Any preference on a Do-It-All size? I am leaning toward a 50cm for size weight and I will likely only use it when absolutely necessary.
the one I picked up as a do all, ends at my ankle when the business end is in my hand, at my side. We don't have glaciers here in the NE, but we do have Mt Washington.
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A 'one size fits all' ice axe length is going to be personal preference. The one I go to the most is the 60cm, ends at the top of my ankle same as splitchank. YMMV
Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2005 10:05 am Posts: 1180 Location: Colorado
This really depends on use. Are you going to be doing glacier travel? If you are just using the axe for security climbing steep slopes/couloirs, you can usually use a shorter axe:50-55 cm. because if the slope is steep enough to need an axe, anything longer than this will be awkward to shaft plunge. If you riding something exposed and steep, and you want to ride with an axe for possible self arrest, this length works well (I recommend holding an axe in the rear hand, at the balance point on the shaft for best riding ability). For glacier travel you would want to consider a longer axe, 60-65 cm. usually, to allow for piolet cane and more secure boot axe belays, etc. But I admit to doing a lot of glacier travel with poles, and a short (50 cm) axe within quick reach (holstered). If descending a glacier in a possible crevasse zone, I will have the axe in my hand to allow for quick arrest in the event of a downhill partner falling in a crevasse, otherwise I just make sure my (short) axe is easily accessible. Another advantage to the shorter axe is that it carries on the pack easier, and, of course, weighs a little less.
But I admit to doing a lot of glacier travel with poles, and a short (50 cm) axe within quick reach (holstered).
Personally I want some sort of pick to arrest a crevasse fall at all times. So just Whippet...at least on the moderate stuff on rope teams of 3 or more. For 2-man rope teams I always have out my axe regardless of the slope pitch.
I was leaning toward a smaller/lighter/more portable length, 50-60cm (now more toward 50cm). I believe I would use it more for very steep, sketchy ascents. To gain leverage while climbing and in places where falling or sliding is not an option. I do not foresee any glaciers trips in the near future. Riding with it for self-arrest seems like smart thing, not to mention how bad ass you would look.
Do you always use the wrist straps?
BTW: Av's rule! Even though they aren't so hot lately....
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Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2005 10:05 am Posts: 1180 Location: Colorado
Right on Chris. I especially would always advise that folks learning glacier travel always have an axe in their hand to arrest a crevasse fall. I have a lot of glacier travel experience, and feel I can travel safely with poles in my hands (and an axe holstered) in a lot of situations-but without a lot of experience, I would not advise others to do the same. For climbing steep terrain, and self arresting riding falls in exposed spots, I feel a 50-55 cm axe is fine. If you are expecting to be able to self arrest a fall on your board, you need to practice doing so in a steep area with safe runout. Especially practice the worst case scenario: a sliding fall with the board above your head, on your back. Self arrest can work great, but one needs to practice it, and/or get training in a "snow school" class.
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