It seems to me that using T-nuts to mount the climbing bars to the board are overkill for DIY setups. I was thinking of just using the 5/8" binding screws that old Voile DIY kit had for the rectangle pucks. I think Monk does this, but not sure. I sent him an email, but I believe he is busy moving. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Thanks!
Post subject: Re: Climbing Bar Connection: T-nut or binding screws
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 4:48 pm
Joined: Sat Aug 21, 2010 9:06 pm Posts: 221 Location: Udapimp, Idaho
I've mounted several tele setups and never once considered using a tnut because the heel riser has zero upward forces applied to it. over kill in my mind. I've even mounted a flip up heel lever to lock my tele boot heel in combination with releasable voile 3pins with success as the heel lever would loosen when the toe plate started to release. This was in hexel honeycomb core ski so I was careful fill the the cambers in the core with epoxy. I used to drill a 4th hole in my tele binders when mounting to increase the hold by 33%. Never used a tnut and never had a pullout.
That said snow board cores are thinner, which means 1 less thread into the core but on the heel wire, if you pullout the screws vertically your doing something wrong. I also believe that the two side tnuts on the touring bracket with just a mount screw in the center hole is plenty. Again if you pull two tnuts & the center screw out in tour mode your doing some wrong and the difference a 3rd tnut makes won't save you leg. I've mounted 2 piece hard boot binders on pre-insert snow boards and with 4 screws per piece never had a pullout. That's 8 mount screws per foot any less and I'd figure 2 tnuts per toe & heel was sufficient. Here's a tip for the best retention when using mount screws pick a drill bit with the same diameter as the central shaft of the screw, drill the hole carefully with a stop on the bit. widen the topsheet of the hole with a counter sink to prevent volcanoeing, tap the hole with the screw your going to use then blow any debri out. Then I trim the point of the screw off to were the threads thicken to near full diameter. (may need to start with a longer screw) also warm up the epoxy to thin it so that in soaks into the wood of the core. If you can use at least 1 factory insert per puck only 1or2 more tnut per puck should do the job.
Thanks b0ardski! I like the idea of cutting off the tip to get more threads. I have also been investigating the two t-nut, one screw option for the touring bracket. Looks like Monk does this. I think that guy does some really good work. He seems to do little things that are subtle but a nice touch. I've got a test board that I tried out the screw option last night for the climbing bars. Everything seem really solid, however, what looks good in the garage doesn't always mean it will be good in the BC. This give me a little more confidence that I'm on the right track.