Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2006 12:56 pm Posts: 1 Location: Finland
I have made my first split (an old Burton Canyon) with the Voile Split kit .
I have done some testing on resorts and some short hikes with no problems.
Maybe it would be an idea to but some T-nuts on the pucks before they ripp out .
Do you think i have to put T-nuts on all 16 screws or will it be enough with T-nuts under the toe and heel ?
Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 8:41 pm Posts: 1605 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
They are trying to use the factory inserts on the Burton board to avoid the original problem where the pucks were attached with wood screws, and stripped out. To use the factory inserts, you either have to drill new holes in the DIY pucks (sounds like a no-go because the DIY pucks are milled out underneath), use the universal pucks that come on Voile factory splits which you can order individually from Voile (if you can get the stance position/angle you want), or make your own pucks.
Another option is to use the DIY pucks, but try to position them so that at least one screw hole is over an insert. That would be better than using all wood screws. I think bcd had a post on this a while back.
Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 1:43 pm Posts: 441 Location: Western Washington
Hey matti, I would use 2 per puck (inserts) on the front pucks at least. The only time you risk pulling the ski screws is on a wipe out, and you risk some core damage also. Finding some ptex to fix all the holes when you are done is a good idea, but not necessary.
_________________ Find out just what any people will quietly submit to and you have the exact measure of the injustice and wrong which will be imposed on them (Frederick Douglass)
Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:42 am Posts: 94 Location: Northern Utah
Alright Folks! Here it is... We finished our jerry rigged project and it actually turned out pretty good. Put 2 good, long days on the new pucks and they held up well. First ride on them was a small cliff drop to 45 degree chute, so they were broken in quickly. All seemed to go well.
Now we're just hoping they'll hold up for the long haul.
We did everything in our little wood shop with only a few tools. Jack's access to every tool on the planet had me a little worried, but we faked our way through it with what we had... router, drills, clamps, table saw.
The only problem we encountered was one that Jack warned me about. We shaved off just a fraction of an inch too much and there was some slop in the binding. Eric just epoxied a little more UHMW back on and now it fits like a glove. Sortof a ghetto fix it, but it worked. Anyway, here are some pics.
The guys at our local shop told us to cut out the "volcano holes". Pretty sad, huh? We filled everything with waterproof epoxy to prevent more damage.
I lost my tail clip a couple of rides ago... even with locktite on the screws. So, since we were in the shop doing some jerry rigging, I thought I'd give it a go. This is also made out of scrap UHMW and the screws cost about $1.15 at Lowes. A pretty good deal and it seems to work well!
Thanks again to everyone for the great ideas and input. May the powder be deep and the skies be bluebird!
i was suprised by how close the tollerances needed to be, good idea on just glueing some more plastic on instead of starting over. my front binding is a little sloppy, but i dont notice it on the way down.
that home-made tail clip is awsome too!
_________________ JACK
"take it easy, if its easy take it twice..."
Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:42 am Posts: 94 Location: Northern Utah
Thanks, Yo!
It was actually pretty fun making the stuff. We made another set of pucks for my board and will probably be working on a couple more for friends. Now I just hope the UHMW holds up. Nothing like field testing to find out!
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