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 Post subject: homemade split double eject!
PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 5:28 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:56 pm
Posts: 11
Location: lyndonville, vt
So i took my split out for its maiden voyage (took me a whole season to finish the thing).

On the way back down i went off a small drop thought i had it landed, ended up on my back with my feet in the air. I than noticed my feet were no longer attached.

I ripped all 16 screws that mount the nylon tracks down in one swift move.

I havent given up on it I figure just move those screws a few inches back. Maybe get some longer screws? I also need some mroe of those templates?

are longer screws and more templates something voile will give me? Any other suggestions on how to make my split a little stronger. Or are homemade splits just not meant to leave the ground


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 8:15 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2006 8:59 am
Posts: 549
Location: Stowe, VT
A lot of people drill from the back side and mount T-nuts. Someone posted a link to some T-nuts that already had P-Tex glued to the base. Make sure you epoxy the crap out of the holes that are currently in there to keep the core from picking up water.

Shep


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 11:28 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 1:43 pm
Posts: 439
Location: Western Washington
Image

Welcome to your new reality. You will need to epoxy any existing unusable holes, and any topsheet repairs you have to do. Then redrill your puck holes, enlarge from the base for t-nuts, and go for it. Ignore the turned photo, please. You can get new templates from Voile, unless you are cheap like me and save everything! :roll:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 8:07 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2007 1:12 am
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Location: PNW Hood Canal
You can also use the goofy template upside down or make your own with a clear sheet, like a document protector and a protractor. I don't know if voile will GIVE you one, they appear for sale on their parts site.

I have only used my DIY three times, then I bought two factory made splits. Being a bigger rider I'm pretty sure that those little wood screws have a very limited lifespan under my fat ass. I epoxied mine into the board when I drilled, set and installed them, but that too will probably fail under my burden. When/if they go, I'm making my own p-tex covered T nuts or buying some to put them on my next board. (don't tell my wife I'm considering anything called a "next board")

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 4:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:56 pm
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Location: lyndonville, vt
Jon Dahl wrote:

Welcome to your new reality. You will need to epoxy any existing unusable holes, and any topsheet repairs you have to do. Then redrill your puck holes, enlarge from the base for t-nuts, and go for it. Ignore the turned photo, please. You can get new templates from Voile, unless you are cheap like me and save everything! :roll:


what size t nuts and bolts did you/should I use. I definitly have to go this route.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 7:49 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 1:43 pm
Posts: 439
Location: Western Washington
Big depends...All snowboards use m6x1.0 screws. Voile sends 1/4x20 hardware with the split kit, for the touring brackets. I'd use m6 myself, for the pucks, because you can buy them with p-tex attached, from different ski repair sources, such as Reliable Racing, for one. Do a ski repair search, you should be able to come up with something. Mine were done the hard way, I got base repair material, and used a gasket cutter to make mine, then epoxied them in place.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 8:43 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2007 1:12 am
Posts: 828
Location: PNW Hood Canal
At my local ACE hardware store they have a couple of versions of T nuts that take the M6 bolts. I also got bolts there that take a 4mm hex key and have converted all of the bolts in just about every binding set.

Check out ACE, it will be worth the trip. I did not find the same metric T nuts or bolts at my local Home Depot or Lowe's. Other users here recommeded ACE to me, it worked for me.

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Mumbles...addicted thanks to sb.com
Mojo 171 / ST 178 / C-Split 165 / DIY Johan 162
Sparks Ignition II's / Mr. Chomps
DC Torch / Lowa Structura EVO AT


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 3:25 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2008 10:04 pm
Posts: 4
Location: NB
I threw most of those crap ass wood screws away as soon as I opened the kit. Didn't work in the 80's and it don't work now.

Ace hardware should have 10/32 bolts and t-nuts. They work perfect for mounting the pucks. I used 2 t nuts and two wood screws per puck. Metric hardware is not anywhere near as easy to find and sae works just fine. Also, as was mentioned, epoxy any hole that you drill in to your board. Do not use quick cure eopoxy, though, cause it gets brittle.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 4:28 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:56 pm
Posts: 11
Location: lyndonville, vt
ok next question,

I did some reading on some older threads and I thought I heard them say you have to drill out the pucks to accomodate the bolts/t-nuts from the touring bracket.

If so can I keep on drilling through my stripped out holes from the wood screws and put t nuts in all of them?

or would I be better off sealing the old holes getting new templates and moving the stance and only using 2-3 t nuts/puck?

thanks for all the help
adam


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 7:57 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 1:43 pm
Posts: 439
Location: Western Washington
A) No, you do not need to drill out the pucks to use inserts from the base side of the board.
B) I would epoxy any of the ski screws you use again into the board. Do this at the final remounting.
C) I use 3 per front puck, 2 per rear puck. I've found the screws have less of a tendancy to pull on the rear set of pucks. YMMV
D) Only move your pucks back if you feel comfortable with your stance set back further. Again, YMMV
E) 10/32 screws are weaker than 1/4x20, enough to make me feel less comfortable about using them. So, 1/4 inch drill bit through the pucks where you use them will make it easier. Really don't need to reuse ski screws in the other holes, unless you are anal like me, and on mine, I was able to hit two of the original insert holes for the back pucks. Me lucky, but not absolutely needed :D

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Find out just what any people will quietly submit to and you have the exact measure of the injustice and wrong which will be imposed on them (Frederick Douglass)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 6:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:56 pm
Posts: 11
Location: lyndonville, vt
Jon Dahl wrote:
A) No, you do not need to drill out the pucks to use inserts from the base side of the board.
B) I would epoxy any of the ski screws you use again into the board. Do this at the final remounting.
C) I use 3 per front puck, 2 per rear puck. I've found the screws have less of a tendancy to pull on the rear set of pucks. YMMV
D) Only move your pucks back if you feel comfortable with your stance set back further. Again, YMMV
E) 10/32 screws are weaker than 1/4x20, enough to make me feel less comfortable about using them. So, 1/4 inch drill bit through the pucks where you use them will make it easier. Really don't need to reuse ski screws in the other holes, unless you are anal like me, and on mine, I was able to hit two of the original insert holes for the back pucks. Me lucky, but not absolutely needed :D



thanks, been a help


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 Post subject: Re: homemade split double eject!
PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 6:47 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:56 pm
Posts: 11
Location: lyndonville, vt
this board blew up on me at the end of last year. and after a summer of amazing bicycle riding I had to come to terms with the fact that summer was over and I had to fix this thing so I can cope with the cold weather.

I ended up t bolting all 16 holes with normal stainless hardware (it seemed like getting the ptexed ones flush would be really hard) I got from my buddy at fastenal, where they have all sorts of tee nuts and hardware but you have to buy like a hundred of them. all things included my snowboard is cut down the middle and has 41 holes in it, awesome.

I have been riding it a couple times hiking not quite open resorts and after numerous drops (a bunch to flat too) and just general ripping it is still all there(no double ejects yet). some epoxy has pulled out from a couple of the t nuts, but hey its to be expected.

so yeah I just wanted to dig up my thread to say thanks for the help, and I can now say I have a splitboard, a totally trick custom one too.


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