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 Post subject: Epoxying t-nut holes flush
PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 11:05 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 12, 2008 10:05 pm
Posts: 11
Location: Fort Funbags, CO
I'm just curious if anyone else out there has filled thier t-nut holes with ALL epoxy and no p-tex/metal grip? I just finished my DIY a few weeks ago. When I called my local shop (the Mountain Shop) about filling in the holes they suggested that I just fill the holes entirely with epoxy and don't use any ptex/metal grip. They said that even the best jobs with metal grip eventually pull out. I did what they suggested and just epoxied the entire holes and then hand sanded the epoxy down and waxed over it. I have ridden the board a bunch over the past few weeks and I have to say that I can't tell a difference. I expected it to cause a bunch of drag, but honestly I can't feel the difference. The best part is that I have had zero problems with shit sticking to my skins. The marine epoxy that I used seems pretty bomber, so I don't foresee any problems with epoxy wearing out anytime soon or water getting in. I'm just curious if anyone else has done the same thing and what kind of results you have had?


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 Post subject: Re: Epoxying t-nut holes completely
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 1:21 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2008 5:34 pm
Posts: 13
Location: Maine, Northern Vermont, Park City Utah.
Interesting. I've heard of doing this, one of my friends actually did it. I suppose the durability is dependant on how well you did it and the type of epoxy you use. My friend said his has started to pull out.
I've been trying to source metal grip ptex with no luck lately. So maybe I'll try this route. I've got some really awesome epoxy. Having 24 holes in my base makes riding hardpack really annoying...


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 Post subject: Re: Epoxying t-nut holes completely
PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 1:45 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 23, 2008 1:43 pm
Posts: 311
Location: Mill Creek, WA
My local shop told me the same thing so I let them epoxy them in and then they did a full base grind. It worked fine and I don't notice any drag. It doesn't look as clean as P-Tex but does the job.

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 Post subject: Re: Epoxying t-nut holes completely
PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 12:13 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2008 4:35 pm
Posts: 16
Location: North Vancouver BC
I just finished putting my home split together and I used a two part putty epoxy for the holes in the bottom of the t-nuts. Its actually gas tank repair, just kneed the two putties together until they make one solid color, then jam it in the holes. After it set up nice and hard I sanded them smooth as a babies butt. I think because it worked into the threads of the t-nuts its not going to pull out very easily, but I guess the true test will be when I finally try it out. Hopefully next weekend.


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 Post subject: Re: Epoxying t-nut holes completely
PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 5:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 12:48 pm
Posts: 213
Location: Lumby
i made the mistake of using 5min epoxy - lepage brand in the split syringe, and it has resulted in me pulling epoxy chunks out of my skin glue every time i go out. you may fare better with your marine epoxy, its been recommended before.

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 Post subject: Re: Epoxying t-nut holes completely
PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 8:55 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2004 4:26 pm
Posts: 407
Location: S.F. Bay Area
Yes, Marine Epoxy, or any "slow curing", aka, 4+ hr, longer the better, 2-part epoxy is money. The quick setting, 5-minute stuff is just too brittle. The first time you flex the board the board in the cold the stuff cracks and shatters...

The Marine stuff is good for sidewall repair or sealing the inside edge of a home split job... Almost as good as a ptex sidewall, but not quite the same.. ;)

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 Post subject: Re: Epoxying t-nut holes completely
PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 2:08 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2004 3:45 am
Posts: 124
Location: San Juan Islands, WA
libtechsplit wrote:
i made the mistake of using 5min epoxy - lepage brand in the split syringe, and it has resulted in me pulling epoxy chunks out of my skin glue every time i go out. you may fare better with your marine epoxy, its been recommended before.

I tried this with epoxy and p-tex over it and had the same results, I don't remember what kind of epoxy I used but it didn't work for me and I ended up redoing them.


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 Post subject: Re: Epoxying t-nut holes completely
PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 1:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 12, 2008 10:05 pm
Posts: 11
Location: Fort Funbags, CO
Update: I have ridden my board 20+ times this season and I am pleased to report that it rides awesome and the epoxy shows no signs of wear or pulling out. I also was just checking out Monk's website and it looks like this is how he fills the holes too. His website states that he will "flush epoxy fill on all inserts for a smooth base." If I am reading this correctly, then he does not use p-tex to fill the holes. So I guess epoxying the holes flush is way more common than I thought. Definitely sounds like the way to go.


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 Post subject: Re: Epoxying t-nut holes flush
PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 1:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 19, 2008 5:20 pm
Posts: 12
My wife has now been out splitting on the DIY about 10 days, with lots of skin ripping laps and no failures to the epoxy. I used 2 part marine grade epoxy and gave it 4 days cure before using the board. Waxed and scraped 3 times since, and even the heating of the base to get good wax penetration has not affected the epoxy.


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 Post subject: Re: Epoxying t-nut holes flush
PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:53 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 12:05 pm
Posts: 51
what did you do about the t-nuts that were open/did not have a screw in them?

I built out a board and installed 6 t-nuts per side so it would be adjustable - like a factory board. Didn't think about the fact that I now have to fill a bunch of insert holes with threads going straight through to the top of the board.

Two options under consideration. I have some sheet ptex that I was thinking about cutting out disks that I could -
a) epoxy to the bottom of the t-nut, and then melt ptex cord on to that up to the surface level
b) fill the screw holes with something I can remove (like a screw covered w/vaseline) and then fill the insert holes with epoxy to just under the board surface. Let that cure, and then come back and epoxy a disk of the sheet ptex flush with the the surface.

After reading a bit more I am thinking (b) may be the way to go. Sheet ptex seems to the best material to use on the board based on durability.


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 Post subject: Re: Epoxying t-nut holes flush
PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 4:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:51 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Park City
hey d -

best way I've found is to put a screw in through the top (no vasoline necessary) :thumpsup:

thread a screw in as deep as you will need for the hardware it's going to be securing (otherwise it will bottom out in the epoxy and push it out once it's set-up). the threads of the screw are tight enough that the epoxy won't leak in. and once the epoxy is set up, the screw comes out real easy-like. bing!

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 Post subject: Re: Epoxying t-nut holes flush
PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 7:53 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 12:05 pm
Posts: 51
Thanks Monk

as always, you da man :thatrocks:

hoping to get this thing finished over the weekend. Girlfriend's xmas present, finished just 3 short months late!


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 Post subject: Re: Epoxying t-nut holes flush
PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 11:54 am 
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Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 12:05 pm
Posts: 51
Update - I finished the board 2 weeks ago, and my girlfriend and I took it out for it's inaugural tour on Sunday. Happy to report the flush epoxy worked out great. No need for P-tex

I used 2-part marine grade epoxy (g-flex 650) from west systems. You can pick it up at West Marine supplies if anyone is looking for it.


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