Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 10:32 am Posts: 507 Location: Rawesome, BC
More or less. The M means ISO Metric thread. The 6 is really the diameter. Then it gets weird, the 6 is followed the pitch which could be x1.25 or 1.5, etc... however if it's the normally used coarse pitch for that diameter it's omitted. So in the case of an M6 the standard coarse pitch is 1, and it's written M6 rather than M6x1, M8 is written M8 rather than M8x1.25, etc... And so really writing M6x9 is incorrect but we do anyways here because M6 is all thats really used in split hardware other than the tip clips and chinese hooks. Never really thought I'd get to use that knowledge... college is paying off.
If you were just wondering if M6, 9mm tnuts were what people were using for DIY, it's what I've used. Hope that helps.
Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 6:51 am Posts: 445 Location: Surfing or Splitboarding Downunder
Richard There are a few different Tnut tooth heights as well. The ones that come with the Voile kit have a gold appearance (nickle treated perhaps) and the tooth height on these is similar to the thread height. This creates an issue as they tend to protrude through ther top sheet. If you dont insert them that far then you will leave wood core exposed as the treaded part is not flush with the top sheet.
I have sourced SS316 tnuts ($$$$) but the tooth height is only 2/3 the thread height. This allows you to have the treads flush with the top sheet and not have the teeth come close to the deck. This makes the boards slightly stronger and the "swiss cheese" perception goes away. I also have Gal plated versions that I use on the touring parts to reduce the build cost if $ are an issue for the customer.