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So after skulking around for a long time, I finally got hold of some UHMW to make some pucks with integrated cants. I've been using Voile's cants for about a year, and the pucks always seemed to slide around on top. This meant pulling out a screwdriver and blah blah blah...
Interestingly i have 4 sets of sliders and they all fit differently! Some are snug and some have a bit of wiggle room. Ah well, that's what the vise is for...

I had to hit up my friendly cabinet maker buddy for a table saw, and so ended up making more than i need.
The pucks have a 5° angle on them and you can cut them to overlap board halves a-la Jogi's method, or cut 'em straight and the Burton contingent can use them like Jack to move to the Voile slider plates.
Being a fruit-booter..er hardbooter, I don't know if they would work with Wills Binders, but they seemed to work with the kids softboot bindings


$40 for a pair, and I'll pay the shipping

if you need more photos, I can do that too...but they're pretty much symetrical

I may be interested in your cants but I have a couple questions that I hope you or someone else can help me out with. I just switched over to hard boots this season and like the new setup for the most part. Great for skinning and still feels surfy in powder. The problem I'm having is on the hardpack, I feel like I have lost a lot of control. I feel very unstable on my turns, especially heelside. I'm wondering if cants would help this, I do feel a lot of pressure on the inside of my calves. I'm also wondering if I need to have a more aggressive stance angle. Right now I'm riding about +20f/+10r.

I really like the idea of not adding extra height with your pucks. I already feel pretty detached from my board with voile's plate binding.
thanks, I hope you can help

The pain/pressure on your calves would be alleviated with Cants. It made a huge difference for me, in that regard.
I run 25*f/15*b as my stance, so I'm not sure changing your angles would help your lack of stability on your heelside.
What sort of boots are you using?
Gary

thanks for the reply, I have scarpa matrix with the power strap removed. There really isn't any pain from the pressure but I can see how it would be a more comfortable position with the cants. It seems with your cants that you would have to permanently set your stance angle, is this true? Have you tested them in the field? I am very interested in them I just need to ponder a few things first.

Had them out the last two weeks. I put in some hex screws rather than the original Voile units, and I've not had any issues. I used to get a bit of movement with the standard puck/cant, and haven't seen any at all with these.

The stance angle is pretty much permanent...though I'm sure if one got creative, you could figure something out...or just take two pair, one for now and one for later


This was going to be my next question...and I don't know what to suggest...other than the cant's of course

You are the Kootenay King, PM sent.

I too have material, but have not had time to fire up the saws and router to get my project going. I've got the money though...

Looks cool, but I would have to cut them and drill the holes to fit my board?

For $40 i want em ready to go!!!

But seriously, i like!

I belive it's important to consider more then canting only.
http://www.alpinecarving.com/binding_setup.html Is a god resource .

The solution for me was when i found a Burton Unicant. If you find 2 it's very easy to try different cant and lift settings. Sadly the dont make them anymore.

I have been trying many different cant and lift settings. Both on my carving, and powder boards. I have ended up using almost only toe and heel lift on my carving boards. And a about 50/50 canting and heel lift on the rear binding only, when using strap bindings.

/Gunnar

nice work .... friendly price :win
the material an work is much more ....



burton

I just got my canted pucks from IntheMountains last night. Of course by this morning I had my DIY Mod completed. I have not taken any photos, but I drilled the pucks so that I could mount them with two screws per half on my mojo and three to four per half for my burton custom split. I made myself a clear template to mark the hole positions at the desired angles, counterpunched them to mark the spots, drilled and countersunk the holes. I took In the Mountain's advice (he solidified what I was thinking) in that I could countersink the holes varying depths in the canted puck material to allow the same length of screw to be used. I had a extra set of button screws 12mm long with a hex key head waiting when the pucks arrived. I also made some slight overlap of the puck halves to see if that locks the board together better.

Now I have an integrated puck with cants that I can use on either of my boards, no need for different setups, baseplates, etc. This also will now reduce the weight on my burton...I'll detail how much when I get it all on the scale.

Thanks inthemountians, you are the man.

Mumbles, would you mind posting some pics. I just got my pucks yesterday but haven't mounted them yet.

Glad you guys got the goods! And I hope they serve you as well as mine have been working for me.
Cheers,
Gary

man, i cant believe more people didnt jump all over this. at least half a dozen people have asked me to make them cants and i keep telling them i am too lazy.

you guys wouldn't want ITM to drill them, because they need to be drilled for your exact stance.