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Found a K2 2009 Gyrator that I'm thinking of spliting, but it seems like it might have a layer of honeycomb in it. Anyone split one of these before? I split a K2 Zeppelin and it had a bit of honeycomb in it. Board turned out real good and my buddy says it rides better now as a split. However, the honeycomb layer was thin and only in the middle section of the board. From what I can tell, this board might have it between the tip and tail (main mid section).

Thanks.

-Kef

Kef-

I bought a 2008 gyrator on the the swap forum that had already been split. It rode beautifully and was a lot of fun to ride, however it did not survive..

The three holes for the touring bracket were drilled VERY deep, which was the beginning of the problem. Because of the Gyrators 4" reverse camber, all weight when skinning is placed directly on the middle of the board. We can see where this is going...

I can put up pics, but the board started cracking from the edge to the first touring bracket hole, first to the second, etc. until the day of its death when it cracked all the way across.

That being said, I am still considering manufacturing another Gyrator split (as recent as this morning) and hopefully would avoid this disaster again. I'm still not sure I want to do this, but 50% off through my job may justify another try.

I would only drill t-nuts for two of the three touring bracket holes, and drill them as shallow as possible, but am still not sure that the integrity of this board would be able to handle all of the rider's weight in the middle of the board when skinning. Because the tip and tail of the board are so far off the ground, each step places strain and flexes the board directly underneath the tour bracket.

I can put pics up of the honeycomb and broken half. I believe the honeycomb runs completely through the middle, but does not run the full length of the board. Only 3/4 of the full length, starting in the middle.

-Brett

Hey Brett,

Thanks for the great info. That really helps. Sound like I should save my money then. I was thinking I could pot the t-nuts in with epoxy to help them hold up better with the honeycomb, but it sounds like this is one of those boards that just doesn't make a good splitboard. Just not build to be in two pieces and tour in.

This is what makes this site so great. You Rock!

-Kef

k2 has resolved the super rocker issue, as of the 08-09 season the gyrator is much flatter between the bindings. i think you have the right idea, drill the hole fill with epoxy and then redrill and epoxy in the insert.

How did the old gyrator do as far as actually touring? I can't imagine you get too good of grip with such a short section of your skins making good contact with the snow. It seems like their original cereal bowl rocker would be a pita to break trail with too.

I have the 08 gyrator, but decided not to split it and went with a banana snow mullet. With only the slight rocker in the middle it's done just fine touring.

Brett, Cody here. I am also planning on splitting a gyrator. I have 1 09/10 162. You have already had experience with one, and I was wondering if you had any suggestions or a game plan no make your next one last. I really don't want to see a board as awesome as the gyrator go to waste.

-Cody

I got given a 09 Gyrator.
The thing was as limp as an 83yr ols cock.
Slowest base I'v ever ridden.

Cody,

I would suggest only drilling two holes in the base for the touring bracket, and making them as shallow as possible. You can then use a sheet metal or wood screw for the tip of the touring bracket. Under the touring bracket is really where the stress occurs.

Other than that, breaking trail as little as possible may help the longevity. When breaking trail, the snow pushes the already raised tips even farther up, putting strain in the middle of the board. I would also suggest not riding in ski mode without skins, or riding in ski mode as little as possible really. Anything to keep those tips from flopping around or flexing upwards...

I had the 168, so the 162 should also be a little stronger, since there is less area for the board to flex upwards in the tip and tail.