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Just ordered some to salvage the rest of the season for my wifes skins. Anyone know the process or have any tips that would be helpful when they arrive?

Thanks in advance!

Is the reason you're stripping the glue because there isn't much left? If there is still a thick layer, but it has lost its traction because of debris getting stuck in it or whatever, you don't need to use the glue renew.

Take a paper grocery bag and an iron. Cut out a strip of grocery bag just wider than the skin and maybe a foot long. Lay the skin glue side up. Lay the piece of paper on the skin, and iron the bag until the glue melts. Now pull up the paper with the top layer of glue and debris stuck to it. do this to the entire skin.

Then take some parchment paper and iron over the skin to smooth the glue. Good as new. I've done this to my skins twice, and can do it a few more times before needing the glue renew. works great

Thanks Saign but I have already gone through that process a few times with these skins. The glue is cooked.

I did this to my G3's earlier this season. I found it took a lot more heat than I expected to get the old glue off. Waxing iron cranked to the max, to the point you would ruin a base. Be patient, especially letting the new glue cool on the skins. All in all about a five beer operation. Mine look like shit but they stick. Good luck.

Stole this from turns all year

"We all know what a pain it is to try to re-touch our skin glue, or find a reliable source to renew our skins. Through trial and error I have developed a fairly efficient process, which I’ll share with you here.

I have a multi-purpose heat gun with an attachable scraper nozzle (Wagner model HT1000) with dual temps 750 degrees and 1000 degrees. I lay the skin, glue side up on the workbench, (lined with newspaper) clamped it down by the tip end. You really only have to clamp one end since all of your work should be from tip to tail. Attach the scraper to the heat gun, turn the heat to 1000 degrees (750 also works albeit a bit slower). Be careful with the high temperature as it could delaminate the skin or melt the cloth backing.

Starting at the tip end, strip the glue from tip to tale with the scraper. It does a beautiful job, taking the glue off right down to the fabric backing on the skin (about 5 minute’s maximum for stripping). I then apply a small amount (about three brush fulls) of the Ascension "Gold Label" adhesive for climbing skins, took a heavy duty 3" wide metal putty scraper and spread a very thin layer of the glue down the skin, re-applying a small amount of glue as needed. It is very easy to spread the glue with the scraper at this point, since the skin was is warm.

I strip the other skin while the first skin is drying the 1/2 hour as indicated on the glue directions, then apply a second thin coat of glue on the first skin and so on, until you have at least 3 will dried layers of new glue applied.

Using this method the skins come out beautiful, and stick to the ski very well. If you want to protect the snow side nylon, or mohair knap from picking up glue while you are working, I would suggest using some painter’s (blue) masking tape. The painters masking is low adhesive and will remove easily without leaving any sticky residue on the skin.

Allow yourself about 2 ½ to 3 hours time to complete the job.

Good Luck.

Jeanette”

"Five beer process" Nice,