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 Post subject: cutting skins
PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:41 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 9:13 am
Posts: 24
hi
I'm waiting for a new burton s-series 162 of this year
The pack includes the voilè skins

Are the skins already shaped for the board?
or have I to cut the skins?
If yes, how to do it?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 8:51 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 6:21 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Fort Collins, CO
They should be ready to go right out of the box :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 9:29 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2004 10:57 pm
Posts: 4958
Location: California
Actually I doubt the skins will be cut for you. Its not hard though and comes with a little tool.

Congrats on the new ride, you'll like it. 8)


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 Post subject: enrysno needs to cut his skins
PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 12:38 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2007 1:12 am
Posts: 828
Location: PNW Hood Canal
enrysno, I'm brand new to split and sometimes some simple things have gone over my head. This "little tool" that is used to cut the skins is merely a plastic letter opener. The kind that is flat plastic with a groove cut into it. It also has a small blade moulded inside the groove at the deepest point. I got my new skins and was looking for some darn tool and then I saw this Voile letter opener and thought it was a promo item like the stickers that were in every box of my order...but alas, it was merely the skin cutting tool.

Now that I knew, I trimmed my skins in about ten seconds, wickedly easy. I guess that is just part of my learning curve from being a boarder with a habit of lugging extra boots and snowshoes. This is my first attempt at splitboarding and I'm really excited. I have been on this site reading like a fiend.

Enjoy

Mumbles


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 11:33 am
Posts: 5
Location: Oxnard
Dragging up this old thread because I just got my first splitter and was about to cut the skins. My question is should I leave a gap between the skin and the edge or let it run to the edge? I've seen pictures of both and was curious which works best?

Thanks in advance.
Chris


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2007 1:12 am
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Location: PNW Hood Canal
First year splitter giving advice...reader beware. I was told that the edge should be exposed allowing edging on metal and not skin material. That is how I have mine trimmed up. I set them dead straight in the center about 1/8" from the edge and then trimmed along the edge of the board. I think this works just fine.

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Mumbles...addicted thanks to sb.com
Mojo 171 / ST 178 / C-Split 165 / DIY Johan 162
Sparks Ignition II's / Mr. Chomps
DC Torch / Lowa Structura EVO AT


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 5:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 1:43 pm
Posts: 439
Location: Western Washington
ceugster wrote:
My question is should I leave a gap between the skin and the edge or let it run to the edge? I've seen pictures of both and was curious which works best?

Thanks in advance.
Chris

Depends, I believe.....deep pow, edge to edge the skins. Hardpack, a bit of edge uncovered helps there. Gotta choose now!

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Find out just what any people will quietly submit to and you have the exact measure of the injustice and wrong which will be imposed on them (Frederick Douglass)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 6:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2006 8:59 am
Posts: 549
Location: Stowe, VT
Loosing that teeny bit of surface are on the skin = no problem.

Loosing the ability to engage your edge on icy stuff = big problem.

Take the skin and lay the straight edge down two edge widths from the edge, and run the cutter down the curved edge. use some pressure to keep the cutting blade as close to the edge as possible. Move the skin over one edge length and it should expose both edges.

Good luck! It's not rocket science, but it's worth it to take your time the first time you do it. Oh, and as soon as you do the skins, then you'll have to mount the pucks, which is probably harder than cutting the skins! :)

Shep


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 6:47 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 11:33 am
Posts: 5
Location: Oxnard
Thanks for the answers! I will leave the 1 edge per side showing, sounds right. I got the pucks mounted first, seems like they are mounted properly. But my front foot slider track is not centered perfect. It's either ok like that and I have to mount the binding centered? Or i need to go back to the drawing board on the puck mount?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:55 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2007 1:12 am
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Location: PNW Hood Canal
The holes in pucks are not centered exactly. If you mount them in a way that the ends are not the full length of the inside of the slider track they will slide fore-aft. I mounted mine all whacked the first time and one was too short (toe to heel) and the other was too long. I was bitching about how good the burton interface was, then that light over my head appeared. I'm a dumbass.

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Mumbles...addicted thanks to sb.com
Mojo 171 / ST 178 / C-Split 165 / DIY Johan 162
Sparks Ignition II's / Mr. Chomps
DC Torch / Lowa Structura EVO AT


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:05 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 11:33 am
Posts: 5
Location: Oxnard
Luckily for noobs like me the Voile has a plastic puck template holder thing so you almost can't put them in too close/too far apart.


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