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 Post subject: P tex patches or Toko base repair powder
PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 4:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2010 2:34 pm
Posts: 13
Hello,

Getting to the end of my split project and wondering about the Ptex patches that come with the Volie kit. It seems I have just enough room to recess the t-nuts in the board and have already taken out quite a bit of material in the base. For me the patchs are still too high on the base of the board. With the added epoxy and patches I'm gonna have to drill even futher down into the base to get everything flush and smooth.

So... I maybe able to drill a very small amount further but as it sits now the top of the t-nut is almost flush with the top of the board. If I go too much deeper the t-nut will be sitting too high on top.

So should I do the p-text patches and sand them down like crazy? Or just give up on the patches and order some of the Toko repair powder? Anyone care to comment on how the powder works and what they would recommend?

Also this board may end-up being a test board for me and I'm already wanting to do another one as my cut is slightly off and the board is a very soft Burton clash 61. I kind of wish I had used a stiffer board but this was what I had for free.

Thanks for the help,
Mouse


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 Post subject: Re: P tex patches or Toko base repair powder
PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 5:41 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2010 2:09 pm
Posts: 330
Location: Colorado
Hey Mouse,

Here what I've found.

I'll start by saying that I'm sure there are lots of ways to do this, and this is just what I've found that works so far.

I've been using the P-tex disks from Voile and so far they seems to be a good option (wish I could get them in more colors than black, but let's not be too picky). I use a forstner bit (wood working bit you can get at Home Depot) to remove material on the base for the t-nuts (really helps to have a drill press for this). What I've found is that most boards have a p-tex base, then a thin fiberglass layer then wood. What I've been doing is slowing drilling into the p-tex and watching for when it hits the fiberglass layer. Once in hits the fiberglass layer go very slow as this is a thin layer. Once I get through the fiberglass layer I stop. So far, this has turned out to be just the right depth for various boards I've done (Lib Tech, Never Summer, K2, Marrow). I want a little bit of the p-tex disk to be raised up above the base of the board so I can file/plane/sand it down to match the existing base.

If you do a dry fit, the p-tex disk will sit at or slightly below the base of the board. No worries, you need a little bit of room for the epoxy. Make sure you sand the t-nuts before you place them as this will help the epoxy adhere to the metal. I have also been using a heat gun to heat up the base and the disks. I've read that this helps to prime plastic so the epoxy can make a better bond.

If you are only doing a few boards, I recommend setting the p-tex disk yourself, then taking the board to a local shop and have them run it through their base sander. Should be able to get them to do this for you for under $15. Worth the money. Maybe they'll even do it for a six of good suds.

I think you will be very happy with this. Just be sure to give the epoxy a few days to cure before you sand down the base so nothing moves on you.

I've experimented with filling the base holes with epoxy, PL construction adhesive and these p-tex disk. I decided I liked the p-tex disks as the take wax and are a little harder base then the adhesive. If you have a black base, when you are done, you may not be able to see where the holes were!

-Kef


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 Post subject: Re: P tex patches or Toko base repair powder
PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 8:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2010 2:34 pm
Posts: 13
Kef;

I must have the thinest board in the world. I'm past the fiberglass and well into the wood feeling like i should go no further. The tnuts with ptex patches are still above the base of the board when placed without epoxy. I will sand the t-nuts down fairly well and see if that helps. I didn't use a drill press and I can see how that would have helped keep things very even when using the paddle bit. Overall it's hard to say but the nuts look as if they are in the base fairly even.

I'll post up when it's complete, Thanks for the reply, mouse


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