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just got the board back from storage so i thought i'd get it up on here. First things first... I KNOW, ITS HAGGARD!

A Few things i learned

1 - libtechs are not the best candidates. at least the ones that use the "air core" construction. you are very likely to find that there is a void right down the middle of the core, so you dont end up with a nice solid inner edge. (i actually knew what i was getting into regarding this, but the libtech was my only available pow board, so, whaddya do?)

2 - 5 minute epoxy to cover the t nuts is a bad idea! I mentioned this on another thread, that my epoxy covers proceeded to rip out the first time i pulled off my skins, and fill my skinglue with bits of crap Apparently the longer cure stuff is better? i would appreciate a tried and true suggestion, since i now have to recover my tnuts before the season starts...

3- make sure you got your stance right. I set mine another inch back thinking it was a good idea, but i should have just stuck with what i always rode ..

probably other stuff too, but thats it of the top o the head

sorry about the pic quality, its the best i can do

I don't know about filling the t-nuts and all...but I did once discover that even after it's cured the 5 minute stuff doesn't have the same water-resisting properties that the 24 hour stuff does. And if you look closely the final cure takes just as long with the 5 minute as it does with the 24 hour ( at least according to the fine print on the Lepages tubes...)...it's only the initial cure that's any quicker.
gary

Hell, good first effort, and looks rideable

yeah its a learning process like anything. It actually rides better for me now that its cut. this board was always slow to turn because i'm not quite heavy enough for it. Its a 165 and pretty stiff (dont remember the sidecut radius off hand but i bet is a 9 or so). Me being 155lbs i am in its lower weight range for sure, but cutting it has softened it up just enough to make it respond faster...

it doesnt glide the way it used to because of the butchered base, but thanks to some ideas from the forum here i might get it patched up decent for the winter.

Good job on your first split. Making tee nuts look nice is pretty hard on your first try,but the important factor is being waterproof. I actually hate those 5 min epoxies . I've tried different epoxies and found that this plumbers epoxy that i picked up in Canadian tire works well.Don't know how well it will stick to the teenut though as i made my own and ground them flush with the board.

homemade t nuts hey? how did you go about doing that? and then did you use an angle grinder or belt sander or something? I am curious about this idea.. how did you avoid ruining the base in the grinding process? maybe just took it to the shop for a base grind?

to cover these i plan to get some patch material and use a gasket cutter as i read in another thread here. then somehow glue them in place. maybe score the t nuts so the epoxy has something better to hold on to.

A machinst /welder by trade. Basicly took a screw in 10-32 insert and welded a 3/4 inch stainless flange to it. Counterbored the ptex just to the wood core and screwed/ epoxied it in. Took my time and draw filed it flush to the ptex(fancy term for pulling file towards you when its flat)
the stuff i use is goop plumbers weld found in canadian tire.they say it will cure under water and hasnt let me down yet.
My first one turned out ok but it was more of a learning process, definitly will do another board when i have some time.
Since we both live in kelowna might have to get together for a few runs. always looking for partners

ahh tools and the skills to use them - that always helps

i'll have a look at the plumbers weld

turns sound like a good idea - i joined the forum to line up some partners mainly, so i'm definitely down for that. Wont be long now