the rod overnight with a fan blowing on it. It is a two part epoxy but the label is so crappy that I can't read it. I have used it twice to fix delams on friend's boards. I use a hair dryer to heat the top and bottom (no warmer than when I'm hot waxing the board) then I pry open the delam with wooden mixing sticks (just like the popsicle stick recommendation). After pouring, dripping or injecting the mixed epoxy into the damage I heat the thing up again with a hope of getting any bubbles out (no idea if that works or not). Then I clamp it in place trying to clamp as much of the damaged area and surrounding area as possible. Wipe the excess epoxy that drips out and place atop some wax paper to cure. The curing process should be in a room that has at least a temperature of 50* or warmer, so a cold garage is not best. If you really think that the delam is deep, you can put the board upright so that delam gap is up and then mask the base and topsheet with masking tape to contain any drippings and allow to cure in this vertical position, but I would still recommend clamping and or weighting the area to get a firm bond. After the expoy is fully cured then you can work on sanding away any of the excess if it is sloppy.

I hope your repair goes well.

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 Post subject: epoxy
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 5:28 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 5:17 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Whistler Canada
Check out Industrial Formulators G2 or cold cure they work well


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 7:32 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 8:41 pm
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Tognar has some good stuff:
http://www.tognar.com/surgery_repair_eq ... board.html

The Hysol epoxy, and urethane glue look list good options.


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