Splitboard.com Forums

The World's first exclusive splitboard discussion forums






It is currently Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:56 pm

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 24 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: The DIY Split "What would you have done different" Thread
PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 10:48 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:07 pm
Posts: 64
It seems like a lot of people have the same mistakes but instead of quoting I will go through them again.
1. Cutting the Burton 3D inserts with an old blade. The blade got skewed that made a nasty cut.
2. Not drilling down the 3D inserts and hand cutting them made the base become to warm so that it is bulging under the screws good guide can be found herehttp://wildschnee.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=132&Itemid=270
3. The voile pucks are glitching, see earlier in the thread.
4. Not mixing the coating so the first layer there was only wood visible, when mixed it became grey.

Now here is my list of what I was happy with:
1. Splitting, duh
2. Got the dual raisers (2012 kit from Voile.com not any other store that tries to get rid of inventory)
3. Mounting Karakoram clips
4. Using Duramix (can't remember brand) plastic kit instead of Epoxy or P-tex.

All in all the board rides like it used to but aesthetically it looks a little frankenstein and with all the problems with the cut the base is slower.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: The DIY Split "What would you have done different" Thread
PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 12:52 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2012 3:40 pm
Posts: 97
Location: Colorado
I make these inserts using a George Forman grill and a molded press using colored Ptex in my garage. They work great and dont pull out. It's cool to try to match the color of the base and looks much better than epoxy. Its hard to explain the process right now, but i wanted to share my DIY method

Image
Skunk ape fin bottom by travis young 424, on Flickr

Image
Inserts by travis young 424, on Flickr

the trick is to get the inserts themselves red hot and then dip it in the hot Ptex and then press into the mold. That way it bonds well together. I think i have seen someone in europe selling these- same basic idea (Tognar?), but only offered them in White or black.

_________________
Fast and Smooth
Riding since "88"
2013 Venture zepher 165-27W
Phantom Alpha's w TLT5s
DIY 168 Skynk Ape, RC
Lib Tech T.Rice 164.5
Spark R&D Afterburner tesla'


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: The DIY Split "What would you have done different" Thread
PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 2:14 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2010 12:51 pm
Posts: 63
Location: Düsseldorf, Germany
after reading a bit here about loose nose and tail clips, I drilled the holes about 1 - 2 mm further apart than the template shows, never had a problem with the hooks. They are a bit tight but all managable even with gloves on.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: The DIY Split "What would you have done different" Thread
PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 10:33 am 
Offline

Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2013 11:00 am
Posts: 38
I made my second split last night. This is one thing I did different than before and seemed to work better and less chance for error.

The instructions state "drill a 1/8” pilot hole (front hole first), finish with 19/64” bit, follow with a 3/4” wood bit on the bottom of the board to counter sink the T-nuts"

I drilled the 1/8" pilot hole, than used the forstner bit and last I drilled the 19/64". I think it's easier to get your 19/64" hole centered.

Anyone have a good trick for trimming and removing the overflow of epoxy from the bottom of the board? On my last split I used a razor to chip away followed by a hand grinder with sand paper. It seems to work okay but was hoping there is a better way to get a smooth finish and flush to the Ptex.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: The DIY Split "What would you have done different" Thread
PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 2:18 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 1:08 pm
Posts: 378
Location: near munich
easy, bay a snoli insert driller and some snoli inserts, they are coulured mix, and black
6 ore 9 mm high.


Image

Image

bURTON

_________________
life`s too short not to be


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: The DIY Split "What would you have done different" Thread
PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 2:36 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2013 1:45 pm
Posts: 31
Best way I have split a board is with a Festool circular saw on their guide rail system. It's expensive kit so you will need to know a carpenter or joiner who has one. Once you cramp the guide rail to the board, you get a perfectly straight cut. It's works on a plunge action and can adjust in millimetre increments.

_________________
Burton Freebird 162, Spark Blazes
Burton Sherlock 163
Never Summer Raptor 164
Never Summer Snow Trooper 156


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: The DIY Split "What would you have done different" Thread
PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 3:39 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:18 pm
Posts: 590
Location: reno
Berts wrote:
Anyone have a good trick for trimming and removing the overflow of epoxy from the bottom of the board? On my last split I used a razor to chip away followed by a hand grinder with sand paper. It seems to work okay but was hoping there is a better way to get a smooth finish and flush to the Ptex.


First i put a thin coat of cold wax on the board and didn't scrape it. I used a flapper sanding disc on an angle grinder being very careful as these take off material quick. A dremel with a sanding disc might also work. A dynafile would probably be the best tool for precision sanding.

_________________
my name IS mudd...


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: The DIY Split "What would you have done different" Thread
PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 1:46 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2010 12:51 pm
Posts: 63
Location: Düsseldorf, Germany
My first DYIs were Burton boards with 3D inserts. I got all wound up about the middle inserts, that I went the water jet way. For me it was a big bust. It was a first splitting sowboards for the place, and the cut was far from straight or even.

I got the boards doe, but in future I'm only letting circular table saws to any board of mine. If that means removing inserts firt, fine.

The Palmer I had cut on a table turned out perfect, and cost me about 10 bucks.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: The DIY Split "What would you have done different" Thread
PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 4:14 am 
Offline

Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2004 6:10 am
Posts: 8
Location: Cambridge, UK
Berts wrote:
Anyone have a good trick for trimming and removing the overflow of epoxy from the bottom of the board? On my last split I used a razor to chip away followed by a hand grinder with sand paper. It seems to work okay but was hoping there is a better way to get a smooth finish and flush to the Ptex.


A sharp 1" wood chisel, held flat to the board does a decent job.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: The DIY Split "What would you have done different" Thread
PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:48 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2011 5:53 am
Posts: 248
Location: Routt County Co.
AndyC wrote:
Berts wrote:
Anyone have a good trick for trimming and removing the overflow of epoxy from the bottom of the board? On my last split I used a razor to chip away followed by a hand grinder with sand paper. It seems to work okay but was hoping there is a better way to get a smooth finish and flush to the Ptex.


A sharp 1" wood chisel, held flat to the board does a decent job.


I epoxied spacers on a spare trim router and set a flush cut bit to the proper depth to remove epoxy / ptex. Works well, but I still leave it high and let the stone grind flush it up.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: The DIY Split "What would you have done different" Thread
PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 10:05 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 10:03 am
Posts: 42
1. Use a thicker straight edge to guide the circular saw. I used a thin metal straight edge and my saw guide rode up over it and made a sloppy cut for a couple inches around upturn of the nose. Ended up having to fill the void with epoxy.

2. Be more careful with the forstner bits. On one of the base holes, the forstner bit grabbed and pulled twice as deep as I wanted. Able to fill with epoxy but would have preferred the proper depth.

3. Line up the nose clip flush with the board. Not sure what I was thinking but I set it about 1/4" back off the tip. More of an aesthetic issue than functional. Might actually help protect the plastic flip from ice and stuff but I dunno.

4. Line up hardware to check fit after center punching, before drilling. Somehow, the tiny hole that holds the plastic post on the tail clip didn't line up. I'm not sure if my hand moved when I center punched the hole or what but I will have to drill a hole in the correct spot (right next to it) and fill the current one in with epoxy. At least it was just a surface hole and not one that goes through to the base!

_________________
"The mountains are calling and I must go." -John Muir

Excuse me while I powder my face.

Jones Hovercraft DIY Split 156
Never Summer Raptor Solid 159
GNU Riders Choice BTX 154.5 Solid
Burton R. Crumb Stock 154 Solid


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 24 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  





Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group