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 Post subject: Homemade Split T-Nut Question
PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 7:33 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 1:29 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Syracuse, NY
Any help from any home splitters would be appreciated.

After drilling 1/4" holes for the T-nuts for the touring bracket I tried to push the T-nut in for a test fit. The cylinder of the T-nut was a lot larger than a 1/4", as a matter of fact when I measured with calipers it was > .29". do I need to hammer these into the board after I countersink for the base part?

Thanks for any advice.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 7:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 10:29 pm
Posts: 339
Location: Reno, NV
I've never done a homemade split (nor a ho-made split... nor a ho-maid split), but...

In general you can buy tee nuts based on the thread size or the barrel (/drill) size. Sounds to me like you have 1/4"-20UNC tee nuts (or perhaps M6), which is the thread size. The barrel would naturally be larger in diameter than the thread inside it - my guess would be .31" or 5/16". I would drill a hole just big enough for a slight press fit, but I would not want to pound them in with a hammer.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:43 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 1:29 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Syracuse, NY
My confusion comes from the fact that the voile instructions told me to use a 1/4" drill bit and they were the ones that provided the hardware.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2004 10:24 pm
Posts: 54
Sounds like the barrel is 3/8" not 1/4"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 10:29 pm
Posts: 339
Location: Reno, NV
mvirdone wrote:
My confusion comes from the fact that the voile instructions told me to use a 1/4" drill bit and they were the ones that provided the hardware.

Yes, that is confusing. Maybe call Voilé. I still don't know if I would pound them in with a hammer. Do the tee nuts have any knurling on the barrel or teeth to retain them? If so then they are meant to be forced into place - maybe with a hammer or press.

There are a few guys who have done homemade splits on this board. I bet they know better than I.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 7:17 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2006 6:48 pm
Posts: 39
Location: Reno
I just got some new Tnuts from Voile. They are a little bigger in diameter than the old style. Probably haven't updated the directions.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 7:26 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 1:29 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Syracuse, NY
SteadyB wrote:
I just got some new Tnuts from Voile. They are a little bigger in diameter than the old style. Probably haven't updated the directions.


That might be the case then, i'll have to call them later on today. I will be sure to post the results up here.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 1:06 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 1:29 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Syracuse, NY
The voile people recommended sticking with the 1/4" hole and using a rubber mallet or shop press to push the t-nuts into the deck


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 1:11 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5
I used a 5/16 drill bit. Works fine, doesnt require pounding, which could damage base.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 1:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 5:12 pm
Posts: 1598
Location: Now Oaktowntastic
I have *not* split my own board, but I had to drill some holes elsewhere (in some bindings) to accomodate T-nuts. I used 5/16" which is the size of the holes in the voile slider plate.

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 Post subject: xxxx
PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 12:22 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 1:08 pm
Posts: 378
Location: near munich
in the orginal voile splitkit are some diferent t nuts 8 for mount the binding on the slider tracks - the are not round no teeth s, 4 x M5 nuts steelness with teeth s. for mounting the climbing bars . 6 x M6 nuts with teeth s for mounting the touring brackeds.
you must take difrent hols in the board for M 5 - 6,3 mm driller,for M6- 7,5mm hole - bracke every corner in the wood - the nuts are round in the edges. mount the nuts with a bolt and a big stell ring from the top of the board .big ring with big contact ground on the top. give a littel bit more presure on the bolt as the orginal bold presure ned - had , in mount modus. it`s importand. wood loast thikness and the base make no concave plan in finish mount the touring brackeds
in the base you must rout a circel with 20 mm Q for M5+6 , amd made a pice of orginal base with Q 19,9 mm base material to the close the hols - close withe PU meelt ore epoxi .

M 4 + M 5 is the german number ore the size .

on a DIY splitboard ( 2 pice board) i never mount the climbingbar with
nuts - only skispax . every big hole with nuts in the board is bad .


i hope - i under stand the problem you talk


burton

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 5:32 am 
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Posts: 620
Location: Montana
Make the hole the right size....epoxy epoxy epoxy --- good, 2 part, marine grade.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 5:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2004 11:09 am
Posts: 26
Location: Cambridge, MA
I got mine in by tapping the T-nuts into the holes a little and then putting a wood block on top and pressing them into the board with bar clamps. Making bigger holes sounds like a good plan.


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