Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:27 pm Posts: 599 Location: South Lake Tahoe
What I have done is to measure and cut everything from the bottom or base of the board. Run some tape from both contact points on tip and tail (widest Points) and one in the middle. Run some tape from the tip to the tail roughly in the middle and make your center marks. When you have these three center marks have a friend help you lay another piece of tape directly on center marks and run a pencil mark down the side of the tape which should be your center. I have found it best to cut with a band saw, but I have also cut them with a jig saw. Measure twice and drink a beer and take a bong rip to relax before you cut that shit in half Hope this helps
_________________ If you cant duck it then fuck it
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 8:29 am Posts: 578 Location: Oregon
I had pretty decent luck with a circular saw with a carbide tipped blade and metal straight edge. A band saw would work great but cost more $$$. I cut with the base up from tail to tip. Make sure to pre-cut the metal edges at the tip and tail with a hacksaw so you don't blow out your edges with the circular saw.
_________________ "There is nothing more practical in the end than the preservation of beauty." - Theodore Roosevelt
I have cut several boards with circular saws. The first one was with a worm drive skilsaw, you will want a guide with this method. The guide can be the metal straight edge, or you can use the carpenters method of making a shooting board. This is two pieces of wood one 3" wide x 8' +/- long the other approximately 9" wide by the same length (plywood works best) glued and screwed together to create a =_____. The bottom of the base of the saw rides on the plywood and the edge of the saw rides against the edge of the plywood. You will want to make a pass on this shooting board with saw to cut to the exact size of the saw(creating a guide that registers exactly to that saw base. Then you mark your center line on the board(minus one half blade width), clamp the guide to the board and cut perfectly centered. This method has the advantage of being foolproof, no math mistakes.
The second board I cut was with a festool rail saw (http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plun ... cular-saws) which is basically a circular saw that rides on an aluminum guide rail (fancy German shit). These saws are great but come with a hefty price tag, I am a contractor so it has paid for itself already.
The important thing is to use a good blade, carbide teeth. Ideally you would want a 40 tooth with a 0* or -5* hook. You can also get carbide blades that will cut through metal that will fit in a circular saw. The metal blade has a negative hook on the teeth as well (http://www.toolmarts.com/pc_12831.html). This blade will cut thru the metal edges as well as the rest of the board. Just take it slow thru the metal.
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 1:08 pm Posts: 378 Location: near munich
the saw is not so importand.... the cut must small and straight .... waterjet is best - but and cabelsaw with a 0,8 mm band doe the same work - is ok. an needs a good craftsman with a slowhand ... not a turkey....
IMPORTAND : Straight milling after filling up the new sidewall s is importand .
the new sidewalls are between the upper - down belt are Pu ore Epoxi resing - any thing else.
after filling up : a long alu riffel and a handmilling ( zb. Elu 96 )machine with a bearing works great .