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Hello! It is a bit confusing my question, I was planing to buy DIY set and use my old bindings, but I am thinking of buy Volile light rail bindings so don't really need DIY pucks and gaskets,
so should I go for Voile Universal Splitboard Hardware for Light Rail instead and buy just hooks and clips, and drill holes for all gear and use t-nuts??
Thanks Ziby

Hey Ziby

Whichever binding you use you'll need the pucks. Standard resort bindings will fix onto the slider plates which inturn slide onto the pucks.
Lightrails will also slide onto the pucks.

If you're looking at a specific splitboard binding, I along with a load of others on here can recommend Rughty's aka Ken Mudd's bindings which now have evolved into Triad bindings. Hella light,strong and well priced. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triad-Splitboard-Bindings-/200752890834?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ebdce03d2

After reading your other posts what you need to decide is whether you're happy with a fixed stance set up(width and angles), in which case
buy the Voile DIY kit, which gives you everything you'll need in one kit.

If you want to be able to adjust your stance width and angles you'll need to buy the Universal Voile kit and get then buy some T-nuts, board clips along with nose/tail clips to make up a complete kit. Slider plates are an option with this kit too depending on your choice of binding.
You'll also need to print off a template of the factory boards insert pattern that the universal kit uses.......
http://www.firstlightsnowboards.com.au/templates.html

I think that's everything covered If not Im sure someone else will chime in.
Failing that use the search button, there's a tonne of info on here in the DIY/Mods section

Cheers

George

Thanks George for clear explain of the options, I am trying to find a solution to combine manufactured bindings and universal pucks I don't mind to drill extra holes, possibility of adjustment is important for me.
Ziby

No worries!

The universal kit is the one for you then.
You'll need to use between six and ten T-nuts per binding, that will give you some width and stance adjustment.
Obviously if you have a fairly static stance width you'll be able to cut down on the number of inserts you'll actually need, maybe six per binding...

It's basically the same hole pattern as on a production split board which sit further out towards the edges past your usual 4x4 or 3D hole pattern
You can see here on this board
http://www.voile-usa.com/SPLTBRDINSTR08.pdf

This is the route I'm going down for my second DIY split thanks to everyone here doing the initial hard work/maths and sharing their knowledge!

This is pretty much exactly what I was looking for. I was kinda bumming on the single stance option of the DIY kit. I tend to change my stance for the snow conditions, and picking just one was causing me anxiety.

But as I researched my options I realized that I can buy the Universal kit + the extra hardware for pretty much the exact same price as the DIY kit. Add a few extra drilled holes (I've already got the drill out, right?) and I also get the option to switch my stance up.

Also picked up both the Tractor skins and Light rails at about 1/2 off, and suddenly I'm out splittin' on the cheap but with a pretty decent set up.

For as many times as I'll be able to use a split, this is ideal. Perhaps if I was in the mountains and could skin more, I'd wait and throw down on the Edison, that system covers a lot of bases.