Splitboard.com Forums

Any help from any home splitters would be appreciated.

After drilling 1/4" holes for the T-nuts for the touring bracket I tried to push the T-nut in for a test fit. The cylinder of the T-nut was a lot larger than a 1/4", as a matter of fact when I measured with calipers it was > .29". do I need to hammer these into the board after I countersink for the base part?

Thanks for any advice.

I've never done a homemade split (nor a ho-made split... nor a ho-maid split), but...

In general you can buy tee nuts based on the thread size or the barrel (/drill) size. Sounds to me like you have 1/4"-20UNC tee nuts (or perhaps M6), which is the thread size. The barrel would naturally be larger in diameter than the thread inside it - my guess would be .31" or 5/16". I would drill a hole just big enough for a slight press fit, but I would not want to pound them in with a hammer.

My confusion comes from the fact that the voile instructions told me to use a 1/4" drill bit and they were the ones that provided the hardware.

Sounds like the barrel is 3/8" not 1/4"

Yes, that is confusing. Maybe call Voilé. I still don't know if I would pound them in with a hammer. Do the tee nuts have any knurling on the barrel or teeth to retain them? If so then they are meant to be forced into place - maybe with a hammer or press.

There are a few guys who have done homemade splits on this board. I bet they know better than I.

I just got some new Tnuts from Voile. They are a little bigger in diameter than the old style. Probably haven't updated the directions.

That might be the case then, i'll have to call them later on today. I will be sure to post the results up here.

The voile people recommended sticking with the 1/4" hole and using a rubber mallet or shop press to push the t-nuts into the deck

I used a 5/16 drill bit. Works fine, doesnt require pounding, which could damage base.

I have *not* split my own board, but I had to drill some holes elsewhere (in some bindings) to accomodate T-nuts. I used 5/16" which is the size of the holes in the voile slider plate.

in the orginal voile splitkit are some diferent t nuts 8 for mount the binding on the slider tracks - the are not round no teeth s, 4 x M5 nuts steelness with teeth s. for mounting the climbing bars . 6 x M6 nuts with teeth s for mounting the touring brackeds.
you must take difrent hols in the board for M 5 - 6,3 mm driller,for M6- 7,5mm hole - bracke every corner in the wood - the nuts are round in the edges. mount the nuts with a bolt and a big stell ring from the top of the board .big ring with big contact ground on the top. give a littel bit more presure on the bolt as the orginal bold presure ned - had , in mount modus. it`s importand. wood loast thikness and the base make no concave plan in finish mount the touring brackeds
in the base you must rout a circel with 20 mm Q for M5+6 , amd made a pice of orginal base with Q 19,9 mm base material to the close the hols - close withe PU meelt ore epoxi .

M 4 + M 5 is the german number ore the size .

on a DIY splitboard ( 2 pice board) i never mount the climbingbar with
nuts - only skispax . every big hole with nuts in the board is bad .


i hope - i under stand the problem you talk


burton

Make the hole the right size....epoxy epoxy epoxy --- good, 2 part, marine grade.

I got mine in by tapping the T-nuts into the holes a little and then putting a wood block on top and pressing them into the board with bar clamps. Making bigger holes sounds like a good plan.