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Hi, a question to the folks who have mounted the clicker "bits" directly to the slider plates:
is the slider robust enough to use the countersunk style screws that held the toe and heel bits to the original clicker binding? Or do I need to use washers etc? Adding washers and bigger headed screws would entail grinding down the pucks...and I'd like to avoid that if possible.
Any advice would be appreciated,
Gary

When I did it to mine I just countersunk them as little as possible.

Seemed strong enough for me at 155lbs.

And while on the subject, whats better the older clicker without a hiback or the new with the back? What is a good boot to look for and which should I avoid? Obviously Im looking for a new boot/binding setup

Thanks BCRider!
As the mod is for my wife's board, i don't want to risk the binding breaking up.

P420;
My wife says she prefers the clickers without the highback. she found the highback created pain in her calves. And of course if you want to do the "clicker to slider" mod, you won't be needing those pesky highbacks anyway.

gary

I much prefer the highback on the binding. The highback on the boots just feels way to clunky to me. Is it a problem strapping on crampons?

I've spent about 30+ days instructing/riding everyday hard on the clicker w/ highback on boot. And about 2 seasons splitting/riding backcountry on the highback on the bindings. I'm going back to straps.

I thought the same way, and tried to talk my wife into going with the highback bindings, but she wouldn't hear of it. As for crampons, we've never needed them...
gary

ITM, I just built two pairs of clicker direct mount to the slider plates. There is a version of the K2 clicker plasma that allows you to drill off the tops of all the mounting screws fairly easily. Other versions have a piece of sheet metal that wraps over the tops of the screws and seem to be set with thread locking glue. The cool thing is that these bindings come with thin backing plates that fit under the slider track for what I think is pretty bombproof strength. You do have to buy a countersink preferably the TIN coated, 3/8" wide, 80 degree one from McMaster-Carr on line, and 1/2" length 10/32, 316 stainless screws from them too.
The whole deal for me added 6oz to the slider track and in my opinion are as strong as the plasma binding itself. PM me for photos if you want.