IF you trust the plastic, I would advise the the same as building them is time consuming. If you trust plastic it is easy to create that shape on any table saw or router table.
But personally, I refuse to have plastic between my boots and the board. If one binding fails the other will not, leaving you without that knee. I have had too many plastic parts break at high speeds in years past. I wish I could have found protruded aluminum stock of the same profile as the pucks. but no no luck.
I find the solid plastic stock on Scooby's link a big improvement over the voile pucks that rotate. those things are flimsy. But Aluminum is superior.
_________________ backcountry: Voile Split 173 with Bomber plate bindings Scarpa Spirit AT Boots w/ homemade aluminum pucks at 60&50deg resort: Donek 205 carving board with Bomber TD1 plate bindings Raichle SB423 hard Boots at 70&65deg
Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2005 11:55 am Posts: 12 Location: Fort Collins Colorado USA
Thanks but, with a stance angle as i have (60 to 80 degrees depending on the board) the cant needs to lift the toe in the front and raise the heel in the back. The cants i see on your website and in those photos only work if you have a skater stance near 0 degrees on each foot (90 deg to the board edge). I am glad you make these plates as cant is important. But with heel angles of 60 and 70 they would only force the boot over to one side of the board.
Any ideas how to do this with my rather aggressive stance angles? on a voile system? If it is made of plastic i can always plane off the top few mm and install aluminum plate.
I will be (and have been) showing your products to my friends who ride with angles <30 degrees. thanks for filling that niche.
_________________ backcountry: Voile Split 173 with Bomber plate bindings Scarpa Spirit AT Boots w/ homemade aluminum pucks at 60&50deg resort: Donek 205 carving board with Bomber TD1 plate bindings Raichle SB423 hard Boots at 70&65deg
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