PROLOGUE: OK - so my big experiment was to see how easy it is to make a splitboard. When I first moved to the US I lived out east and as such my taste in snowboards was a little shorter than my current Northern California tastes. I bought a 163 Fastbackback last season and had this Salomon 550 156 just lying around collecting dust & rust. So I decided what the hell lets cut the bastard - so please DON'T GIVE ME CRAP ABOUT SPLITTING SUCH A SHORT ASS BOARD.
So.........setting up for the cut took a while. I measured and re-measured the mid-line of the board about 5 times. Then clamped one end to my home made bench. The cut was made using a 40 tooth 7 1/4" circular saw carbide blade. I clamped the board with the center line pretty close to the end of the bench (about 1/8" out) - plus I made a narrow little support stand for the non clamped side to rest on so it wouldn't twist during the cut. - Oh and as the 550 had wrap around edges I hacksawed through each end and filed the cut wide enough to accommodate the circular saw blade - which on retrospect I would have made a little wider as I blew out the tail edge on one side at the end of the cut (my cut line was off a wee smidge, so I wasn't center on the cut I made - no worries though - that's what epoxy, clamps and a bit of a whack with a hammer are for aye?). Oh, Oh and go fairly fast, I slowed down half way through and got a little bit of a wiggle in the cut.
After reading the splittail dudes post though - I think predrilling the binding mounts using those holes to bolt the board to the table sounds like a pretty grand idea.
After the cut I beveled the cut edge p'tex to a 45 degree angle (just like detuning edges) and rounded off the newly cut corners of the board with a file.
Next step - sealing those bloody edges. As I had read on this and other forums there are a few different ways to seal the edges, so I chose the easiest - Polyurethane spray (NOTE, make sure it says EXTERIOR on the can when you buy it - ahmmm! cough). So a couple of trips to the hardware store and a couple of sprays over a couple of days later, I painted a neat battle gun grey enamel paint mix on the sidewalls to make themlook a little better - let it dry, then gave it a couple more coats of the Polyurethane - the spray goes on real thin so you can give it a few coats and it still shouldn't crack under flex.
The Voile instructions are kinda OK but I got the new kit with the old instructions and was a little confused for a while until I downloaded the new instructions from the Voile website.
There are now 22 freakin holes in my splitboard base!
The Chinese Hooks and tip clips were a piece of cake - but I did hammer one rivet with a little to much rigor and not enough panache Ã¢â‚¬â€œ so it ended up being a little shorter than the plastic clip width Ã¢â‚¬â€œ my quick fix was to shave the clip down a little using a razor blade Ã¢â‚¬â€œ no worries mate! The binding pin that comes with the kit combined with the business end of any hammer works great for getting those rivets to splay out.
The touring mounts really freaked me out Ã¢â‚¬â€œ the counter sinking was all a nutty concept. Ã¢â‚¬â€œput big ass holes in my base, are you crazy? The only down side to this process is to check your center punch holes before you drill. The toe mount template I had was slightly off from the actual toe mount (about 1mm on one side) Ã¢â‚¬â€œ luckily I checked (I also tried to mount them facing the tail the first tme around. NOTE: I can't drink beer and split boards at the same time. With my split kit the Voile instructions don't specify what drill bit size to use for the heel mounts (7/32Ã¢â‚¬Â