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 Post subject: homemade split: centered stance, oops
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 3:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 11:42 am
Posts: 529
Location: Oakland, CA
When I was making my split a few weeks ago, I had a problem with the binding screw inserts that were already on the board interfering with where I wanted to set up my stance. Not using my brain, I ended up positioning the pucks so that my stance ended up effectively centered.

The board is an older Burton Supermodel 159, and I weigh 130 pounds. I originally thought the size would be good for powder, but once I realized what I had done with my stance ... I bet a lot of your boards are way setback, huh?

Tested the ride at Heavenly and Kirkwood last weekend. I poached a few calf-deep powder turns and sure enough, I had a really hard time keeping my nose up. I had no problems otherwise on the board on powder-packed groomers, though trying to ollie off a soft flabby split tail is a new experience.

Should I:

a) remount the binding pucks, fill the old holes with epoxy - who cares about structural integrity since it's my first home made split?

b) leave the board as-is since it will be good for spring corn and do a better job on another split that will be better for powder?

On a related note, do a lot of you have split quivers at all? If so, what do you do about skins? I'm thinking if I end up get a longer board for powder ideally I'd want to use the same skins. I haven't trimmed them as a result.

EDIT: these are 132mm skins with 78mm tail loops and a stretcher for the 78mm tip loop.


Thanks guys, looking forward to the season!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2007 1:06 pm
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Location: Bellingham, Wa
I would pull the pucks off, fill the holes and remount the pucks back in the correct stance. It's not fun riding a board with an F'ed up stance that could send you into a nose dive at any time. The structural integrity should not be of too much concern, since you just cut the board in half. A few holes that are plugged won't be a big deal. When plugging the holes, clean them up a little bit, warm up some epoxy so that it is less viscous, drip a drop or two in the hole and then pound in a plug. This should fill the hole nicely. After the epoxy has cured, use a razor blade and shave off the top of the plug if it sticks out above the deck surface. Just make sure to remount the pucks so that the screws are at least 1cm away from the previously drilled holes.

Hope this helps!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 12:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 11:42 am
Posts: 529
Location: Oakland, CA
Thanks for the advice climbingjunky ... I actually read you guide for splitting the board and it helped a lot.

Nonetheless I fugged up quite a bit but learned a lot for the next time!

Now, to call Voile and see if I can get extra binding plate stickers ...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:42 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2007 1:12 am
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Location: PNW Hood Canal
SchralphMacchio,

If you can't get a set of stickers from Voile you cna create your own template. It takes some work, but a small piece of plexiglass that is large enough to cover the area of both pucks. Take your removed pucks and affix them with some two sided tape onto the plexiglass so that the sliders still fit across them (with the pins in place). Mark your holes with a marker from the underside of the plexiglass before attempting to remove the pins or slider plates (too much stress may make them shift even with the two sided tape). Mark your centerline of your board. Once the holes and center line are marked go ahead an outline the pucks just for a fast point of reference. Now you can remove the pins and slider plates. Remove your tape and verify that your oulined puck lines, pucks and puck holes are all in line. Then you drill your plexiglass at the location of the holes. This plexiglass template will have the pattern for your plates. You will have to establish your desired angle. If you create this template at ZERO to begin, you can then use any angle measurement tool, angle guide, protractor, whatever you have or can get at a local hardware store. This template is now one that will last for as long as you keep it vice the one time use of the stickers. As your desire for angle changes come, you have a template. As you split more and more boards, you have a template and can move your existing voile kit from board to board. If you buy another kit, keep the template stickers and if you use them don't remove the adhesive back but tape the edges in place until you use your counter punch to mark the holes. Then these stickers will last longer...but not as long as your plexiglass template.

Happy Holidays

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 Post subject: xxx
PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 2:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 1:08 pm
Posts: 378
Location: near munich
your problem is not your stand alone ... your setback is one ... make a taper tail ... cut left and right from the nose 0 mm to the tail 5 mm.
10 mm taper is good .





burton

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